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Let me start this off by saying - I'm no expert, I am no magical rotary wizard. I'm just a guy that has a strong passion for cars as do we all.
This is mainly for myself - I wanted somewhere to document my progress and can look back on in later times, also suggestions and help along the way ( like I said I'm no expert). I had no experience with rotaries before this is I'm slowly learning. I've gone from having to pay someone to install and intake arm and pod filter one my first honda ( Embarrassing - please don't judge me ) to pulling half my engine part by myself. I still have much to learn but bring it on!
I better get on to my car:
I bought it almost 2 years ago
1992 S6 Touring model with 26,000 KM ( 16,000 miles) on the clock
Completely stock and it good shape - drove like a dream
So my inner rotary nut was unleashed
Being new to RX7's - I didn't know the Touring models were Autos so someone had previously swapped to manual. Taking off the bottom cover, finding the trans cooler sitting on the bottom of the radiator still leaking a little bit of oil so that was my first stop. Got one of the boys to fit a new Redline twin core alloy one in there. I figured if the stories are true about overheating rotaries I thought some cooling , reliability mods would be handy. Also, fixed some oil leaks from the turbo oil lines.
My First Sole mission was the vacuum lines ( I don't actually have any photos of the job, which I'm quite disappointed in myself for)
I had some weird idles from time to time and the turbos felt sluggish at times. I did some research and decided to redo my vacuum lines. Honestly, best thing I could have done by myself - Frustrating as hell ( some of those little bastards were on there) also broke a vacuum tank. I found out that vacuum tank wasn't on manuals so I decided to just leave it . If you are new to rotaries and you want to learn more about your car - this is a good one to do. While disassembling you learn a lot - where things go , what does what, what the hell is this thing. I finished it all up replace the gaskets on the manifold. I haven't had a problem since. This site has a lot of help so search up!
Also scored myself some Work Emotion CR Kai's ( 18x8.5 , 18.9.5)
I did a few little minor things - Sounds, Alarm with GPS tracking ( I will have some photos later)
Your rear speakers are 6" if anyone wanted to know. Also fitted a new spoiler
Now the day I decided to get my exhaust done.
I was just hanging out with my mate, enjoying the cars and then this happened:
2 Weeks later - I had a full 3" exhaust with 3" downpipe
Custom made with AdrenalinR mufflers which are a New Zealand company. If you ever get a chance to buy some fo these mufflers, you won't regret it top quality parts.
On a side note : She pops flames ( Very happy about that )
Some time later I got the motivation ( and money ) to continue working on her after a promotion at work. Few things on my list:
HKS RS Intake
Alloy AST ( some people remove them but I'm a believer that if something is there, it is normally there for a good reason. So if some little Asian man spent years designing my car to have an AST -I'm going to keep it)
New Ultra racing strut brace
( I didn't like the factory one with the loose joints - I liked the Ultra racing one for being completely fixed. I also have a rear one but haven't fitted it yet)
And New silicone radiator hoses
For new people, I would recommend doing this earlier - taking them off I noticed how bad they were internally
Upon installing the new HKS Intake. I took it for a drive and JESUS! She flys ! It felt so much more free flowing and the sound was amazing ! But I knew something wasn't right . This was way too much power for just a simple intake. So I decided to get some gauges ( Boost, Water temp , Oil temp) which were well overdue considering I've attended a few track days.
Took her for a drive and I was right. It spiked up to 20 PSI. I nana drove it all the way home and parked her up. I purchased 2 manual boost controllers off some info on here. I bypassed the turbo control solenoids and fitted the boost controllers to the pre wastegate and wastegate control valves lines , just like the info on here. Nothing - Still the same and transition from primary to secondary jolts. So I have a couple more ways to try and I will see where that gets me.
Nice start! I was the same way when i started out, it takes a while to learn but after enough time owning a rotary you become your own mechanic
Thanks mate ! I kind of have to be my own mechanic. In my part of the country , the closest rotary shop is about 300km away . Good luck with your build too ! Ashame about your engine . That must of been heart breaking
Took her for a drive and I was right. It spiked up to 20 PSI. I nana drove it all the way home and parked her up. I purchased 2 manual boost controllers off some info on here. I bypassed the turbo control solenoids and fitted the boost controllers to the pre wastegate and wastegate control valves lines , just like the info on here. Nothing - Still the same and transition from primary to secondary jolts. So I have a couple more ways to try and I will see where that gets me.
Think the problem is probably your wastegate. When you free up air flow (intake and exhaust) it overwhelms the ability for the stock wastegate to divert excessive pressure. A boost controller will not fix that problem and the only solution is to either install some restriction to the airflow, or make your wastegate larger by porting it, or combination of the two. Also, you may want to think about an aftermarket ECU if you don't have one already.
If you plan on tracking it, the stock cooling (water, oil, and air) is indadequate
Think the problem is probably your wastegate. When you free up air flow (intake and exhaust) it overwhelms the ability for the stock wastegate to divert excessive pressure. A boost controller will not fix that problem and the only solution is to either install some restriction to the airflow, or make your wastegate larger by porting it, or combination of the two. Also, you may want to think about an aftermarket ECU if you don't have one already.
If you plan on tracking it, the stock cooling (water, oil, and air) is indadequate
Thanks for your input, mate. That is my next step . I'm going to try this set up and see where it leads me . We want to test that the wastegate is actually working properly before we go into anything else .
I want to hold off on the ECU until I get my front mount in and possibly play with my injection system a bit. I want to get the most of it since I have to drive 300km for a tune.
i found that out on my last track day . My new radiator works well ! ( coolant temp was around 90 ) but I'm going to upgrade to a second oil cooler ( Oil temp went up to about 110 at one point , so I called it quits and let it cool down )
Yes the engine dilemma was tragic, but hey its just a new learning curve for me to assemble the keg on my own now
If you do end up replacing some of those vacuum lines id recommend new black rubber lines over silicon ones. The local rotary builder told me since the vac line tubing is so thin, the inside walls of the silicon lines can actually stick together and cause blockage over time - with all the heat produced from underneath our hood.
And we are back in action - Boost is at a healthy level (10-9-12 I still need to adjust it slightly but I'm happy it's not boosting 20 psi). I tried version 2 on the link below and it's working almost perfectly! I will eventually port my wastegate if I stay with the twins but that will be for a later day
So now I am back on track and can actually work towards my goals.
I have 3 track days around march next year ( if the dates are similar to this years I could be on the road for about 3 weeks ), one possible in November but I am unsure if I will go to that one. I'd rather save the money and put more work into the 7 for the next 3.
Things to do before march next year:
- Brake overhaul including slotted rotors and braided lines ( Absolutely cooked them last track day )
- Twin oil coolers ( My last track day, my oil temp reached 110C (230F) so I decided to pull out - Coolant was at a nice 90C 194F so my new radiator is working well )
- Front mount/ V-mount intercooler ( this is based on what I can get ahold of - if I can get hold of a second hand Greddy unit or HKS, I will go for that otherwise I will stick to the front mount I have waiting.
- Custom ducting so the air doesn't funnel around the radiator
- HKS Twin power
- Suspension overhaul including coil overs, Fitting new rear strut brace ( requires cutting ) , new arms , replacing worn out bushes
- ECU + Tune ( Unsure which ECU I will go for at this stage)
- Injection system upgrades
Cosmetic
- 99 spec tail lights
- 99 spec front bumper
- Bride or Recaro seats ( depending what I can find)
- Side skirt extensions
- Rear diffuser
- Work VS - XX for street
- Buddy club P1's for track ( love these wheels, I had them on my old honda and they are very light)
- Rocket bunny guards
- BIG WANNGG ( Wing, maybe I like the track beast look )
More than half of this stuff won't be done before march but I'm going to try to get the most I can ticked off. This is not a guaranteed route, things will change
My plans will change if my engine decides to sh*t It's lunch but we will come to that when/if it comes
So my mate and I came across a shell that we couldn't resist.
97 Touring model - Body is absolutely mint, apart from that bonnet - We saved it from being LS swapped. It does need some interior work but nothing major just a few panels. It did come with a 13B block that needs to be rebuilt plus a new Garret turbo and intercooler, radiator. Also some good wheels and tyres plus adjustable suspension.
Brought for $4000NZD ($2931 USD)
The guy we bought it from was a really good guy.He gave us everything in the garage he was going to put in the car. He said to us " I'm getting too old to this kind of stuff anymore. I just don't have the time and motivation anymore. I want the car to go to a bunch of young boys that will get it on the road and actually use it" And so we will.
The plan however, is to remove the running gear from my car and get the other one running, my mate will drive it for a few months, sell it while building the other engine on the side to put in my car with the garret single turbo. Once we sell it, we will buy a rolling body that isn't as mint as this one and build a Road legal track car with the money we get from the first one . Reason being is: The first one is a really good car but it is a touring model and I would prefer to start with a better base ( example a type r shell). Type R's being around 80KG light than touring from the start. Plus the profit in this car is going to be from how mint the body is and how little we have to do to it . Since we have the parts needed to complete it with my motor and gearbox ( apart from the interior parts). We can get this on the road for a quick turn around then we will have the money to build our next one. I do feel bad for planning to build it and sell it because the guy was a really good guy but I'm sure the next owner will treat it well.
Delivery this morning! My **** as brakes turned up from Znoelli. They look amazing! Thermographic Temperature Paint , whatever the hell that is . Reading up about it, it seems pretty flash - Changes colour based on temperatures which seems pretty nifty. Although you can't see the colour unless you're outside of the car so just have to hope it is not glowing red when I come back in.
Let's hope they perform as well as the look! I am just waiting on the Braided lines to show up and will bolt them us this weekend !
Mounted up my brakes today
All went well , mounted up nicely. If you're new and are trying to do your brakes - To whined in your rear brake pistons . grab some pliers and grab the 2 faces on the piston and twist in and they should whine down. We didn't actually until we looked it up.
Besides that. I'm really happy how they turned out . Love the quality of everything. Good Buy! But car parts are always good buys
Next week hopefully, I will be taking off the front bumper and installing my second oil cooler plus measuring out what is needed for when the front mount goes in
Managed to finish out my oil cooler install yesterday. Purchased my AN fittings and fitted them all up and took her for a run . No leaks so far , so that's a bonus. Watching the temperatures has been interesting. I didn't see the oil temp go past 60C ( 140F ) unless I was city driving which got up to around 70C ( 158F) . It was wet so I haven't had a chance to test hard driving, but of course, the track will be the true test which my next one is on the 10th of November.
If you are looking to fit a second OEM oil cooler with different lines, this is what I used:
(Maybe be different between models, someone on the forum said the front cover was M16x1.5 but it was M18x1.5)
M22x1.5 to AN fittings for Oil coolers
M18x1.5 to AN fittings for the front cover
3x Metres of Oil grade Hose
AN Hose ends
Hose separates
I left the return line to the rear of the motor the same since there was no need to replace it.
Upon removing my intercooler to get to the front cover banjo bolt , I noticed a bit of oil on the joiners so a catch can is my next purchase. I hopefully plan to get some new Coilovers before my next track day so fingers cross.
A decent update today - Christmas Holidays brought some free time with it
I finally got my series 8 Bumper ! which is by far my favourite purchase so far. So happy with the look, now I only need the tail lights and drop the height a little bit and she'll be looking good! Some change of wheels is also on the cards eventually, I am hoping to score some CE28s or some RPF1s.
Also, I got the motivation with a couple of friends to install the front mount that has been sitting in my garage for awhile
Surprisingly easy - the job itself took most of the day, due to all the parts that needed to be taken out and refitted/moved plus the custom brackets for the radiator and condenser. Lucky enough for me with having an aftermarket radiator already which all I had to do was extend that brackets that were already welded onto it. So no welding required! I decide to keep the A/c for now until I move to bigger things.
The battery is also relocated into the boot, which is also easy just time-consuming. We ran the Positive cable down the grommet in the fender through the fender to the passenger side. Down under the side of the carpet around the speakers and into the boot. Easy! we didn't even break any clips.
The only downside is my HKS Intake doesn't fit properly, so I had to use the one supplied in the kit for now until I custom make one. This one is terrible it is just a steel pipe sprayed black and puts the filter right behind the radiator. But it'll do for now. Also, the Apexi BOV is not that flash ( a bit old) so I'll be buying a Tial one or HKS - whatever I can find.
Next Mission is hopefully grabbing a Pettit ECU and an HKS Twin power. I'm going with the Pettit one because I'd like to keep my twins sequential for now and I don't know of anyone that can tune Power FCs in New Zealand anymore. So, once I move into Single turbo, I'll go with Link since a lot of people can tune them. Hopefully, the Pettit one gives me a little more bang for my buck while I work towards my goals.
08-26-16, 03:43 AM
) to pulling half my engine part by myself. I still have much to learn but bring it on!
. Good luck with your build too ! Ashame about your engine . That must of been heart breaking
