DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

One other thing, I picked this up off of the forum here as a fail safe in case I can't use the S4 subframe, decide not to, or something else comes up.

It's a 13b GSL-SE front cover so I could mount the TII engine in the FB and have the correct engine mounts, it would also make the OMP swap easier as well.


I'm not sure if I want to hunt for a pan or not, still deciding on whether to go subframe swap or not. Will figure it out soon though, when finding out how hard selling a TII shell is with and without a subframe...

tacoboy1503

iTrader: (1)

Best bets is to get the gslse pan. itd be Easier n less stressful

82transam

iTrader: (18)

I have the rtek 2.0 since I wanted the ability to tune it (albeit with a palm until the droid app comes out).

I'm running an in-tank fuel pump setup - it's well worth the work to make. It keeps the external plumbing incredibly simple and is nice and quiet.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

I completely agree, for the baffle - I don't have to worry about taking corners and losing fuel pressure resulting in engine detonation.

I'll research my options completely before making a decision on an Rtek model - I do like reading about that Android tuning app, that would be awesome!

So you built an in-tank fuel pump setup? I've read about cutting the top of the tank, putting an FC fuel pump and sending unit in, and replacing it. If that's the case, I may have to purchase the FD fuel pump I have available so I know I'm good up towards 400whp (which I won't reach for years), for cheap, and know that it'll work well.

Here's how I'd follow it, (INTAKE) EFI-prepping a 1st gen, which I believe is how you did it Sean.

Luckily I have a full car instead of just buying the engine for the swap, so I have all of the parts available

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yeah honestly it's not a very difficult job if you can cut and weld. Just make sure the tank is fully cleaned out and free of fumes before you let the sparks fly.

I'm running a walbro 255 in mine, works great and they don't cost much.

Here's a few pics from back in 2007ish of mine

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Oh AWESOME! Thank you, I appreciate the pics. I've been trying to comprehend how the slosh cup mounts in the archived write up and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me. And as I stated and have a pic of earlier, I got a Walbro 255 with the purchase so I won't need anything else! I'm used to the louder fuel pump noise in my 95 Mustang (the thing whines like crazy), as well as an old Chevy truck I used to have. Thanks so much Sean, I appreciate it!


After you said you run the 2.0 Rtek, and ioTus agreed as well, I went on and watched their product video on how the PocketLOGGER system works and that pretty much sold me on it now. It looks simple, easy to use, can be run in races and looks stock, and they are developing an Android app to make it even easier - completely sold! Should be ordering the Rtek 2.1 and sending in my ECU by the second week of March and I plan on getting the swap started tomorrow if at all possible.

I have the day off so I'll be going and getting my fuel tank out of my FB (it only has about 1 gallon of fuel in it, I've been planning on removing it this winter no matter what) and the FC and start the fuel pump swap shortly. I'll also address some of the interior parts I bought from the 83 LE and maybe consider doing something along these lines:

with the dummy lights from the FC. I don't know why, I just like the way they look and I was already thinking of taking out the ashtray anyways for a single-DIN flip up screen install but I'd rather do something like this. I know I'd have the dummy lights on the stock gauge cluster as well but I was considering swapping it out for the FC cluster anyways. I'd adjust the mileage to be exactly what my car's body has on it right now. Just a few things I'm considering...

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Glad I could help What you might not be able to tell so easily on the pic of my tank is that I cut the top of the tank larger than the mounting ring. That gave me room to get the slosh cup in there and actually weld it. Once the mounting ring was in I just used a piece of sheet metal to close it all back up. The whole thing is sealed inside with Por15's tank sealer to keep it clean and leak free. The outside was sandblasted, sealed up with some good primer and 3m undercoating. The vent tube is just a piece of brake line welded in there. It's been working fine, some people go the extra mile and put the vent assembly from the FC tank on there. I might do that on my current build....

Oh as for the Rtek, yeah it's a nice simple way to go. You can always sell it later one when you go stand alone. The turnaround time was incredibly quick. I had it back like 3 days after I sent it to them. Also, to tune it I just bought a cheap ($10 shipped!) palm M505 on ebay. All it needed was a new battery and charger ($7 shipped on ebay lol). The biggest hangup by far is the fact that you need a 32bit computer to sync up with the palm. Thankfully I had an old laptop that had a 32bit version of windows Vista on it. Once the software is on the palm you really have no reason to sync it to a computer again unless you run a ton of logs and have filled up the palm...

The droid app should be out at some point this year so it shouldn't matter too much longer.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Awesome, I'll probably go this route as well. I have a welder and am as experienced as I can be having taken a class in welding and the work I've done at home. Learn as you go!

I was planning on doing this anyways this winter, so it's good to be doing it for a TII swap! There's only 1-2 gallons in the tank because I was preparing for this no matter what.

I'll probably do that and make a write up of it for others, and you'll help me edit it

Yeah, I'm pretty much sold on this option. I've been choosing which tool I'd like to use for the tuning and I think I've chosen my favorite and will be getting it off of eBay soon

My fiance has a few older computers with Windows XP on them, which I believe are 32 bit, that I'll be using to install the system. Luckily I only have to do it once. I might make a VM on my computer in 32 bit XP though so I can run the palm through my laptop I use all day.
VM is virtual machine, which you can essentially run two versions of operating systems on the same computer - I may try it, never done it personally though.

Lord hasten the day! Just curious which cable I'll have to get to make it connect to my phone...

82transam

iTrader: (18)

The droid app will come with a bluetooth dongle that you would just have hidden up under the dash somewhere. As long as your phone has BT (I think they all do at this point) then you should be good to go.

As far as palm's go, I just found the cheapest one I could that had a backlight since I knew I was going for the droid app as soon as it comes out.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

I actually have this exact adapter in my Mustang and I run Torque Pro in it while driving to see everything that's going on with the car. Very nifty tool and I love its functionality so far. I know a BT dongle is different, but it should work in very much the same way. I'll have to start pa-trolling the Rtek forum on the board here to learn more about the system and this app coming out..

I'll probably go the same route. Looking at the m515 because I like it being in color and backlit. The Z 71 is cool as well, but like $35+ and I don't really want to spend that on something I'll only use for a few months.

I'll be off to go visit my FB within the hour here, get to hang out with the grandparents and hopefully get some stuff done!

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yeah I use torque on my 99 Impreza too. The rtek app should be similar I'm thinking.

good luck working on it, always a good day lol

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Hah! 32 bit OS! And look sir, Droids!

The Haltech F9 system I'm building requires DOS to run NATIVE with a Serial r-232 cable to connect it.

Blue tooth you say? Let me go grab my denture paint....

82transam

iTrader: (18)

lol dear lord. Even megasquirt got with the times and put a USB plug on there...

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Haha holy crap! I have the option to get a Haltech E6k with S4 turbo harness for $800 but I'd rather go with a cheaper option so I can get the car up and running quicker. I'll eventually go with a standalone but the 2.1 Rtek will be fine for now.

Denture paint

USB would make the most sense to me of any of the options for connectivity.

Just to prove that the car is truly mine, and this is the first time I've seen the car in a long while:


Current mileage:


Current interior shot:


Got the gas tank out of the car and will be bringing it home to get it ready for the TII swap. Only took me 20 minutes total to get it out


I got my wiring for my amplifier install (battery will be relocated as well).


Here's how I left the car tonight, found my interior car cover and left the 83 LE seats next to the car - not sure if I want them installed or not yet.


Will be fixing the rust (of course, wouldn't want to leave that sit!) with sheet metal, a MIG welder, and some POR 15.

Gas tank will be brought home to get ready for the FC fuel pump install and I'll plan it out from there.

It was nice getting to see my FB again and realize why I'm doing the swap, started to get overwhelming but it made me excited and ready for getting the project done

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Looking good. Don't get overwhelmed, just keep it simple and don't go crazy modding everything all at once and you'll be fine.

Also - research is always helpful, but reading too much will just confuse you. I'm definitely guilty of over reading and over planning out projects. Sometimes you just need to jump right in and get to it.

So what is your final plan, keep the FB suspension and use the SE front cover/oil pan method?

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

I've been told this as well, I have a tendency to over plan and over research sometimes and it can cause me to act like I know what I'm doing even though I don't have a clue!

Oh good Lord, I am still undecided as of right now. I'd really like to go full TII swap with the front subframe, steering, brakes, hubs, rims, etc. but I'm looking at selling the TII shell as well. I'm going to be listing it up here soon. I'll add a link to it soon.

If someone will buy the complete rolling shell from me for a decent price I'll do that. If not, I'll do the whole TII brake conversion as well and be done with it all.

Oh, decisions decisions.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

haha I've got the same car cover

I daily use mine. As I don't trust my parking lot at work! Or UV for that matter.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

I hope it doesn't rain! Mine is like a bedsheet with no protection, but I just use it while it's in storage.

Pics of current progress. I took apart the gas tank and am letting it air out and drain outside for a day or two.











And what's in the black bag you may wonder? Soon...

So my question now is - is my tank baffled??

There is a metal sheet separating the tank in half from about the snow line in the first pic, almost in half. Just curious, I'll be doing the splash cup no matter what.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Gad dam, dood. Ur a badass.

I would NOT be out airing out my gas tank when it was embedded in a snow bank!

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Use acetone to dry the tank faster. And DAMN that is a CLEAN tank. (I'm used to dealing with some rusty *** tanks.)

Nope I watch the weather like a hawk with myt cover. It keeps the leaves out of the crevases and the UV off of my dash. and it does breath so it won't hold water to the car causing cancer.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

After you can't feel your fingers or hands anymore its fine

Yeah, I was EXTREMELY excited to see how clean the tank was upon removal of the parts. There is no debris in there, no rust to speak of, no holes - in pretty much perfect condition so it will be awesome for the build.

I'll be getting an outdoor cover soon hopefully since I don't like leaving my baby outside in the sun or weather either. But I'll put up a car port type thing in the driveway this summer though to help with that

Well, today wasn't too productive. I got home and found a package on my bed with my new (to me, not new at all ) Palm m515.



I was actually able to get the device to HotSync to my Windows 7 64 bit Home Premium laptop within 15 minutes of searching. I came upon these two helpful links:64 Bit Windows USB drivers for Palm Desktop which refers the user to this link to get the actual drivers 64 bit USB Windows Driver for Palm/Garnet OS

So now I don't have to have a 32 bit Windows XP or earlier computer, I can use my regular computer and record data logs and such instead of having to run Virtual Machine (I'd have to upgrade my Windows version) or using a different computer. Pretty successful evening I'd say

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Damn I tried everything I could find to get my 64bit to sync with my M505 and it wouldn't work... Oh well it's done now as long as I keep the battery charged in the palm...

Yeah that is a clean tank man, take good care of that one! Surprisingly, given how rusty the rest of my cars were the inside of my tanks were good too, guess it's because they both saw regular use and didn't sit much... The outside of the tanks were crap, but nothing a sandblaster couldn't fix. Just make sure you flush it out with water a few times so anything flammable is gone before you start cutting on that thing

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Yeah, I've done these kinds of things quite a bit and it was still difficult to go from serial to USB and get the correct driver installed, then get it to HotSync with the computer. I'm tempted to do a How To writeup in the Rtek section in case there isn't one already. I think it would be much more convenient, easy, and would help promote the ECU by helping to make it look less outdated.

I think that's the key here as well - it didn't sit much and was used regularly and appropriately. The tank is mint on the outside too, another reason I love having a low-mileage car

I'll start cutting into it within the next week here as I'm going down to visit an 89 FC in a junkyard to possibly get the fuel pump sending unit if it's still in the car. They also have a 99 4x4 Sportage so I may get the 4.44 or 4.78 LSD gear ratio as well - we will see

Tomorrow I'm making a 4 hour parts run and will post my findings on here when I'm finished

82transam

iTrader: (18)

One thing that I don't think is mentioned often about the FC in tank mod is that the S4 pump hanger is preferable since it's the correct height. S5's have larger tanks and the pump hanger is a bit too tall. It can be made to work without much hassle, but the S4 is easier if you can find one.

The mounting ring and baffle can be cut out of any FC tank, that is all the same.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Que??

Sportage 4x4's use a compatable diff?