sweet d

Hey guys. My 1987 gxl acted like it ran out of fuel the other day, I check the pump and its working, fuel filter is good and clean, my fuel rail is also clean and I have good flow through it. However my injectors are not working. Could the be a electrical issue ? Is there a relay ? Or could they both have went bad at the same time ? My car has zero modifications just the factory 13b

satch

iTrader: (1)

How did you actually check the injectors and which ones did you check?

sweet d

Test light shows there getting power. Also I checked the two on top just under the the air intake.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The top ones are the secondary injectors which are not used when starting or idling.
Does the car start, idle, run at all?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The injectors you need to check are under the intake manifold on the middle iron, buried under a fuel rail.

The top injectors are secondaries, not used when cranking.

Best way to check is with a mechanic stethoscope while the car is cranked with the fuel pump disconnected (to avoid flooding...pull fuel pump relay under dash).

sweet d

OK guys. Thanks for the advice. After I played around with it a bit I could smell fuel, pulled the plugs and there dripping wet with fuel. So its obvious the injectors are working. I deflooded it and it ran for about a minute. Then just died again. I tried to start it again and I can can smell fuel again. I'm pulling the plugs back out and I'm going to deflood it once more

sweet d

Also. While I was running for that short minute it would not rev up. If I touched the pedal it would bog down instead of reving up. Not sure what's going on there I'm new to these cars.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

If it's a large throttle input these cars tend to bog when cold.

sweet d

Deflooding didn't work. Car still won't start.

satch

iTrader: (1)

A flooded engine can cause a non reving situation. 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid can help burn off excess fuel. An ignition problem could also cause too much fuel to build up in the rotor housings so at least make sure the lead coil is doing its thing, and fouled plugs could also be problematic and causing the fuel to not ignite properly. And a clogged catalytic converter also could cause an engine not to rev if everything else was working properly.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

What are the chances of a bad fuel pressure regulator causing the car to flood out? Perhaps rent (free on loan-a-tool at most auto parts stores) a fuel pressure tester. I'm not sure about the N/A's, but turbo pressure should around 42.5 psi factory.

sweet d

I'm sure the plugs are bad by now. As for the cat....can I remove it without hurting anything ?

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Besides Mother Earth, nothing else will be harmed by removing it for troubleshooting.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I would suspect the converters as being the least likely of the possibilities listed.

And testing the compression would be a good thing to check.

sweet d

Update. I replaced the primary injectors & fuel rail, along with new spark plugs. Car starts, revs up to 900-1000 rpm and dies. Every time

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Make sure that the AFM (air flow meter) is hooked up completely as it needs to operate and send signal to the ECU.
If it is not then you can start the car BUT it will die..every time.

satch

iTrader: (1)

And jumper the fuel check connector and see if the car continues to run after the car initially starts. If it does not then you likely have a vacuum leak.

sweet d

OK checked for vac leaks, didn't find anything that seemed wrong there. And the mass air flow sensor is hooked up. Is there a way I can check for trouble codes on this car ? I never saw a obd port under the dash. Its pretty obvious that I'm New to the rotary world. I've always been a v8 & carborator guy till now. Lol

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you jumper the fuel check connector? And finding vacuum leaks is impossible to do just by a visual look over.

sweet d

Where would I find that connector ? And which wire needs to be jumped ? Does it need to be grounded or power ?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can do it in one of two places. You could look at the circuit opening relay which is located under the dash and just to the right of the steering column. It is likely Yellow and Black in color. It has two rows of wires, top row has three wires and the bottom row has two wires. Jumper the bottom two wires to each other ( one wire is Black and the other is Brown).

Reasoning for doing this is because there is a fuel switch inside the AFM and it keeps the car running after initial start up. If it is failing then the car starts and immediately dies right after.

sweet d

Found it under the dash just like u said it would be ( dam your good ). Ran a jumper wire and the pump came on. However the car is still showing the same results. Starts and dies.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Then your issue is a large vacuum leak. Usual suspects are emissions block off plates (if present) and brittle vacuum lines/deteriorated vacuum caps on the intake manifolds.

satch

iTrader: (1)

When the car dies leave the key alone and test the voltage of the Blue wire in the relay (top row far right position) w/the jumper still in place in the relay. The wire should have voltage. You can use the Black wire in the relay plug for the meter to test the voltage as it is a constant ground. If the wire has the proper voltage (close to 10 to 12 volts) then your problem is as stated in the post just above.

sweet d

OK thanks for the advice. I'll get a meeter tomorrow. Also it it possible that my intake didn't seal up right when I put it back on ?