Did turbo diag.. when engine is hot runs terribly and still lack of boost.

[pauli311]

So I ran through the turbo diagnostics... my check valves check out.. but I still cant get more than 4psi to the turbo system to move the actuator.. i just replaced ALL 1" hoses around the turbo area/intake and the regular hoses are about a year old and all nylon ziptie'd off. My one way valves hold vacuum with no leakage.. my hoses are brand spanking new with all new SCREW clamps.. not the factory ones.. So in reality I cannot do the full turbo diagnostic because I can't get enough boost to actuate the actuator to pick up the second turbo. Can an exhaust leak cause this? I hear a little more noise when I'm driving next to a concrete wall on the interstate or idling at a traffic light. The car gets hot and idle still bounces.. I'm wondering if when it heats up and expands if I have a seal breaking somewhere... I've tried spraying carb cleaner and still can't find my leak.. (I think it is a leak). I've checked every hose I can get to on the left side of the (when facing the front of the car--intake side) UIM... checked my Y pipes just like it said.. I am at a loss.. should I take off the UIM and go from there? Car struggles to hold an idle and sees 11-12 inhg of vacuum when "idling" and is between 300-750 rpms. When car is cooler it will hold 15-16 in hg of vacuum at approx 1500 rpms (160-175F) Has died a couple times at 210F pulling into my driveway which is slightly uphill. Save me before I sell the engine and LS1 it!

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[dgeesaman]

Originally Posted by pauli311

but I still cant get more than 4psi to the turbo system to move the actuator..

What does this mean? Are you referring to the KOKO test? If so, when you rev the engine in neutral then 4psi is normal. You can also do the KOKO test after driving the car and making boost on the road. The tanks should still be charged.

If you're talking about the std. boost pattern test, please be more specific. Is that 4psi until 4500rpm, then 0psi above?

My one way valves hold vacuum with no leakage.. my hoses are brand spanking new with all new SCREW clamps.. not the factory ones..

Make sure the check valves are pointing the correct direction. See the diagram on www.davidgeesaman.com if you're not sure.

So in reality I cannot do the full turbo diagnostic because I can't get enough boost to actuate the actuator to pick up the second turbo.

Can an exhaust leak cause this? I hear a little more noise when I'm driving next to a concrete wall on the interstate or idling at a traffic light.

The car gets hot and idle still bounces.. I'm wondering if when it heats up and expands if I have a seal breaking somewhere... I've tried spraying carb cleaner and still can't find my leak.. (I think it is a leak).

Idle is another issue entirely. It seems to me that you need to do the idle adjustment procedure and the TPS adjustment too. I think both procedures are linked in the FAQ.

I've checked every hose I can get to on the left side of the (when facing the front of the car--intake side) UIM... checked my Y pipes just like it said..

I am at a loss.. should I take off the UIM and go from there?

Car struggles to hold an idle and sees 11-12 inhg of vacuum when "idling" and is between 300-750 rpms.

When car is cooler it will hold 15-16 in hg of vacuum at approx 1500 rpms (160-175F)

Has died a couple times at 210F pulling into my driveway which is slightly uphill.

Save me before I sell the engine and LS1 it!