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Got new semi-track pads and speedbleeders...

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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 02:12 AM
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cruiser's Avatar
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Unhappy Got new semi-track pads and speedbleeders...

Yesterday I got both speedbleeders and new semi-track pads.
Started replacing pads and bleeders with speedbleeders from right rear, right left and then right front, I came to front left. Already had everything removed just the bleeder needed removing. Damn... it wouldn't go out. I dont know what's holding it and there is not more hex patteron on it to be able to unscrew it. I'm screwed...

Now I have 3 corners with pads and new bleeders and already bled brakes and car on a jack because of this one bleeder.

Then I tried removing the caliper to take it to a shop so they could take the bleeder out somehow but every nut I wanted to loose on the brake line seems rusted or something - just wont let go and if I will turn a bit harder, I will round another nut.

I really dont know what to do. I tried knocking a bit on it, applied liquid wrench... nothing.

And guess who did my last front pads replacement ? Mazda dealership!
And this exact bleeder didnt have a rubber cap, just some small piece of plastic glue over the top. They must've overtorqued it or something. I dont get it... all others went out ok, but this one wont budge.

I really hate wokring on my FD sometimes...
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 02:36 AM
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Vise Grips?
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 09:27 AM
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Mine were on pretty tight also. Just a quick question: were you using an adjustable wrench?

A big set of vice grips may be the only solution here.

Good luck.

-bill
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 09:46 AM
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you will need to use some vice grips on the speed bleeder or something.

I also experienced a world of pain when trying to remove my front calipers. There is a lock washer on those bolts making them extremely difficult to remove. You need to have some kind of leverage on the wrench - either in the form of a breaker bar or another wrench over the one on the bolt.

If you are not good at *patiently* applying leverage don't do this.
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 01:36 PM
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Vice grips did the job. I first thought that it wont budge, but then it started moving slowly. Already did a test drive and brakes are working and are now properly bled.

I now have 11mmHg of vacuum... cas has been sitting for a month or so. Is that normal or should I start looking for a vacuum leak ?

I boosts normally it seems though.... Weird these cars, lol.
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 08:18 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by cruiser
Vice grips did the job. I first thought that it wont budge, but then it started moving slowly. Already did a test drive and brakes are working and are now properly bled.

I now have 11mmHg of vacuum... cas has been sitting for a month or so. Is that normal or should I start looking for a vacuum leak ?

I boosts normally it seems though.... Weird these cars, lol.
I think 11 is even low even if your motor is ported, and if its not then it is low.
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Old Aug 14, 2004 | 01:30 AM
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Stock port.

Car was sitting for a month, but I did do some work on it in the mean time - found a disconnected hose under UIM and connected it. But that shouldn't decrease vacuum

Maybe I accidentally disconnected another hose. Funny thing is it boosts fine and power level is normal....
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Old Aug 14, 2004 | 05:04 AM
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Turned out that I had a bad connection on my negative terminal of the battery and it caused low idle (around 500rpm) and thus such low vacuum.

Everything is fine now

And I just re-registered it.... so.... its boosting time
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Old Aug 14, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser
Turned out that I had a bad connection on my negative terminal of the battery and it caused low idle (around 500rpm) and thus such low vacuum.

Everything is fine now

And I just re-registered it.... so.... its boosting time
Interesting. I've been having battery connection problems on the pos terminal (connector is twisted and won't tighten properly) and I'm experiencing low idle but good vacuum (18-19inhg) Guess I should bite the bullet and buy new battery terminal cables.
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