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So went to the drags last night to see what it would run ..
So as you know getting good HP.
Though I had good grip but how I was wrong. I'm running perilli Pzero 285's on the rear (had about 32psi in them)
First run:
useless, launched at about 4K, smoked the wheels in first , 2nd , 3rd then just went this is a joke and rolled through.
Went to pit area and reduced the type pressure (with a gauge that was no help)
2nd run:
useless, launched at about 3K, smoked the wheels in first , 2nd , 3rd, slowed down heap put it in 4th got some speed up, hit about 7K and smoked the wheels again before crossing.
****.
so lined up again.
Found someone with a tyre pressure gauge (was running 25psi) so reduce the types down to 20psi. I also have adjustable suspension so made it stiffer on the rear
Was a bit overconfident to think that would all help.... lined up. was my worst run. Smoked 1 st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th! by half track backed off and just dribbled through at the end
Then was a bit late, nothing had broken so thought would head home.
So was fun.. But no results. I think the best I did was a 14 sec with a 182km/h (where I still smoked 4th before crossing the line)
Anyway will try again next year (next week is the last of the season for us)
(PS: what Semi slicks should I go, traction is my weakness now !)
[QUOTE=Havoc;11475434 I also have adjustable suspension so made it stiffer on the rear
(PS: what Semi slicks should I go, traction is my weakness now !)[/QUOTE]
Going stiffer is the worst thing you could have done. Make it softer and watch her go.
P.S why doesn't your dyno print out show you AFR's? that is far more important than what the car had prior to being tuned.
P.P.S as you know we have really crappy fuel in WA now a days. And I gotta say you got some ***** tuning to 18 PSI. All the more reason to see where the AFR's are and what WOT timing it is getting..My bet is that you have about 3-4 degrees advance and that is generous.
Going stiffer is the worst thing you could have done. Make it softer and watch her go.
P.S why doesn't your dyno print out show you AFR's? that is far more important than what the car had prior to being tuned.
P.P.S as you know we have really crappy fuel in WA now a days. And I gotta say you got some ***** tuning to 18 PSI. All the more reason to see where the AFR's are and what WOT timing it is getting..My bet is that you have about 3-4 degrees advance and that is generous.
hey mate. sorry soft is not right, stiff is the go (but not to stiff)
I didn't ask for afr. once its set don't need to track as I have a wide band setup on the haltech anyway.
18 has been fine to date. I know full well how crap perth fuels are.
Im running 285's perreli Pzeros but as you can see you floor it in 2nd and it just loses traction. Need to find some Semi slicks that will tame the power
Awesome build and footage, hows the car running, any updates ? I would like to know and if everyone knowledgeable can elaborate, up until what RPM is the GTX35R good for (on a 13B-REW) ? I keep reading on that it dies and falls on it's face at high RPM but here it's taken to 7500 without any issues ? Will it keep spooling strong to 8000 RPM (or maybe even higher) without any power loss / drops at high boost 20-25 psi ? How about with a large street intake port and the Pinneaple EP5A large turbo exhaust porting with a GTX35R will that help the top end ? I really want a Tial SS turbine housing, fast spool up to red line, and 500 + streetable HP without jumping to a huge turbo that will just burn rubber uncontrollably everytime the pedal goes WOT and takes forever to spool up..
Awesome build and footage, hows the car running, any updates ? I would like to know and if everyone knowledgeable can elaborate, up until what RPM is the GTX35R good for (on a 13B-REW) ? I keep reading on that it dies and falls on it's face at high RPM but here it's taken to 7500 without any issues ? Will it keep spooling strong to 8000 RPM (or maybe even higher) without any power loss / drops at high boost 20-25 psi ? How about with a large street intake port and the Pinneaple EP5A large turbo exhaust porting with a GTX35R will that help the top end ? I really want a Tial SS turbine housing, fast spool up to red line, and 500 + streetable HP without jumping to a huge turbo that will just burn rubber uncontrollably everytime the pedal goes WOT and takes forever to spool up..
after the last poor drag performance I wanted to fix some of the issued.
Had all the suspension checked over and was basically fine.
Replaced the rubber and now running Toyo R888 x 285's and hooked up great.
Went down to the drags again and hooked great, powered through 1, 2, 3 then clutch let go... ****.. so got it home and get the clutch out and I warped all the plates in the clutch (to much power..)
So went with a proper direct clutch unit (6 puck twin plate)
So grips now, clutch is good. just another 3 months till the drags re-open.
Issues: Power steering is doing something funny. Need to look into.
To do: line locker to install. New passenger seat. Want to get the new Haltech elite, then can think about going with a E85 fuel and turning it up a bit.
Just middle of winter here and to wet to use it to much, bring on summer
If I go E85 with 25psi I cant see this not killing the 500hp mark. (which is still stupid for a street car - I cant even use 400 on the roads properly)
sucks that injectors alone to go the E85 path are close to $1K...
Check ebay for "NGI-2" injectors. They are genuine Bosch 2200cc/min injectors for $80 and are what most companies rebrand as their own 210# or 2200cc injectors. you can buy the "tophat" adapters for less than $20 to mate them to RX7 fuel rails. ~$400 for 8800cc/min of fuel flow.
Small update, got some injectors but are just gathering dust untill I decide to upgrade computers and the like. Want to go the new haltech with the Fuel Flex sensor.
But car is back on the road are stuffing about with electic power steering pumps. I Killed the first one to running the wrong oil type (just put normal PS fluid in it). So pump died, bought another pump, 2 months later it bnever arrived got refund, bought another from the UK and came in 2 weeks, installed it and then waited a week for the right oil to come in...
So got it all installed and working a treat, this pump is a alot quieter so is either happy on the new fluid of the old pump may have always been on its way out.
Just a quick pic of it washed before a drive on Friday after work weather is awesome here right now, might try to get some vids up. (though was 112 deg fahrenheit last week so is allot cooler now)
So went down to the track last night and had fun. I think my previous best was a 13.5 at 240rwhp. So considering I how have 400wrhp I do expect to go allot better (didnt do as well as I hoped but was good fun)
Grip on the Semi's - Feels great, on my last run tried to use the rev's alot more. (didn't do any burn outs as didnt need it)
Clutch - awesome, holds sweet all track now.
Engine - still running a bit high on the boost 1.4bar but sounds strong
Gearbox - sounding **** - its a 100km round trip to the drags for me and **** it whines like a bitch. Only 5th is it almost quiet. On the night I really felt like 2nd just wouldn't engage (feels like 2 seconds when your driving but in the Vids its bad but not killer)
So I wasn going to upgrade CPU's, change injectors(already purchased some ID's) an get E85 and go HP. But I think I should be spending what Ive saved on a new box.
So really its a 20 year old gear box, its bound to have some issues... (suggestions?)
TKO600?
What about a Auto?
Something more modern? aftermarket something with paddle shift? (dreaming I think)
What about those constant variable boxes?
Just some minor updates. Working on fitting the T56 gearbox with the quicktime adapter bell housing. Rear mount starter which apparently has issued of not fitting.. (nothing some grinding didnt fix)
And been playing with some 3D printing to mount some of my controllers and the like. Got sick of cable ties and **** sitting in glove boxes.
That swap looks awesome! Looks like you go a smoking deal on that gear box. Pretty much any manual trans that can bolt to a LS engine has skyrocketed in the past few years. T-56s regularly go for over $2000USD! Fortunately the TR6060 is a little cheaper, but harder to come by. Fortunately that bellhousing adapter is also about half the price USD here as well.
Did you have to modify the input shaft at all? What all was involved in swapping the clutch splines over, did an independent clutch shop do the work or the clutch manufacturer?
I’d love to do this swap in conjunction with a Ford 8.8” IRS swap and never have to worry about driveline again. Please keep us updated.
05-22-13, 10:23 PM
