The Turbo II i am looking at has that problem. It took us about 15 mins to get it started. It ran fine after we got it started but I dont wanna buy it and be on a date and have to pop the hood to start it. How do you fix this to where it will crank without a prob?

 

It really depends on what you had to do to start it. Was it not cranking or was it more of an ignition problem?

 

Oops sorry missed the title there before I replied.
Still depends on what had to be done to start it.
Could be plugs,wires that kind of simple stuff. But when rotaries get worn they tend to flood alot, that's what mine did before the engine failed.

 

you could smell gas alot and it was very strong. Is this a major problem?

 

You either need to install a fuel cut off switch, get the injectors cleaned, or rebuild the motor. This is a sign of a higher mileage motor. It is very common in FC's from 86-88. A fuel cut off switch will eliminate the having to pull the EGI fuse to get it to start when hot.

 

The motor has 87,000 miles

 

Mine did this in the winter. I upgraded my spark plugs this summer and it hasn't done it since. The best way to do it:
Under the dash pull out the fuel pump relay. Its black and boxy located on the drives side. If it floods just pull it out and then crank the motor. If will start for a few seconds and die (no more fuel) then put it back in and crank it again, should start right up. I became some what good at this and could do it in 15 seconds or so. My cars compression is fine and the engine is strong, but the car is 16 years old and the injectors do leak some. Also check out Mazda Trix they have something that will keep the fuel from leaking down in the first place. I don't think its expensive or hard to install, again not a permanent solution but works none the less.