Installed my JO rack & pinion. Any questions?
Okay, I've finally got my J.O. rack & pinion kit installed and have driven on it a little bit. My initial impression is that the installation process itself was a major bitch, but most of that was due to the fact the my front end has never been apart and I had to put new lower control arms in before I could proceed. I did have a minor issue with the fit of the rack to the frame, some of the bolt holes didn't line up just perfect, but I was able to make it work. My biggest issue was that when installed, my oil pan was actually touching the new rack (just barely on one corner). I emailed CP racing and they said my engine mounts were most likely sagging and replacing them would fix the problem. I put the new mounts in yesterday and the rack was still touching, so I put a 1/4" spacer under each mount and the problem is solved.
Driving impressions? I love it! They are correct in saying that even before having the car properly aligned it was worlds better than the stock setup. I was a little worried at first that the steering felt a bit lumpy (effort got harder, easier, harder, etc) as the steering wheel was turned due to the design using 2 universal joints, but the more I work the wheel, the easier it gets. I guess the new parts just need to wear in a little. I can't believe how bad the steering was before now that it's so precise now.
Don't aske me about "bump steer" because I'm still not clear on what that is, but I haven't noticed any alarming problems so I maybe that means it's not an issue. You do lose just a little bit of lock to lock movement, but it's only noticed in parking lot manuevers when you're trying to steal a spot.
Overall I would say it's money well spent and I wouldn't dream of going back (you can't anyway since it involves cutting the steering tube!).
Any questions? Fire away.
Driving impressions? I love it! They are correct in saying that even before having the car properly aligned it was worlds better than the stock setup. I was a little worried at first that the steering felt a bit lumpy (effort got harder, easier, harder, etc) as the steering wheel was turned due to the design using 2 universal joints, but the more I work the wheel, the easier it gets. I guess the new parts just need to wear in a little. I can't believe how bad the steering was before now that it's so precise now.
Don't aske me about "bump steer" because I'm still not clear on what that is, but I haven't noticed any alarming problems so I maybe that means it's not an issue. You do lose just a little bit of lock to lock movement, but it's only noticed in parking lot manuevers when you're trying to steal a spot.
Overall I would say it's money well spent and I wouldn't dream of going back (you can't anyway since it involves cutting the steering tube!).
Any questions? Fire away.
So, the thing that made it such a pita was the fact that you were dealing with original bolts etc in the front end and they were difficult to remove? Other than that is wasn't too bad? The one thing I'm a little confused at on the install, is how the steering shaft disconnects from the steering box, is it that giant nut on the firewall side of the box? Also what has to be cut? the shaft itself or that black tube it rides in? I plan on getting this kit sometime in the near future, I can't wait, my steering sucks ***. Thanks for posting about your experience
Yes, it was mostly the fact that all my fasteners were 20 years old that made the installation such a pain, but also, the separation of the two halves of the steering shaft aren't as easy as the instructions make it out to be. The part that has to be cut is the black tube running from the gearbox to the steering wheel that your steering shaft rotates within. I doubt it can be cut while still mounted in the car like the instructions suggest (not properly, anyway). I ended up pulling the whole thing out of the car and cutting on a bench, but that part wasn't very difficult.
Yes, once you remove the huge nut from the gearbox and the other bolts/nuts mounting the gearbox to the body it all separates very easily.
Yes, once you remove the huge nut from the gearbox and the other bolts/nuts mounting the gearbox to the body it all separates very easily.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
You say you lost some of the lock-to-lock... is that because you took the non-GTI rack?
I realize in any normal driving situations you don't use that whole range anyway, but I think I'd go for the GTI verson just so I didn't lose anything. I mean hell, if I'm spending almost 1G american on my damn steering, I might as well go the whole way... Considering the exchange is so high.
It's so wierd.. CP racing is in Canada... I'm in Canada... their prices are in US dollars.. I hate US dollars 'cause they're so bloody expensive!
Jon
I realize in any normal driving situations you don't use that whole range anyway, but I think I'd go for the GTI verson just so I didn't lose anything. I mean hell, if I'm spending almost 1G american on my damn steering, I might as well go the whole way... Considering the exchange is so high.
It's so wierd.. CP racing is in Canada... I'm in Canada... their prices are in US dollars.. I hate US dollars 'cause they're so bloody expensive!
Jon
Originally posted by vipernicus42
You say you lost some of the lock-to-lock... is that because you took the non-GTI rack?
I realize in any normal driving situations you don't use that whole range anyway, but I think I'd go for the GTI verson just so I didn't lose anything. I mean hell, if I'm spending almost 1G american on my damn steering, I might as well go the whole way... Considering the exchange is so high.
It's so wierd.. CP racing is in Canada... I'm in Canada... their prices are in US dollars.. I hate US dollars 'cause they're so bloody expensive!
Jon
You say you lost some of the lock-to-lock... is that because you took the non-GTI rack?
I realize in any normal driving situations you don't use that whole range anyway, but I think I'd go for the GTI verson just so I didn't lose anything. I mean hell, if I'm spending almost 1G american on my damn steering, I might as well go the whole way... Considering the exchange is so high.
It's so wierd.. CP racing is in Canada... I'm in Canada... their prices are in US dollars.. I hate US dollars 'cause they're so bloody expensive!
Jon
How much has to be removed from the steering tube? This will be going on my project car which is currently totally gutted (only suspension and steering remain) so taking the steering column out is no biggie. Also, did you get longer bolts for the control arms? I seem to remember someone mentioning that the addition of the r/p braket put the nuts on there really close to the end of the threads. finally, do you have any pictures of your install? thanks
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Originally posted by vipernicus42
Spending almost 1G american on my damn steering, I might as well go the whole way... Considering the exchange is so high.
It's so wierd.. CP racing is in Canada... I'm in Canada... their prices are in US dollars.. I hate US dollars 'cause they're so bloody expensive!
Jon
Spending almost 1G american on my damn steering, I might as well go the whole way... Considering the exchange is so high.
It's so wierd.. CP racing is in Canada... I'm in Canada... their prices are in US dollars.. I hate US dollars 'cause they're so bloody expensive!
Jon
Have you called or e-mailed them?
You don't pay the exchange... If you contact them, they'll give you a price in CDN$
The website only lists USD because thats how most of the US customers order. That was one of the main reasons they finally got a decent website.
yea i was wondering with all of Vws racing
wouldnt you think you could buy a high ratio rack and have em do that for you?
now that would be sweet
i just purchased (or soon to send a check)
for 13b power steering
wouldnt you think you could buy a high ratio rack and have em do that for you?
now that would be sweet
i just purchased (or soon to send a check)
for 13b power steering
I don't know anything about GTI vs. non-GTI... I just got whatever rack came with the stage 2 kit.
No, I didn't buy longer lowercontrol arm bolts, the stock ones are long enough. I did buy new OE bolts, though.
3 1/2" have to be removed from the steering tube.
No, I didn't buy longer lowercontrol arm bolts, the stock ones are long enough. I did buy new OE bolts, though.
3 1/2" have to be removed from the steering tube.
Yes, the stock box and lower shaft would be okay to reuse, except you'd have to find a way to re-pin the lower shaft into the upper shaft later since this mod requires shearing the original nylon pins.
Originally posted by smnc
Jon,
Have you called or e-mailed them?
You don't pay the exchange... If you contact them, they'll give you a price in CDN$
The website only lists USD because thats how most of the US customers order. That was one of the main reasons they finally got a decent website.
Jon,
Have you called or e-mailed them?
You don't pay the exchange... If you contact them, they'll give you a price in CDN$
The website only lists USD because thats how most of the US customers order. That was one of the main reasons they finally got a decent website.
lmao
Originally posted by smnc
Jon,
Have you called or e-mailed them?
You don't pay the exchange... If you contact them, they'll give you a price in CDN$
The website only lists USD because thats how most of the US customers order. That was one of the main reasons they finally got a decent website.
Jon,
Have you called or e-mailed them?
You don't pay the exchange... If you contact them, they'll give you a price in CDN$
The website only lists USD because thats how most of the US customers order. That was one of the main reasons they finally got a decent website.
lol. I also head of a guy who went there for a full cosmo swap on his 1st gen and left immediately once he saw cp. lmao
Originally posted by Ehron
Always nice to pass along hearsay that may or may not be true. I am sure that won't affect their business at all...
Always nice to pass along hearsay that may or may not be true. I am sure that won't affect their business at all...
I find it humerous because the website looks like a serious shop....but its really in some barn on a dirtroad? It says alot about image my friend...IMAGE is everything.
Originally posted by Maguire
Do you have any pictures of the set up installed? Just curious to see it in a customers car.
Where in indiana are you?
Do you have any pictures of the set up installed? Just curious to see it in a customers car.
Where in indiana are you?
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Originally posted by hondah8er
sorry if you dont find the humour in it! To each there own right? If you call numerous people who dont even know each other saying the same thing hearsay then hey....lol
I find it humerous because the website looks like a serious shop....but its really in some barn on a dirtroad? It says alot about image my friend...IMAGE is everything.
sorry if you dont find the humour in it! To each there own right? If you call numerous people who dont even know each other saying the same thing hearsay then hey....lol
I find it humerous because the website looks like a serious shop....but its really in some barn on a dirtroad? It says alot about image my friend...IMAGE is everything.
As for the dirt road... it is a 200m gravel driveway. The 6000 square ft shop was a body shop at one time not a barn. There is however a barn on site but has nothing to do with CP.
LOL, yea my "shop" is my garage. How do you think I can control my costs? It's the quality of the products that matters. You not gonna have their "barn" on your car.
Image is NOTHING if you cant back it up.
Image is NOTHING if you cant back it up.
Not to jack ASEmaster's thread, but I also did the J.O. Rack and Pinion swap.
The rack and pinion is an improvement over the recipricating ball steering in that it is lighter and more responsive. The weight of the rack & pinion is nice and low rather than high and to the driver side. The old system had freeplay; the rack & pinion is direct. In fact, I can feel every crack, nook, and hole in the road. I can even feel dead animals. It's only one and half turns either side to full lock.
Installation was a pain. There is cutting involved. But the real complaint is that it barely fits. I had to jam it up under the oil pan. It's so jammed in there, the engine doesn't move. It makes my RB torque brace useless. I can't make turns like I used to. It feels like the steering diameter has been reduced. But, I still make U-turns like usual.
I had a chance to autocross my 7 with the conversion. It's a heck of an improvement, but you gotta have quick (and cool) hands.
The rack and pinion is an improvement over the recipricating ball steering in that it is lighter and more responsive. The weight of the rack & pinion is nice and low rather than high and to the driver side. The old system had freeplay; the rack & pinion is direct. In fact, I can feel every crack, nook, and hole in the road. I can even feel dead animals. It's only one and half turns either side to full lock.
Installation was a pain. There is cutting involved. But the real complaint is that it barely fits. I had to jam it up under the oil pan. It's so jammed in there, the engine doesn't move. It makes my RB torque brace useless. I can't make turns like I used to. It feels like the steering diameter has been reduced. But, I still make U-turns like usual.
I had a chance to autocross my 7 with the conversion. It's a heck of an improvement, but you gotta have quick (and cool) hands.
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