I've got a 10ae with a streetported engine that has about 1500 miles on it now. I have a fuel cut off switch by my ignition to deal with flooding problems. I've had the car for about 2 weeks now and haven't had any problems starting it yet because I cut the fuel and let the car die instead of just turning the car off with the key. However, yesterday and today I have had a lot of trouble starting the car. I assumed it was flooded so I would keep the fuel cut switch in the off position, floor the gas pedal and turn it over for about 20 seconds. Then I would turn the fuel cut switch on. It would then start and then idle for about a 2 seconds then die immediately after that. It did this for about 10 minutes. Then I starting playing with the gas pedal while cranking it and it would start up and I could rev it a little for about 2 seconds then it would die again. When I was revving it, trying to keep the rpms up and not let it die, it would backfire pretty loudly everytime I let off the gas for a milisecond. Finally I was able to play with the gas pedal and keep it from dying (major backfiring going on whenever I let off for a milisecond) and after about 4 or 5 seconds of me revving it and it backfiring it started to hold a steady rpm with my foot on the gas. I kept it at about 3k rpms for a few min until it was warmed up and then it idled normally by itself and ran fine. In between episodes of it not starting today, I took the plugs out. They looked very fouled so I went and got some new ones and put them in... this did not help at all. The only mods on the car are: streetport, cheap cone filter, downpipe, and borla mufflers. While driving the car now I get hesitations when I am in high boost, I was assuming this was because of the fuel cut bc it only happened when my boost gauge was at its max (the stock gauge) but might that have something to do with my problems starting? Keep in mind I have not had this problem at all with the car until today and the day before and I did not change anything right before this problem started.

Any ideas?

Thanks everybody,

Tom

 

You blew a hose out.
Check the TID.
Check the stupid hose under the BAC valve.  Clamp this bitch if it doesn't have any clamps.
Check the IC hoses and clamps.



-Ted

 

Well.... the TID is all connected and the IC hoses and clamps are good. I just got the car the other day and I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to TIIs... I didn't see anything that looked like a BAC valve, all of my emmisions stuff is removed, is that one of the things that is removed? If not, where could I find the BAC valve? I looked at the FSM and it was not wear it appeared to be in the picture.

 

I have the exact same problem starting my new rebuild.

It catches and I can rev it for a sec then it dies out even though im pressing on the gas. When its running it seems fine, and when idling, it purrs... but just getting it started is the big problem... im thinking of strapping the throttlle cable open on the curse control unit just so it automatically gets more gas and idles at 1700-2000rpms. I dont know if this would help you but I think i'll give it a try...

 

I think you blew your engine
Check the oil
Check your stupid exhaust clamps, they might be leaking.
Prepare to open your wallet and bend over... again..

 

um what signs show he blew his motor?
I dont think so...

 

yeh definitely not a blown motor..... it runs perfectly all day after it starts....

 

bump?

 

If your still looking for the BAC, here's a site with it.

It's on the passenger side of the UIM.

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/bac.htm

 

yeah its not there.... I guess it was removed along with my emissions junk. I checked the IC pipes and the TID and nothing appears to be leaking..... could it be the place where the TID is cracked and taped up? Maybe I need to put more tape on there?

 

i'm not sure but my car has the same problem. What you need to do is check how much cranking vacuum you have. I noticed because of the high overlap the intake pulses are not as strong to open the airflow meter to activate the fuel pump. Also because your plugs are fouled (im guessing they are wet?) that you may have a injector problem. They may be working but the spray pattern isnt a cone shape. Therefore even if you had fuel entering the engine it is not being atomized properly. Also you may have a some sort of vacuum leak somewhere. It may be a combination or all the problems at once. good luck

 

I don't think its the injectors because once it starts, it runs perfectly fine like there was never a problem.

 

Ok I forgot to put something in my first post on this topic..... After I finally got it started the first time after a lot of trying and doing the same thing over and over it ran fine and then I went out to eat, when I got back in it after eating it started just fine, and I was out of the car about 4 more times that night and never had the problem again. But after sitting overnight and part of the day it had the problem again....

 

yeah it probably only happends when the engine cools completely. It seems like the same problems mine is having but I've been searching the site and I cant find any fixes....

 

yeh same here... i emailed kevin landers, he rebuilt the engine for me so hopefully he'll have some suggestions

 

It's possible that since it's still a "new" rebuild that the apex seals are not sealing yet. It's not uncommon for the engine to act funny until you get 4000 miles on it. Also, check your fuel filter, my dad's car (not an RX7) was acting similarly and it ended up being a clogged fuel filter. $10 fix.

 

yeah i've replaced my fuel filter already.
just to be safe!

 

bump... help!

 

bump! i thought you guys new everything about rx7s?!

 

Are you holding pressure in the fuel rails?

 

no idea, how could i find out

 

Please, we told you what your problem is - you need to do a little investigating on your problem.

WE CAN'T FIX ALL YOUR PROBLEMS FOR YOU.

If you can't figure it out, take it to a shop that can and PAY THEM.




-Ted

 

Sorry man it was just a joke to catch some rotary guru's attention.....

turns out it was the water thermosensor. the male connector ends snapped off in the female connector ends.

 

Thats the one beneath the alternator.

 

right?