Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

And I'm too dumb to figure it out!!! I have been playing around with this mechanical pressure gauge and I'm trying to figure out how its going to work before I actually get around to installing it. They show on the diagram how the flexible tube and a thread hex nut that fits over it and then the ferrule goes on, then you tighten it up to the back of the gauge.



Here is my question: How come when I do it like this the flexibe line still pulls out of the gauge really easy? I've just tightened it down with my hand so does it tighten up and crush the ferrule when you put a wrench or socket on it? If so, I'm guessing that it is a one time deal then right? In other words, If I screw up the lines I have to guy back and buy more of the little ferrules??

Finally, I'm obviously going to have to hook in somewhere with one of these fittings when I hook up the gauge. Where would everyone recommend that I do this? I've read that you can tap the banjo bolt on the back of the beehive?? Or can I get a metric adapter and just screw in somewhere else? I'm not real keen on trying to take off the 23mm banjo bolt and then try to drill straight through it with a hand drill, cause it won't work when I try and tap it then...

I'd really just like to know how you guys would recommend hooking it up. Thanks all!

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11802



Oil Pressure and Temperature Adapter 1980-82 (12A) & 1984-92 (13B)

The Oil Pressure and Temperature Adapter allows easy installation of these sender units for most popular gauges (1/8-inch female pipe for oil pressure and 3/8-inch female pipe for oil temperature). It will accommodate both mechanical or electrical senders. The adapter mounts immediately below the oil filter assembly and includes all necessary O-rings. Gauges, senders, and adapter nuts are not included. The normal oil pressure in a stock Mazda rotary is approximately 71 psi above 3,000 RPM, (110 psi above 3,000 RPM in the 1993-95 RX-7) and should never drop below 15 psi at idle (use a 0 to 125 psi gauge). Normal oil temperature varies quite a bit depending on the operating conditions, but usually stabilizes between 140F and 200F. If the temperature exceeds 210F, reduce the load on the engine immediately or shut it off. Continued operation above 210F may damage the engine.

Note: This adapter is not available for 1993-95 RX-7s or 1983-85 12A RX-7s equipped with oil-to-water coolers. (This 12A cooler is is a small "radiator" shaped unit positoned directly under the the oil filter.)

jorx81@aol.com

iTrader: (6)

You could spend $100 to install your $20-$40 guage OR:

Use the stock location.
Go to junkyard or take the sending unit you have now since you won't need it, cut the engine fitting off, go to lowes and get a steel fitting that is the same size thread of the aftermaket sender. Then take to a welder
(exhaust shop, fab shop) it will cost less than 10.00.

Of course make sure the stock pressure sending unit fitting is steel, if it's brass or aluminum get the respective metal counterpart and take to somone qualified to weld/solder/braze. Still won't cost much.

Tighten the nylon tube in place with a wrench, should crimp in, you can just cut 1/2 " off the end and re-install.

FB II

ok, what about an electric oil pressure gauge? like the stock one. i have an autometer. i tried running it off the stock sending unit, but a no go. they provide you with a sending unit, but i dunno if it will fit. magnets!



edit: i know i brought back an old post.

deeman111

ok ive used a guage that looks like that, with the same fittings etc. With the pipe coming out.. you need to flare the end so it bends back over the nipple, then when you tighjten the nut it will push the nipple in, squeeze the flared out pipe and make it so it wont come out.

Secondly, location. On my 7 ive got a hole drilled and tapped into the bolt on the rear end plate where the oil hose is. Its the bolt with the big hole in the middle... you know the one. Well yeah my guage connects to a hole in the midle of the face of the bolt. Ive never had any problems, but i do suggest to get some sort of protection over the pipe. It melts easily if it touches something really hot (its fine with oil though) Ive got a metal spring just a bit bigger than the pipe that covers it the whole way.

Its all good, just make sure you dont have any leaks and youll be fine.

-James

P.S. if your still confused ill take some pics for you

Rx7carl

Magnets?

If its 1/8 npt thread (which I think most are) ,then you should have no trouble putting it in the stock location.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

just unscrew the stock sender (brass mushroom) and use one of the adapters that came with the oil pressure gauge.

voila, no need to buy anything else.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Make sure the plastic tube doesn't move and is seated in the fitting on the gauge. Have the ferrule like you've got it but push it further up the tube to make sure the nut "grabs" it. Hand tightening is one thing. Tightening with a wrench will crush the ferrule against the gauge's base fitting onto the plastic tube for the seal. What's permanent is the location of the ferrule on the tube. You'll still be able to untighten and take off the nut to remove the gauge if need be.

FB II

i dont have a mechanical oil pressure gauge like the one originally posted. hahaha, mine is setup like the stock unit. all i need is a wire to come from the sender to my gauge. no ferrule's or tubes. it's all electrical. FBDrifter, i guess i'll try swapping the sending units. how do i take it off? just grab and unscrew?

mwatson184

What is the thread size on your sending unit? Things get tricky with metric pipe vs npt, you might need an adapter of some sort.

off topic....sounds like you are getting pretty close on the turbo setup. What carb are you going to end up using? When is everything going to be done. Mine should be finished in under 3 weeks.