i have a pfc running rich that came from a car that was running 14psi on it, and i am running under 10 psi... i raced last night and my boost never passed 10psi unlikely that it was the pfc... i have no idea what could of caused this... anyways, i finish racing, i drive about 4 miles to cool down everything seems fine. i park the car and notice a bad idle.. ignore it and shut the motor off.. when i get in the car to go home the idle is awfully rough, i pull out of the parking lot feeling like the car is going to shut off.. i get to the 1st light and the car is stumbling between 500 - 800 rpm, vacum is stumbling all over the place 5, 10, 12, 8, i hold the the gas a little to make the car stay at 1,000 rpm and the whole car shakes like a bitch. i drive it home slowly and i feel this roughness in the exhaust sound. When i get home i look for popped off vacum lines.. none that i can see, i look at my boost sensor... the hose is fine. the motor is brand new with about 12,000 miles on it new turbos.
WHAT THE HELL HAPPENED?

I HAVE A LOT OF LOVE FOR MY 7 BUT I THINK IF ITS A BLOWN SEAL..THEN THIS IS THE END ITS GOING FOR SALE. IM NOT PUTTING IN ANOTHER REBUILD SO IT CAN BREAK AGAIN IN A FEW MONTHS.

 

Likely because you did not have the PFC tuned to your specific car. It's not just how much boost you run, but timing/specific maps/etc. It's plug n play, up to the point you can put it in and putt around - but when you are on the ragged edge (racing), that's when you need it professionally tuned.

This is true of ALL ecus (except the rechipped ecus, which you can only have setup to roughly match your mods - cannot be as accurate as true programable ecus)

Sorry to hear about it, hope everything works out.

 

You should have put a LS1 in there after the first one blew.

 

sounds like theres your answer,
my friend blew his motor on his VW golf, it was chipped, and they say the chip was the problem.

so its not like its only FD's that this happens to.
his motor was a piston engine, and not even turbo'd.

basically if your messing around with racing and modifications. you cant just do a "slap it on there" with your engine management

 

sounds like a blown seal but dont jump to conclusions. get a compression test first before you sell it!!

 

You did check the ye ole MAP sensor right?

 

Yes....

 

Sorry. I had a hard time reading his post at 7:30 in the morning.

 

I feel your pain, and i am sorry to hear about the misfortune

Shaun

 

Hey thats my line. I would bet money that its your MAP sensor hose that came off. Its not a big Deal. Just do a Search.

Symtoms are black smoke, fuel smell rough idle or wont idle etc.

 

How do you know you were running rich?

Apparently, the default PFC maps are leaner than stock.

 

The PFC could be tuned for larger injectors. Thinks of it this way, a larger injector (1600cc) at 50% duty cycle will give you 800cc flow, but with the stock 850s, you'll only get 425. The fuel map is basically a matrix consisting of injector duty cycles at given rpm and boost level.
So, if the PFC was in fact tuned for larger injectors and you slap it into a car with stock injectors, well you get the picture. But, do a compression test before jumping off the bridge.

 

Isnt it also possible to blow an engine if you have it too rich aswell??

 

Maybe you already checked this, but take a peak at your pressure sensor vacuum line. What you're describing sounds similar. If that isn't off check around for other leaks. Things tend to pop off under pressure.

Oh, did you win the race?

 

Preassure sensor = MAP sensor

 

Here's some info posted a while back about running too much fuel:

 

Damn guys, don't you read the posts? He said he checked the MAP sensor hose, and about 5 people come on and say to check the map sensor.

That sucks if your motor is blown... but you really need to do a compression test. It seems like at least 3 people (including myself) have blown their engines in the past week.

 

WELL I CHECKED THE BOOST SENSOR, AND THE HOSE IS CONNECTED I RESET THE PFC, I CHECKED SOME FUSES, EVERYTHING GOOD... I WENT FOR A COMPRESSION CHECK.. 90 ON THE 1ST ROTOR, 30 ON THE 2ND ROTOR... =( I DONT KNOW WHAT IM GOING TO DO, IM YOUNG AND I STILL GO TO SCHOOL AND I DONT HAVE A JOB AS OF NOW.

 

 

Well, first thing is to find the caps lock key.

Next, decide what you want. Do you want to keep the car? Do you still owe money on the car or is it paid off?

If you don't owe any money on the car, get a part-time job and then apply for a small loan (at your age, you'll probably need a co-signer). You can use the loan to get the car back on the road. However, if you want to keep the car on the road, get the PFC tuned or remove it.

If you don't want to mess with it anymore, put it on the market "as is" and see what you can get.

 

found the caps lock but whatever, I have been through this once before and I've had my fun with the car. Its going to be 2 years since i first bought it. Unfortunately I do not have the money to maintain it there fore she has to go. I am also going to sell the Power FC if anyone is interested with no commander.

 

FWIW, the PFC base map is very aggressive on timing.

 

That is one of the most uneducated posts I have ever heard on this forum, ever.

 

*sigh*

I'll be one of the first people to point out the flaws of the rotary engine (I'm a rotary enthusiast, not brainwashed), but it's inane comments like these makes me wonder.

It's detonation that kills rotaries (along with overheating), not how much hp it makes. A properly tuned rotary will last a heck longer then one that hasn't. A 100hp piston engine can detonate just like a 400hp rotary - but a rotary is not as tolerent as a piston engine to it.

Has nothing to do with hp. 'Empirical evidence'? So where is your 'empirical evidence' that suggests large hp kills rotaries?

 

oh cmon, you have to admit that a rotary is way more fragile than a piston engine. i see more fd's at the local rotary shops getting rebuilds than i see on the road. the fact that you have to be tuned to perfection, suggests that the rotary is very weak against detonation. look how much you have to baby it just to get decent reliable hp. you gotta get a stand-alone, you gotta change your oil all the time, gotta change your fuel filter frequently, gotta change your coolant frequently, etc. you see guys w/ supras w/ 500 rwhp on pump gas and they just totally abuse the car w/o a second thought. there are very few other street cars that use as many stand-alone ecu's as fd's. there are drag supras w/ over 800rwhp that just have piggy back fuel management. the fact is you can be tuned to absolute perfection and you can still crack an apex seal. our motors are ******* fragile, it's a fact that rotary owners, especially fd owners have to live with. no matter how hard you try to make yourself believe that the rotary is just as durable as anything else out there it's not gonna change reality. go to any other car's forums and see how many threads they have about a blown motor.