Tacticalwill

Just finished a motor swap on an 87 fc. it has the same 13b non turbo motor it is just out of an 86. The original motor was clapped out and so was the trans so we swapped them from out parts car. Then we ran into some problems. First off, we cannot connect the battery without sparks and the clutch line getting really hot and smoking (have a video), second, we cannot seem to bleed the clutch. The reverse bleeder I have will just build pressure or squirt out of the bleeder valve. When trying the two man technique it just keeps giving out more air and little amount of fluid and never builds pressure in the pedal. Third, we have no idea how to wire the neutral safety switch, there are also a few other wires under the trans that I have no idea where they go to. I have pictures of those too. Any help is appreciated thanks a lot.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

That big "plate thing" hanging by your fuel filter ia a ground point for the harness and it attached to the Long starter bolt.
Direction: front to back:..head of bolt,Put bolt through that plate,through therear iron,through the trans bell housing,through the top starter bolt hole and through to the back..NUT IT..

NOW the thick wire (positive will go to the 12mm Nut that Is NOT a grounded bolt.(NOTE there are TWO 12mm bolts on the starter..One connects the solenoid to the starter..you want the OTHER ONE that is alone.).
IF you are not sure about which one you can test this by putting a battery booster cable NEG on the body of the starter then a POS to one of the nuts.
One will Spark!..WTF?.....(DON'T USE That one..lol!)
One will engage the Starter..(put the POS cable from the harness to that one.
The Solenoid needs a single spade connector to it to provide power.(Maybe that first pic you have up).It has a black clip on it.

Tacticalwill

Alright so im thinking that were going to try to attach that harness ground. My buddies who pulled the motor didnt keep track of things at all. Not sure exactly what you mean by the long starter bolt tho? Thanks a lot for the help

satch

iTrader: (1)

The neutral switch takes the wire from pin 1G of the ECU which should be Green/Black. To make certain you have the correct wire just do a continuity test on the wire. Place a meter lead on the wire coming from pin 1G at the ECU (plug housing this wire removed from the ECU for testing purposes) and the other meter lead to a wire of the same color in the area it should be and if it rings out then you found your wire. It also connects to a wire that is a ground and is Black. The Black wire comes from connector FE-03 (has 6 wires). Use the wiring diagram to locate this plug (think it might be near the trailing coil) and do another continuity test to verify you got the correct wire. If worse comes to worse and you cannot find this ground wire then wire in another ground wire and you'll be good to go.

W/respect to the other plugs near the transmission that you are uncertain about list the wire colors in each plug to help those who you want assistance from (at times the pics are not conclusive enough).

Tacticalwill

The single wire plug is black with a white stripe on the passenger side of the trans. On the driver side of the trans theres a plug that looks like it has two blue wires. Possibly one blue one green. And the neutral safety switch has 2 green wires and 2 red wires. And that big plate thing next to the fuel filter is the wiring harness ground? And that needs to be connected to the long bolt of the starter correct?

Tacticalwill

alright guys no dice so far.. that big plate thing cannot reach any other bolt. it just spins around the wiring harness. i found that one cable on the passenger side of the trans plugs into the spade connector on the starter solenoid. not sure if that where it goes but it looks like it should be there. I tried grounding that big plate thing by taking 4 gauge wire. wrapping it around the hole in the plate, and connecting it to the driver side shock tower bolt. no luck. Then i took that same wire and connected it from an engine ground to the passenger side shock tower. no luck there either. I think I might just spend the time i have tomorrow on making new grounds for everything. One thing i did find strange was that there was a black wire with a yellow stripe (same as the battery negative) leading from a starter solenoid terminal to im not sure where, I will attach a picture of the solenoid for you guys to see better. pictures not very good but it is the left terminal that has the black/yellow wire. Thanks for the help

satch

iTrader: (1)

The starter cut relay has one plug w/4 wires and the relay is bolted to the driver's side fender next to the main relay. One of the 4 wires is Black/White. It is this wire which runs to the starter solenoid. Again, using a multimeter set to continuity will tell which wire is which.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The neutral switch would be on the passenger side towards the top. On the other side you would have the reverse switch, and the 5th gear switch. The 5th gear has a Black/Blue wire and a Black wire running to it. The B/L wire comes from pin 1I of the ECU. A continuity test proves you would have the correct wire/plug connecting to this switch. The reverse switch is the one w/the Green and Red wires. This switch has a Black/Yellow wire and a Red/Green wire connecting to it. R/G comes from the tail lights.

Tacticalwill

Ok found the problem. My friend thought bolting the power wire to the block was a good idea... Fixed that and now shell crank but wont start. The only thing we did was make more grounds and swap the power wire to the starter. Nothing else is hooked up from the pictures. Any thoughts?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Check for spark,check for fuel. You can spray 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid into the intake and see if the car starts for a brief period. If it does then you know you at least have spark.

Tacticalwill

Tried starter fluid. Didnt work. Going to check for spark tomorrow since we ran out of day light. Is it possible something was fried since the positive was connected straight to the block? Going to try to get a good once over on everything tomorrow

satch

iTrader: (1)

Could be. Focus on the lead coil for spark as the engine should start and run fine just w/the lead coil. There's a check connector which is Green near the lead coil and it has 4 wires. The Black/White wire powers the ECU. You want this wire to have 12 volts w/key to on. At the boost sensor is a wire which is Brown/White. W/key to on it would read 5 volts. This wire powers the engine sensors and it needs to read the correct amount for the car to start. The Black/Yellow wire at the lead coil is to read 12 volts w/key to on, this wire powers the coil. If it doesn't then the main relay is not closing w/key to on or the EGI INJ fuse is bad or the interior 15 amp engine fuse is bad.

Tacticalwill

thanks for the help, will give it a look tomorrow if i get the chance and report back

Tacticalwill

Ok guys engine is now running but it idles at 4000 rpm. Tried ajusting air screw with no luck. Im thinking bac aws thermowax or vacuum leak. Anyone heard of this?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Throttle cable could be too tight as it should have only slack to it. Could be the cable to the cruise control is also too tight. Could be the flapper door to the AFM is stuck open. Could be the fast idle cam is not set correctly. Could be the throttle plates are stuck open. Could be the dashpot is set incorrectly.

When idling push upward on the front throttle linkage and see if this lowers the idle speed. And when starting a cold engine where the coolant temp is above 62 degrees F the engine should idle high at 3000 rpm or so for 17 seconds before dropping down to about 1500 rpm.

Tacticalwill

Alright well check everything out and report back. Hopefully we can figure this out and get her on the road soon. What im still not sure of is the clutch. It doesnt want to bleed at all and the pedal wants to stay on the floor. In thinking we might hust have to replace the slave and master

Tacticalwill

Ok we adjusted some plates in the throttle body and got it to idle but like the other motor its really rough and dies at times. I was adjusting this screw thing with a nut on it. Not sure what it is. But that seemed to make it choppy. Like would bounce between 100 and 1500 at a constant rate. I think its a vac leak. I took some pictures. I cant post them though because im on my phone.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The primary plates have to be set to a certain gap when the engine is off (indicated in the FSM). The TPS's Green/Red wire needs to be set to 1 volt w/key to on after the engine has been completely warmed up.

Tacticalwill

Would the primary plates be adjusted with a screw on the throttle cable side of the throttle body? I think thats what was causing the 4000 rpm idle at first cause they were wide open. But we had this same throttle body on the other motor and it idled fine. Which leads me to believe a vacuum leak or we have the lines going to the wrong places.
Will post pics of vacuum lines when i get home

satch

iTrader: (1)

I'm not famliliar w/the throttle cable.