mach.80

iTrader: (2)

Oh by the way my A/C belt is a separate belt all by itself

30mpgfc

Is your compressor on the passenger side of the motor?

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

Yes. Its the F150 3.7

30mpgfc

The FWD version has the water pump inside the front case, AC & alt on a single belt system drivers side.

30mpgfc

Good news I just found out, you're gon a hate me. 2013 Ford edge(motor I have) comes with hydraulic (mustang & f150is elec.) Power steering pump. All I'll have to do is get custom lines made, w00t!

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that's very nice. It'll make a very clean setup.
Ive thought about power steering from the mustang, but next is body work and Wrap.

30mpgfc

Nice, at least you can drive yours now, lol. The good thing about the pump is the reservoir is remote mounted so I can mount the power steering, brake & clutch reservoirs out of the way for a cleaner look.

30mpgfc

News: not really news but a local junkyard has a $60 all you can carry 20 feet deal this weekend and I'm going to try and take advantage. Parts I'm gonna try and get:
Ford 8.8 diff
09 Mazda 6 center console with climate control. I'm going to see if I can retro fit it to replace the stock area. Some plastic fabrication might be nessissary.
I also have to get a transmission for my sister's hyundai

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

I'd love that diff. My gears are too high. Fun for sure. But first is useless. And second feels like a first gear.
Maybe 355s for me

30mpgfc

They didn't have the diff I wanted unfortunately. I want the one with the two front hangers, all aluminum. Didn't have the transmission I need either. I did walk out with a set of wheels for my DD and a CV axle w/ hub, bracket and lower ball joint, $65ish

30mpgfc

Hey did you get a custom turbo manifold/s made for your swap? I'm thinking about using some aftermarket mustang headers.

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

No, we kept the stock manifolds and simply cut off the ears. grinded them smooth, and
welded on V-Bands. Wow! I just created a run-on-sentence. Haha

In order to weld the cast we had to heat them real hot while welding and while cooling.
So far there are no cracks or separations. depending on your configuration of
your accessories, you could point your manifolds forwards and create your crossover pipe up front.
I decided to keep my a/c and on my block it's kinda in the way.
Practically speaking there is no power gains to be made for headers on a boosted application.
Killer 6 made 1000 whp with one cast manifold and the log manifold on the drivers side.

I'd definitely say keep the cast manifolds for turbo and headers for n/a.

30mpgfc

FWD remember, the driver side header would curl under the oil pan had my motor come with that one. I do have the passenger side with o2 sensor. I was thinking of just getting a driver side stang manifold and Y-piping to a single 3 inch straight back to where my turbo will be mounted. A resonator and flex pipe somewhere in-between obviously. I'm thinking I'll mount up the turbo like I'm going to install it and make a short straight pipe for a temp tip till I can get the rest of the parts to finish it. I'd like to run Na for about a year to get used to the handling characteristics. To get it Na it'll cost me about $3000 more to get it going. Turbo wouldn't be much more after, costliest thing to run a turbo will be the injectors. I got a starter and alt yesterday for $150 but my dipshit *** asked for an edge starter instead of a mustang one so I'll have to return it to get the right one

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the mustang manifolds will be your best bet. The rest sounds fine too. I have a feeling that
after your exhaust, intake, and tuned; you'll have no need to turbo your car. My car is overkill for
anything but on the track. And my boost controller is ALL the way down. Setting ZERO!

30mpgfc

Lol today is a good day.Yeah but my turbo is smaller than yours with a bigger turbine housing. I'll probably have to have the duration exaggerated @3k to get it to spool before 4k rpms.

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

My turbine housing was too big too. I had to buy a smaller one to make it efficient.
Fortunately, both compressor and turbine wheels were the correct size. I got lucky.
Also it is a comp turbo and they make everything custom so it was no big deal for them.
Honestly, I'll say it again. Once you feel the torque and power come on of the engine N/A
you'll not need that turbo. Unless your going turbo for the wow factor like me or racing it,
it's overkill. Its super-car fast! not quite hyper-car fast though. haha

30mpgfc

Is it faster than a vette fast?

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

It was faster then a Vet Z06 with the rotary in it making 420whp.
I'll get to the track someday.

30mpgfc

What's yourhighway mpgs, and I can't remember what diff you're using?

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, I have no idea. I roll mostly on the street. with E85 lambda at 1.0 and 4.10:1 gears, probably not too good. Better then the rotary though.

30mpgfc

Do you think the stock Na did could handle the power as long as I kept it under 5k rpms? It'll get me on the road quicker to not swap to 8.8 till I go turbo.

30mpgfc

Alt i got for $75

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

You won't break it til you try to launch on some sticky tires at the track. Or wheel hop real bad.
I wouldn't worry about it til you break it or need the gear ratio options of the 8.8.
I have 295 30 18 tires in the rear and they spin so easy on the street there is not really an issue of breaking.
Of course I preload my whole drive train on launch and shifts are softer all with the automatic transmission.

30mpgfc

With higher profile and less psi(tires) you'd get better traction. I think I'll keep the na diff for Nat asp 3.7 then swap for turbo. Might bite me in the *** on my driveshaft, someone might buy it for their swap if I have to have a new one made.

30mpgfc

Test fitting the alt and ac compressor. The ac compressor only uses two bolt holes because the 3rd bolted to the fwd oil pan. New hardware from lowes, m8x 1.25 100mm long for the compressor m10x1.5 110mm long(a lil too much 100 will work) m10x1.5 nut couple of flat washers. Required for this swap is a fwd ac compressor, alt and power steering pump, mustang/f150 starter. The fwd starter is different and i felt stupid swapping it out. Cost me about $75 per item so far. Might have an ecu for $70too