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Switched to synthetic Mobil 1 15w-50.......

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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 03:41 PM
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Switched to synthetic Mobil 1 15w-50.......

Well just letting you all know that I'am going to switch in about an hour. Hope the rotary gods forgive me. Read so much on this topic and I hope it works out. Also Since I have an R2 I'am holding a lot of dirty oil in the coolers and such so I'am flushing it with castrol, draining it, then putting in the "evil oil." Keep you posted if anybody cares.

Also after 110k miles I'am gutting the cat too. Along with my mods. As long as I don't have an intake on it, I'am sure no bad will come of this.
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 04:24 PM
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15W50 Mobile1 is what I have used the last couple oil changes. I didn't flush it when I first went to synthetic so my next change the oil still looked dirty (As you said, old oil in the coolers). The second change now and my oil looked clean, that was after about 4000 miles (2k of it on a road trip)
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 05:46 PM
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OK finished and seems to run fine(maybe a little smoother but who knows). OK everyone should flush their oil at least say every 6 months or a year, especially if you have an R1/R2. I put the new oil in. Ran it for like 5 mins and dumped it. Looked like ****. So I'am glad I did that.
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 06:39 PM
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Is there no way to drain the coolers easier? Like, I dunno, taking off the inlet hose?
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 07:16 PM
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There is a drain hole on the cooler. However, if you torque the drain plug on the cooler too much, you can strip it and be in deep doo doo. Therefore, just flush it if you want it to be cleaned up.
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 07:23 PM
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I'm also running synthetic
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 07:31 PM
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'atta boy!
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 08:18 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by djantlive
There is a drain hole on the cooler. However, if you torque the drain plug on the cooler too much, you can strip it and be in deep doo doo. Therefore, just flush it if you want it to be cleaned up. [/QUOTE
Makes perfect sense to me.
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 08:23 PM
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From: TX
Its very troublesome for every time you have to change your oil you have to go unscrew 2 oil coolers which are a bitch to get to. You really infact don't have to every oil change. Just every now and then flush it with oil. Just 8 more bucks every time you do it.
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 08:36 PM
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From: CA
HOW ARE YOU USING MOBILE 1?

How does this work? I thought you needed to use normal OIL???? HOW ARE YOU DOING THIS? Anyone with the scientific side???? Doesnt the rotary need to "use" oil as it runs?? i am confused!!!! -Dre

93
n1 catback
hks downpipe
koni suspension
dual frict clutch/ light flywheel
275x35xr18 wheels
short shifter
Power FC
Upgraded twin turbos ported/coated
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 08:41 PM
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From: TX
Please don't use this thread as a minerl vs synthetic. I made my decision based on facts that you can SEARCH for.

SEARCH oil and I gaurantee you will have enough threads to read to keep you busy for a month.
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 08:47 PM
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From: near Wichita, Kansas
what????

You mean the synthetic vs. mineral has been debated BEFORE?????

just kidding......

I have been using the semi-synthetic blends on occasion, to compare to the benchmark I set with mineral.
I like using Valvoline DuraBlend, personally.
In fact I use a quart of pure synthetic along with 3 quarts of semi, and about a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil every time I change the oil these days.
No problems at all.
I do notice a much more consistant oil pressure reading.
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 08:57 PM
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From: Pooler, GA.
Any bodie know why the check ENG light is coming on when im in 5th gear (after) im at a conctent speed?
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Old Jul 27, 2002 | 09:07 PM
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From: Queens, NY
Originally posted by sbarky
Any bodie know why the check ENG light is coming on when im in 5th gear (after) im at a conctent speed?
Your probably going to want to start a new thread about this here in the 3rd gen section since it has nothing to do with the topic of synthetic oils. Here's a hint though, do a search here in the 3rd gen section on check engine light codes and you should find some good info on how to get the ECU to flash the error code and what the code means.
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Old Jul 28, 2002 | 10:00 AM
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Synthetic oils do everything that fossil oils do, except synthetics do it better and longer.
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Old Jul 28, 2002 | 05:43 PM
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i wouldn't recommend such a wide viscosity range of oil (15W-50) because those types of oils get coked in the turbo bearings easier and sooner. the smaller the viscosity range the better as far as your turbos are concerned.
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Old Jul 28, 2002 | 05:50 PM
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Well being synthetic it's very hard to "cook". Syn 15w-50 or min. 20w-50 is how I see it.
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Old Jul 28, 2002 | 09:39 PM
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From: All Over
I've been running Mobile1 10W-30 (cooler weather) or 15W50 (warmer weather) in my FD since I got it in Feb of this year. Immediatly it revved smoother and ran cooler when I switched.

I would never go back.

K
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Old Jul 28, 2002 | 10:29 PM
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I just stick to 20W50 non-synthetic oil and change it and the filter every 4k miles and never had a problem other than the usual extra quart every 2k miles
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