Redrotor

I just finished LT10S install and single 60-1 turbo.
now I can't start the car no red light and yellow blinks when cranking.
also leading get sparks.
I wired MSD after factory ignitor. my lt10a suppose to work with 1 leading coil like factory set up.

engine was rebuilt about 10,000 km ago with street port and was running strong before installation.

fuel set up is 2*550 +2*1680? with aeromotive fpr.

engine seems getting too much fuel.I changed plug but still same.

OK now question is
do I have to change any setting to run with MSD even waste spark set up?
how much base fuel presure(engine not running) should be at?

my local tuner said base map should start it up fine even with MSD.

thanks.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

If your getting spark on leading it should start. i reckon you have just flooded the car.

Get your handset or laptop and

tell me what your values are for IDLE map
and LOAD map.
Where did you get you computer from and is it programmed for X4box or no?

Base fuel pressure at 40psi with intank pump, or 30psi with external pump.

Redrotor

thanks.
I got the unit from microtech dealer near by.
it is supposed to be programed to run without x4..

I don't have hand set or dongle yet so I can't tell you .but I'll get it soon.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Well get it and well go from their.

Redrotor

OK finally I got the hand set.
and It's not very user friendly.I think it's too easy to make mistake..

anyway my idle map is

00" hg 4.00
05 3.48
10 2.48
15 2.00
20 1.48
25 1.48
30 1.33

also I got water temp map.

11C +50%
18 45
24 35
31 30
38 20
46 15
60 12
68 08
82 00

my tps and water temp and air temp all normal.

now what do I do?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

What spark plugs have you got?
Im not very familiar with the MSD unit, dont even know why people bother with a such a crappy unit.
Anyways
You have verified you have spark on the leading leads. Get your timing light, and check that you have your leads the right way around and they are firing in the correct position.
And if all is correct, its as simple as plugs and it should go.

Redrotor

I'm using bur9e all around.
I even tried new plugs but still no go.
my coil fires but haven't checked actual timing.
I tried all kind deflooding method but it almost tried to catch but fails.
I'll check the timing and bypass MSD on this weekend.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

What coil packs are you using? Factory Coil packs?


Check timing !

Redrotor

I'm using MSD coil..

BTW to day I had a little time to play with hand set again and found possible problem.when I crank crank rpm shows 320 but not steadly. it keeps changing from 320 to 0 and 320 again also fuel pump realy cliks as rpm bounces.

if this is not normal I guess I have problem with CAS or CAS wiring.
should I seperate CAS wiring from main harness and power line?I thought only
FC has CAS signal problem with MT..
or ma CAS simply too weak..

thanks for the good advices..

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Ok its an FD.
How sure are you that the microtech is programmed for an FD?

i think its fairly normal that the crank signal does that, have someone check to make sure that their is fuel pressure while you are cranking.

Have you done a self test and verified your injectors are ticking etc?

Redrotor

so it's normal..
i thought that would be the problem..

OK I just did self test and everything looks normal injectors fire OK (can't check primary though)
fan cycles...
but found out weired setup on screen though I saw on same screen there was firing set up as sequential and group.. and mine was set at sequential.
I think since I use 1 coil it should be group isn't it?
I didn't change and try to start it up yet but I'm gona try tomorrow.
also it shows something like mazb2.0 and mazts6 on the screen I think s6 means FD.
may be I have one for with X4 even I asked my dealer to order for without X4.

what do you think?

also when in self test mode factory tach meter supposed to show any RPM?
mine stays at 0..maybe I for got to wire to gauge?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Should show rpm.
You looking at tacho or handset.

Get a timing light hook it up to Leading Front. And check that coils are firing are correctly.
this will tell us if the MSD or computer are not working correctly.

Redrotor

handset shows some thing like 680 rpm but my factory tacho shows 0

howabout that squential or group firing option?
that'll make any difference?

also you want me to check with the timing light while cranking or in selftest mode?

I'll have to get the timing light tomorrow..

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Tacho isnt wired properly. 680rpm is what it should show.
Check timing light while cranking.

from the microtechs that i have seen it should be sequential. But i dont know how the MSD works so i couldnt tell you.

What i would do is delete the MSD all together and run FC factory coil packs. They work alot better then the MSD

Redrotor

OK I checked timing with timing light..
I think it's messed it's about 30-40 btdc also it's not really steady.
I think it's MSD realated issue.
I'll check my ignition map.
but I think I saw somewhere I should change dwell with MSD or any amplifier.
any idea?

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

100% MSD related issue. Always is.

I cant help you with the MSD, dont know anything about them. Id by pass it.

Redrotor

personally I want to keep it. because I had great sucess with it in the past..
well then again If I don't have any choice i have to dump it..
I'll try couple more things and let you know..

Rotorhead34

I ran two MSD's before I switched to Microtech. Then I dumped them and went to four direct fire MSD Blaster coils ignited by the x4 box. Works great that way. Although I still believe the 6al's I used threw a hotter spark, but car still runs strong.

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

IF your looking for strong spark.

Get Crane Hi-6. Best CDI ignition setup i have seen period.

Redrotor

OK I took the MSD out and put stock coil and still no go.

I was rechecking the wires and found interesting possible wiring diagram fu*k up.
I don't know everybody gets same diagram but I got the copy of diagram in the manual and it's very crappy it's originally LT10 diagram and microtech crosed orignal color and remarked with handwriting..
whatever as long as they are correct..

now I was checking the CAS wiring I have blue red yello green on the diagram also on the harness.
and diagram show like this

(0)----blue
(0)----red

I
(0)----yellow
(0)----green

blue and yellow goes to MT and red and green connected together with shield and gos to ground.

but how come my blue and green wire has internally grounded.
when diagram shows red and green wire supposed to be ground..

anybody has correct diagram?

if this was my problem I really want to fly out to australia and kick some dumb asses..

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Something dosnt sound right.


Yellow and blue should be GND.
Green and red are the crank inputs.

On the microtech it self

with the computer facing(plug side looking at you) you and the computer upright(microtech writing facing the roof).

The CAS plug will be on the right of the main plug.

Red is bottom left pin, Green is bottom right pin, Yellow and blue and are top right pin. Top left pin isnt connected to anything.

And on the other side of the CAS loom the shield should NOT be grounded anyway, and any solder joints, should be wrapped with a few layers of foil and taped up. ANd it should be run away from factory coil packs as much as possible.

the CAS looms are the same on all microtechs.

http://www.microtechefi.com/pdf/LTX8...3BTS4-5ign.pdf

Use this diagram if my explanation dosnt make sense.
Also if you can scan your diagram in, i want to see what the hell they have done.

Redrotor

OK I checked MT side wiring loom and looks OK except it doesn't have yellow wire
but I think it is joined with other GND in the loom anyway.(checked with ohm meter)

but look at my diagram(ignore blue writing that's my note)
it doesn't make sense at all..

it says one sensor end is blue and MT end is red....
also yellow is sensor signal when it is connected to ground..

what a **** up it is..

I think I should re wire so top of each sensor goes to MT and bottom goes to ground.

Redrotor

also which color suppose to be no1(top?) sensor?
I don't understand how everybody doesn't have any issue with this crappy diagram..

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

Red and Green are definitely not grounds. I dont know what the hell is going on their. That diagram is wrong.
Who sold you the microtech?

The red and green are crank in puts.

The other colours are gnd

Do your self a favour.

Get a Lt8 diagram for FD and use that.

Redrotor

well I think that's next thing I should try..
my battery drained out already.
I'll charge it up and try tomorrow or after.
I don't know how come only me having this problem.only I got this diagram when everybody else get correct one?

I got the unit from MT dealer here..he order from AUS and I got it after 2-3 weeks..

well I try and let you know..