This is a 87 TII that was a race car. I am turning back into a street/strip/autox car.

They had it all hacked up so I am trying to tighten it back up. I would like as little clutter in the engine compartment as I can get away with. Here is what I have.

88 ECU and engine harness
HKS F-Con
HKS EVC
HKS catback
down pipe
TO4 compressor and housing
FMIC
Throttle body mod
89-91 fuel rails
ported wastegate
removed twin scroll
removed charcoal canister
removed bac
removed a/c
removed acv
removed omp
removed air pump
removed split air pipe
manual steering rack

So I am trying to get all my vacum lines and solenoid actuators lined out.

Twin scroll actuator solenoid valve - Do I need it?

Air bypass solenoid valve - Do I need it?

EGR valve - Do I need it?

I want this car to idle. So I need to know if I am going to have to put stuff back on or what? I am trying to get the engine back and started this week.
I read somewhere that someone had to put a couple things back on after the throttlebody mod to get his car to idle.

Thanks for any input.

 

If you dont have to worry about emmissions, it should idle fine.

Most of that stuff only cuases idle problems

 

I seem to have a lot of open vacum lines. I am trying to figure out if I close them off or what.

 

Well, if you dont have the solinoids and the valves are blocked off, you sure just cap all the open vac lines, or they will cuase a bad idle and such

 

Does anyone have a little more specific suggestions?

 

BUMP

 

Specifics? OK! The purpose of the Twin Scroll Solenoid valve was to redirect the exhaust in the stock manifold to the center of the exhaust turbine on the stock turbo to get it to spool faster. If your HKS manifold has no such actuator, you don't need that. Cap of the vacuum line to the solenoid.

Air Bypass Solenoid Valve? Well, if you had not done the throttle body mod, you wouldn't need it. The reason for its existence is to idle up a cold engine to about 3000rpm to warm up the "cats". I know, I know, what "cats"? However, when the throttle body mod has been done, all the linkage for Fast Idle on a cold engine is gone. So, leaving this valve working helps, because you will be able to start a cold engine and then keep it running with a "manual fast idle" - i.e. your right foot - until the engine warms up enough for normal idle.

EGR valve is only used for emissions. Even if you left it working, it would never be on at idle anyway (if it is, you get rough idle/stalling). If you still have the EGR valve and it's corresponding solenoid valve hooked up, all you need to do is unplug the electrical connector to the solenoid valve! No vacuum line capping is necessary. However, if the solenoid valve is gone, you will need to cap that vacuum line also.

Lemme know if you need more help.
Irv, Keith's dad

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!