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1988 TII
Newly rebuilt massive streetport
Rebuilt stock turbo
2.5" Racing Beat downpipe, 2.5" midpipe to single SS muffler
CAI
Turbo XS BOV
3 row Koyo radiator
FD 120 amp alternator w/ dual-belt pulley
HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer
No air pump or accessories
No rat's nest
sub-zero system removed
BAC was disconnected and blocked off except for the air pipe in front of the turbo
fuel cut defenser
Starting up, she doesn't idle...will not. I have to get her up to about 100* before she'll even try to hold an idle on her own. I set the idle to 1100rpm...that helped.
When you're driving, there's periodic stumbles at gradual accelleration and and steady driving.
Going to WOT results in a bog then a slow climb in rpm...at about 4000rpm or so it smooths out but it's nowhere near as fast to rev as my experience tells me RX-7's should.
I've checked for vacuum leaks, didn't find any. I do know that my injectors leak...there's caked grime around the injectors themselves and after the car has warmed up and shut down, you either have to do the deflood proceedure or wait for her to cool off.
Any suggestions?
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1981 Suzuki GS750E...K&N pods, full Kerker, 10mm wires, 520 conversion, GS500 rear wheel, modified China-shocks, full FZR600 front end, 1979 tank, SS lines, and some other crap.
1996 BMW 328i...K&N, Remus catback...investigating 13B-Turbo swap.
from the couple people ive seen with turbo xs bov's they seem to have some problems with em, maybe you should look into a different one? Im in no way sayingthey are bad (ive never owned one). Sorry i cant help with the adjusting, but at least its a start?
About the twin-scroll; on a s4 turbo, half of the exaust is 'blocked' by a little door that opens at like 2800 RPM's (I think). It's controlled by an actuator ran off of vac pressure. If the twin-scroll ISN'T hooked up the car will be a little lazy until the boost finally builds... If you're not sure if it's hooked up etc. it's definitely worth looking into. When it's hooked up correctly, the low-end response is a lot better.
About the twin-scroll; on a s4 turbo, half of the exaust is 'blocked' by a little door that opens at like 2800 RPM's (I think). It's controlled by an actuator ran off of vac pressure. If the twin-scroll ISN'T hooked up the car will be a little lazy until the boost finally builds... If you're not sure if it's hooked up etc. it's definitely worth looking into. When it's hooked up correctly, the low-end response is a lot better.
I'm sure it's gone but I'm not quite sure I know what you're talking about. Lazy to boost would just be slow throttle response, basically...this is violent thrittle response. Jerky and lethargic the whole way. She builds boost like nothing else...full and holding just oer 3000rpm, and instant to build if I touch the throttle.
On the s4 turbo's, one of the exhaust 'runners' is smaller than the other. This is covered by a small 'flapper door' (to help spool-up). At a certain RPM/vac. pressure the door is opened by a little actuator (like the WG).
If the 'runner' isn't ported out (to match, for example the s5 turbo), you won't be getting full spoolup as early (although max boost etc. is uneffected).
I'd compare it to having your 5th and 6th ports disconnected on an N/A.
alright...I'm going to wire me up a couple of LED's when I get home and set the TPS. I haven't found a good diagram of the plug and terminals I'm supposed to use...any help with that?
check the leading coil my car did the same thing when that went, almost felt like a blown motor. If not that maybe AFM oh and like what was said above, check twin scroll
Those are terrible compression numbers even for a fresh rebuild with a "massive" port.
It should increase some with a proper break-in but you will be lucky to see 90-95 which is still weak.
It sounds like you need to check a few different things.
Water thermosensor - green sensor on the back of the water pump housing- if it is running rich
AFM (common failure item) & turbo inlet duct- for cracks, also very common failure area
Intake air temp sensor can also cause it to start very hard and have a bad idle.
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Those are terrible compression numbers even for a fresh rebuild with a "massive" port.
It should increase some with a proper break-in but you will be lucky to see 90-95 which is still weak.
It sounds like you need to check a few different things.
Water thermosensor - green sensor on the back of the water pump housing- if it is running rich
AFM (common failure item) & turbo inlet duct- for cracks, also very common failure area
Intake air temp sensor can also cause it to start very hard and have a bad idle.
The manual says 85lbs is spec on compression. The motor should already be "broken in".
I've checked the intake plumbing for leaks and I don't know how to check the AFM out. I'll look at the thermo sensor, though, and the intake air sensor.
even 62psi on both rotors at 300rpm. This is by just bolting the guage up and let it pump air to it's max. Levels off between the 50 and 75 marks. Plus the ambient 14.6lbs or whatever....<80psi...
85 lbs is not the spec on a rotary engine, 8.5 bar which equals 125psi is the spec. Below 90psi we tell people to start saving for a rebuild.
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PH: (574) 594-2035 Email: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. for engine rebuild quotes
Last night I fed her about 16oz of water and then about 12 of barryman's EFI cleaner and she really drove a LOT better, but still nowhere near as powerful as I'd expect a turbo with a large streetport to be. At least now she feels faster than my Bimmer...but not by much.
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