MidnightEmpire

It's some weird clicker/relay looking thing that was hanging above my gas pedal and twice when I've tried to move it it blows my 15 amp engine fuse in the kickbox. Thanks in advance

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

It is the Carcass of the relay that is designed as the Fuel Relay.
If it blows a fuse toss it and get another one.

MidnightEmpire

Thanks bud, one more thing. It doesn't do anything as long as I leave it hanging, but I'm very sure it's not supposed to be dangling above my gas foot

satch

iTrader: (1)

If it blows the engine fuse when moving it then that suggests one of the wires is grounding out and the wire powered by the engine fuse would be the B/W wire found in the top row (row w/three pins) center position. There should only be voltage on this wire w/key to on (engine running or not running) so then it must be blowing the fuse in either of these two situations. Correct?

MidnightEmpire

To be honest I don't know, I'll have to check and see later on. But I know both times the fuse blows is when I move it to put it on what I presume to be the feet blower (when you turn the air on to feet). Both times I've moved it, I had the car running and the first time there was a small spark and the car stopped running (fuse blew) but the second time I moved it there was an even bigger spark and the car shut off as well (same 15 amp fuse blew).

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to unplug the relay and w/key to on check which of the two B/W wires in the plug has voltage. This is the B/W wire powered by the engine fuse that you are having issues with. Once identified see where the wire looks like it is exposed and grounding out.

MidnightEmpire

Alright, thanks. I'll do it later on (homeschool kid probs heh) but once I find were its grounding out should I just electrical tape it or is there some other better method of fixing it? I've gotten quite good at using electrical tape after buying this car, I've never seen so many chopped/tattered/mangled wires in my life..

satch

iTrader: (1)

Taping it should remedy the problem if the wire is somewhat damaged. And the center positioned B/W wire is definitely the one powered by the engine fuse so there's no need to test which B/W wire is the correct one.

MidnightEmpire

Alright, also one last thing, I noticed that when I first turn on my car it'll idle highish (accelerated warmup process I presume) but like if I don't keep my foot I the gas for at least about a minute, the car will turn off, causing me to have to start the car up again. Is there a way to remedy this? To go deeper into detail like it'll start up and (my tach is acting up but it'll jump to about 1200 rpm) and the car will hold itself there for a couple of seconds and then the rpms will slowly drop until the car turns off and when I keep my foot on the gas the car will stay on longer but sometimes it'll still turn off. It only does it off of completely cold starts but once the engine heats up (per say I drive to Walmart or something) and when I come back the car will start up first touch. I'm sorry if it was confusing or overexplained

satch

iTrader: (1)

Accelerated warm up: This revs the engine to about 3000 rpm for 17 seconds on a cold start when the coolant is above 62 degrees or so.

Fast idle warm up: This occurs after a cold start with or w/o the accelerated warm up. It should cause the engine to idle at about 1300 to 1400 rpm initially and very slowly drop to 750-800 rpm. The drop should not be sudden as it takes numerous minutes for the engine to warm up properly. If yours is dropping quickly then it could be a number of different issues. Your engine could just be old and tired. The water thermosensor might not be telling the ECU to provide the proper amount of fuel to the engine. The fast idle cam might need to be tweaked a bit.

MidnightEmpire

Oohhhh ok, I've found a couple of threads that all point to broken thermosensors and their cars all have the exact same symptoms as mine thank to very much