Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Ok i have changed dam near everthing except the wiring harness and crank angle sensor.

Ok i am getting a #2 Code from the ECU. Witch is the NE side of the crank angle sensor

I check the sensor itself and evething was ok with it and check the wiring and it was a little frayed so i fixed the wiring .


The thing that is making me SO PISSED Off is that i can find what the dam problem is, I am getting spark perfect!!!! L1 L2 T1&2 all sparking in the correct order, BUT when you get a #2 Code there sould not be any spark at all. Because the Computer sould not no where the Engine is!!!

I am so tired of tracking this proble it is not even FUNNY.


PLEASE HELP IF YOU HAVE A IDEA.

This is a Double post... I have ask before..

XSTransAm

lol, this is why everyone on this forum trys to warn people about this car.

Do you have a multimeter? if not go get one for 18$, then you can check the wires to the cas on the harness and make sure their are no breaks. Im not sure how to test the cas but the shop manual probably has something.

www.iluvmyrx7.com

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to add that i all ready check the CAS wiring all the way back to the ECU, everthing fine. Also i changed the computer also to make sure

The sensors are within spec on the manual, but still got that code,

Have Cleared this code a few times and it is still there. Just can see why i have spark correctly. i dont think that the fuel injectors are firing right.

so i check the injectors and they ALL work i can hear them clicking

coolvette

my 98 c5 used to throw a lot of false codes,if your car seems to run ok,dont worry about it.

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

i want to hit that hard too

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

the car will not start, it will just will turn over and over, it will pop a few times but never starts, I have GOOD compression on all rotor faces, nothing below 100psi

I am going to make a video on the troubleshooting in the next day or so. I just cant track the problem down, think i am going to pull the fuel injectors and see if they are dirty.

mibad

Been there, done that.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Bump..^

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

you are my hero

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

B.u.m.p..^

Compilez

iTrader: (3)

I totally agree and all with your statement... but what does this have to do with the subject of this thread?

Madmax670

You will eventually get it, be patient, i feel your pain

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

if you have spark then check fuel dellivery. I had a similar prob a lil while back and it turned out that the wires to my original fuel pump had shredded apart.....might as well check since getting into the tank isnt that bad(a couple screws)

clayne

You're going to have to verify connectivity on every single wire in that bundle. It's a well known spot for developing intermittent connections and failures.

Do a search on "CAS wiring".

turbodrx7

iTrader: (43)

check ur fuel filter also, that was mine it just cranked and popped a few times.

rotaomi

Hey Bro Have You Look At The Ignition Amplifier By The Drivers Side On The Engine Compartment I Have Had A Lot Of Those With Problem Or Inspected The Coils You Could Have A Spark But If Not Have The Right Amperage Trust Me I Wont Work,give Me Some More Info On The Concern To See If I Could Help You More ,im An Rx7 Specialist Wanna Know If The Car Starts Up And How Does It Run ? Let Me Know

books

iTrader: (8)

Have you swapped the NE CAS with the G CAS or have you swapped the harness connectors to each of the sensors? Swapping could help verify whether it is in the wiring or the sensor itself. I assume you have cleared the code prior to any testing. I know of one individual whose CAS was dimpled which caused it to fail. Another part to check is the CAS plate.

btw on another car I checked the continuity (wiring) and operation of every solenoid and swapped out the ecu also, everything checked out with engine off

however ,swapping out wire harness cured the problem, I assume the problem only occured while the car was on but not driveable
turned out to be bad...the lack of driveability would onlt exhibit

rotary

how did the problem come about? did your car just shut off one day or were you doing a swap or something.

lennie_hughes

hey what about the thermal senor, my 87 had a bad thermal sensor and wouldn't start, not for sure the fd's have a themal sensor but if it does, you might try chaning it out

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

A LITTLE UPDATE.

Did some MORE checking

here is a little back ground on the car. I bought the car about 4 months ago and it was sitting for a wile, so i oil'ed the motor before i tryed to turn it over, did that and let it sit for a few days. turn it over and it didint start. I check for compression, it was good, then i checked for fuel. No Fuel so i changed the fuel pump, Presto started right up.

It is a 93 Auto, i let it run a little wile to make sure everthing was ok.

I new that i have to change the belts and hoses, did that and ever sence it has been problems. IT would start but sould like it was running on one rotor, then i saw it was not firing on the T1 coil so i found that problem and fixed it by connecting the coils right to the ignitor.

The car will not start, BUT it has sprark,fuel pressure (Cant hear the injectors firing thow),and compression

I was talking to a guy at Rx7.com and he said that if there is a #2 code then the car will not start ( IE. Not have SPARK,or FUEL Injection) But i have Sprak fine.

Still have the code.

I just went out there and pulled off the Neg on the batt. and turn the key on and hit the brake pedal and heald it for 20sec. Then put the neg back on. Then jumped the connection that makes the Check Engine light flash the codes, i didnt even try and crank it, the code is still there, WHAT IS UP WITH THAT.

Like i said i cant hear the fuel injectors firing, but if the coils are firing then the fuel injectors should also be firing.

I think i am going to pull the intake off agian and check the connectors going to the fuel injectors. THe reason for this is that i did a vacuume hose job wile i was working on coil firing problem. so i mayhave messed up the wiring somehow.

The only other thing that i am thinking about doing is going to radio shack and getting some shielded two wire and running new wires to the NE side of the coil. that way i no that there is no problem with the wiring to the CAS.

I have allready changed the Computer, so you can check that off the list. Got GOOD SPARK AND COMPRESSION, so it has to be fuel injector problems now.

Also new NGK Plugs


Anything that you guys can add.

P.S. when a friend of mine gets home i am going to get his video camera and make a quick shot of the car doing some of the trouble shooting that way you can hear everthing also, think it will help out.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

bump^

XSTransAm

how do you know that you have good compression? my engine sounded like it had compression with the plugs out when it was blown to hell, the only way to know for sure is a compression test.

Rx7_Nut13B

iTrader: (1)

Yes the compression is good, Ever face is above 100PSI

XSTransAm

tested with what? how?

compression testing a rotary is a little tricky, i just want to make sure you did it correctly, then the diagnosis can continue

Lawyer

I dont see how doing a compression test on a rotary is tricky....

But to the question at hand.

If it was the NE sensor, I believe you would have no spark at all.
The only real way to test it is with a Scope. Right now my NE sensor has no signal and im not getting any spark. But my G sensor is fine.

The G sensor reads front rotor position for fuel and ignition timing. You did say your front rotor wasnt sparking, so give that a shot. Also see if your wiring is good. Triple check that. See if you have a good ground at the connector and such too.

Hope I helped a bit.