NA s4 13b setup ??
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NA s4 13b setup ??
Im looking for suggestions/opinoins for an injector setup and mild port setup to run on a stock ecu naturally aspirated. Ive got headers and single exit exhaust, aluminum racing radiator, manual steering rack, a few other suspension goodies, conical intake and coilovers. Overheated recently and want another opinion before i bring the 13b into rotary performance to be rebuilt so i know what to ask for.
#2
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Your stock injectors should run a mild port, but to get the most out've your porting, you should at least invest in a rtek chip or other means of aftermarket ECU, or else your likely to blow it
If your that worried about it, get some turbo injectors, easy swap, no mods necessary to the fuel rail, and maybe a turbo fuel pump
But, if your going to bring it into a rotary shop for rebuild, they can answer all these questions also.....or at least should be able to
If your that worried about it, get some turbo injectors, easy swap, no mods necessary to the fuel rail, and maybe a turbo fuel pump
But, if your going to bring it into a rotary shop for rebuild, they can answer all these questions also.....or at least should be able to
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Your stock injectors should run a mild port, but to get the most out've your porting, you should at least invest in a rtek chip or other means of aftermarket ECU, or else your likely to blow it
If your that worried about it, get some turbo injectors, easy swap, no mods necessary to the fuel rail, and maybe a turbo fuel pump
But, if your going to bring it into a rotary shop for rebuild, they can answer all these questions also.....or at least should be able to
If your that worried about it, get some turbo injectors, easy swap, no mods necessary to the fuel rail, and maybe a turbo fuel pump
But, if your going to bring it into a rotary shop for rebuild, they can answer all these questions also.....or at least should be able to
Yeah, its Rotary Performance in Dallas. So they are very reputable and will be able to advise lots. I just dont want to go in looking and sounding like a total noob, thanx for the advice!
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Your stock injectors should run a mild port, but to get the most out've your porting, you should at least invest in a rtek chip or other means of aftermarket ECU, or else your likely to blow it
If your that worried about it, get some turbo injectors, easy swap, no mods necessary to the fuel rail, and maybe a turbo fuel pump
But, if your going to bring it into a rotary shop for rebuild, they can answer all these questions also.....or at least should be able to
If your that worried about it, get some turbo injectors, easy swap, no mods necessary to the fuel rail, and maybe a turbo fuel pump
But, if your going to bring it into a rotary shop for rebuild, they can answer all these questions also.....or at least should be able to
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The Stage 2 Rtek ECU is almost a standalone, so somebody competent would need to tune it. Therefore, the important thing is to first determine which ECUs your local tuners know how to tune. Different ECUs like different fuel injector types, so don't shop for fuel injectors until you have determined the ECU and which injector types it likes. Your tuner will be able to tell you what you need.
In general, you will probably want:
- Aftermarket ECU plus professional tuning
- Four replacement fuel injectors, or two replacement secondary injectors
- Aftermarket fuel pump
- Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (SX or Aeromotive recommended due to the built-in pulsation damper)
Also consider:
- Upgraded clutch
- Light flywheel
If all that sounds too intense, then you may want to consider just getting the engine rebuilt to OEM standards. Your car is still fun in stock form.
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LOL, fair enough.
The Stage 2 Rtek ECU is almost a standalone, so somebody competent would need to tune it. Therefore, the important thing is to first determine which ECUs your local tuners know how to tune. Different ECUs like different fuel injector types, so don't shop for fuel injectors until you have determined the ECU and which injector types it likes. Your tuner will be able to tell you what you need.
In general, you will probably want:
- Aftermarket ECU plus professional tuning
- Four replacement fuel injectors, or two replacement secondary injectors
- Aftermarket fuel pump
- Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (SX or Aeromotive recommended due to the built-in pulsation damper)
Also consider:
- Upgraded clutch
- Light flywheel
If all that sounds too intense, then you may want to consider just getting the engine rebuilt to OEM standards. Your car is still fun in stock form.
The Stage 2 Rtek ECU is almost a standalone, so somebody competent would need to tune it. Therefore, the important thing is to first determine which ECUs your local tuners know how to tune. Different ECUs like different fuel injector types, so don't shop for fuel injectors until you have determined the ECU and which injector types it likes. Your tuner will be able to tell you what you need.
In general, you will probably want:
- Aftermarket ECU plus professional tuning
- Four replacement fuel injectors, or two replacement secondary injectors
- Aftermarket fuel pump
- Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (SX or Aeromotive recommended due to the built-in pulsation damper)
Also consider:
- Upgraded clutch
- Light flywheel
If all that sounds too intense, then you may want to consider just getting the engine rebuilt to OEM standards. Your car is still fun in stock form.
Edit: Its super helpful knowing that sx and aeromotive have fpd's built in.
Last edited by blue-i-bling; 12-10-15 at 11:11 PM.
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If you are getting bitten by the bug of "more power" already then you should be looking at an ECU that can be flexable over time.
In my opinion I would NOT go for an RTEK as they make versions for N/A and then Turbo.You'd be spending money..twice.
If you go to a decent entry level standalone(may be a choice of words there) l would be thinking about something along the likes if a Haltech Sprint RE or a PS1000.
That way you can get your first project on the go and Keep the ECU for when you go to bigger power such as a turbo power plant.
The ECU can handle both engines.
In my opinion I would NOT go for an RTEK as they make versions for N/A and then Turbo.You'd be spending money..twice.
If you go to a decent entry level standalone(may be a choice of words there) l would be thinking about something along the likes if a Haltech Sprint RE or a PS1000.
That way you can get your first project on the go and Keep the ECU for when you go to bigger power such as a turbo power plant.
The ECU can handle both engines.
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If you are getting bitten by the bug of "more power" already then you should be looking at an ECU that can be flexable over time.
In my opinion I would NOT go for an RTEK as they make versions for N/A and then Turbo.You'd be spending money..twice.
If you go to a decent entry level standalone(may be a choice of words there) l would be thinking about something along the likes if a Haltech Sprint RE or a PS1000.
That way you can get your first project on the go and Keep the ECU for when you go to bigger power such as a turbo power plant.
The ECU can handle both engines.
In my opinion I would NOT go for an RTEK as they make versions for N/A and then Turbo.You'd be spending money..twice.
If you go to a decent entry level standalone(may be a choice of words there) l would be thinking about something along the likes if a Haltech Sprint RE or a PS1000.
That way you can get your first project on the go and Keep the ECU for when you go to bigger power such as a turbo power plant.
The ECU can handle both engines.
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Here is where she sits right now. Overheated late in the summer during a midday highway run *smh lol* It was my daily driver. Ac and Ps 'delete', with a manual rack, koyorad HH dual pass radiator, bc racing coilovers, driftworks rear camber adjuster, corbeau driver seat, custom quick release setup, 5 lug swapped, 4 pot brakes. Once i have it running again, the next things on my list are new brake rotors and pads, forged studs, and I need to install the kaaz 2 way i have sitting in the garage for it. Oh and misterstyx69 I am hoping to stay na so i dont have to spend too much on the drivetrain parts i would inevitably break.
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