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Oh by the way, Justin at LPFbuilt.com installed his turbo kit into a 2012 ish style mustang. The owner previously had the supercharger installed and wanted the turbo kit.
Anyway first time out on the foot brake he ran a 10.9 quarter mile and second run was a 10.7.
This was done at moderate boost and 3800 lbs with 1.8 60'
Justin was saying on good tires that my same set up could possible put me in the low 10s possibly even
a very high 9.
my car is almost the same setup and 1000 lbs lighter.
I'm telling you, that you may be totally content with a N/A engine with headers, exhaust intake and a tune.
It'll be a 12 second car easily. I ran 12.2 with 299whp but I had the car on a good diet.
BUT, these engines have WAY MORE torque then the rotary. So, in theory it should be capable of low 12s even at a healthy weight.
I was wondering where your turbskie went and why you had stock exhaust manifolds. Considering I've never driven the FC I will probably go for mpgs over speed for the first couple years. I have come up with a new build idea but will have to wait till the proper parts cheaper and actually available. Or I'll just go back to school and finish degree.
Thanks for the pictures, very valuable information there. How much clearance do you have between your exhaust manifold and strut towers?
Looks good man. Make sure you clean and or paint that eng bay otherwise you'll regret it. I did once.
Also de-power that steering rack the RIGHT way. just do a search in our forums here. If you want to
add power steering later you can always just add a Saturn electric power steering under the dash. I may do that
eventually. but totally not necessary and I have 295 30 18s up front and it steers fine even for my 12 yr old son.
Power steering would be nice for quickness though.
If you pull out your dash for and reason, rebuild your air mixer box with new foam seals and relocate your
heater core lines so that their both on the passenger side. the one in the middle is right in the way when running
the heater hoses. That's my plan too but honestly I'm moving to Maui this summer and probably will not need
my heater again unless going up haleakala it's cold at 10000 ft.
I plan on doing a test fit this weekend go find out where I will need to cut/move what. Then modification/fabrication time, followed by paint and primer. I plan on replacing the power brake booster with a 94 929 dual diaphragm unit with matching brake master cylinder. Probably going with a universal clutch master cylinder. I will stick with the Ford power steering pump if I can and AC compressor.
Well the fwd motor has its perks and its faults. One fault is the thermostat housing, might have to cut into the firewall to clear it, or I'll have to relocate the thermostat elsewhere.
I have a couple of unfortunate things to report.
1. I need a slave cylinder spacer. I checked the fork face compared to the back of the engine then the bell housing to the depressed slave cylinder, I need exactly 1" like the swap write up said I would need.
2. My slave cylinder is most likely shot.
I have two options to fix this, buy a spacer($93+ shipping) and buy a new clutch slave cylinder($71+ship@rockauto) or I can bite the bullet and buy a mcleod adjustable slave cyl($380+ship)
I do have one question, will a newer gto slave cylinder fit instead of a Ford or exedy one? I like the gm style slave because it has a bleeder and will save my leg later down the line.
So this is what I've learned, correct me if I'm wrong.
Larger master cylinder = a stiffer pedal because the output(line diameter) hasn't changed.
Master cylinder = M
Slave = S (1.267)
Master cylinder stroke = X(1")
Slave cylinder movement = D(1/2)
We're looking for the D.
Spec stage 1 clutch requires 3/8th" movement to sufficiently release the clutch disc. I'm going to aim for ½".
((M/S)^2)*X=D
((M/1.267)^2*1=.5
(M/1.267)^2=.5
M/1.267= √.5
M/1.267 = ~.7
M= ~.9"
If I increase my stroke length I can reduce my master cylinder bore and get a softer pedal.
I do need to account for clutch disc wear so ill probably have to make my stroke 1.4" anyways.
Getting closerNews: ordered new clutch slave cylinder & spacer($175ish)
objectives today:
Attain new slave cylinder bolts to account for 1" increase.
Remove clutch master cylinder and check/calculate master cylinder possibilities.
Clean 13b with diesel as per Aaroncakes advice(one rotor side seal seems partially seized)
Welp my headlight switch is fuct. I'm just gonna go ahead and do a full rewire with a universal kit unless i can get a package deal with a full mustang harness with ecu & fuse boxes
New clutch slave cylinder($86) and 1" spacer($100) This clutch setup has cost me more than the engine and transmission combined -.- InstalledI spoke with this YouTuber about possibly buying his old bbk shorty headers(chrome) but he wants $220+30 for shipping and then the gaskets are $20 and bolts $15, $285 total. Brand new ones are $309 shipped. I think I may go with a stock manifold till I get it running and can afford to buy some bbk long tube headers($470ish) or some ceramic coated bbk shortys, if they fit that is.
The motor is going in Saturday! With the clutch system solved I will begin test fitting. I wish I had a hang scale so I could check the total weight though :/
Dunn Dunn Dunn! Tadaaaaa! Most of the engine tucks behind the front wheels.
things to do:
Lower the subframe 1"
Cut off 3rd unused AC compressor mounting hole AC compressor too close to the rack
Figure out a new intake manifold system. The fwd intake will not work. Might talk to wicked3gs(?Think that's his username) about buying that straight forward intake manifold or his mustang spare.
good news is the lower intake manifold is like the old sho v8's, you can 180 it. I think I might be able to use a 3.5 Ecoboost f150 upper coolant pipe setup minus the thermostat housing as it would interfere with mounting the motor. 2013 f150 Ecoboost engine, notice the center pipe that connects to the head outputs.
After lowering the subframe I'm going to try and move the engine forward an inch or two to make modifying the shifter linkage & holding bar easier.
Went to 180 the fuel rail to make sure it's possible and found out the inlet for the injectors(tiny hole at the bottom of the cup) can't be more than 1/8th of an inch. Definite choke point.
The fuel rail is 180-able, forgot the word, but it can go either way with all bolt holes and injectors matching up perfectly.
Ordered an f150 upper and lower manifolds last week off of eBay, no injectors, rail or throttle body. Test fitting Spent about an hour and a half hand filing a couple tabs on the front timing cover to get clearance for this outlet pipe. I did have to slightly and very carefully modify to heater core outlet pipe off the lower manifold to get better fitment but I wouldn't recommend it unless absolutely necessary. The chance of cracking the manifold is highly likely, I just used a crazy method to bend it with only applying pressure at the existing bend.
I have been talking with my dad with possible ways to make a sealing point at this pipe. My idea is size matching this o-ring gasket with a steel ring then welding/having it welded to the pipe. Next I'll grind it smooth, paint it and run with it. Final test fitment with it all bolted down.
Unfortunately the outlet on the fuel rail was hitting the firewall so it's now pointing forward for now, I'll try putting back after I lower the subframe and push the motor forward maybe an inch.
Looking good. Sorry I've been on hiatus lately. I lost all my passwords and just haven't either been home or had time lately to get in here. I also moved my swaybar forward about an inch. All I did for this is to move the bracket forward so that the rear hole aligned with the front hole. Then drill and tap a new front hole into the frame. that's it. I do have the ST swaybar with two points of adjustment and I used the hole on the end. this gives me a swaybar end link that remains vertical.
Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I've kind of burned out for the moment and took up fixing my bicycle. I'm also considering buying a new(used) car as my little Toyota is @ 310k miles. I've narrowed my choices to either a 12' Lexus is250 or 13' Mercedes c250 sport coupe. The Lexus would be cheaper to insure as it is a sedan and possibly more reliable as its a Toyota 😁
Welp I decided on the Lexus is250 awd. Unfortunately I can't spend any on car parts till my money levels out(dropped under $1000)
Till then I can lower the subframe and figure out this rats nest of a fuse box that I bought a couple weeks ago.
12-26-16, 10:16 AM
