When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Increasing water temp Single turbo with EWP and Vmount
So i have a street ported single turbo and instead of installing a idler pulley i decided to just go electric water pump, and since im running an adaptronic i figured i would wire it in to that and get it to run, so after talking to Elliot and Shawn at Turbo source they showed me this Adaptronic 420/440/PnP Rx-7 Davies Craig EWP Control Startup Guide and once i got the car running it was working fine...till i started driveing...
now typically you would think "oh no, it overheating" but no, that wasnt my problem.
i was running to cold...
by alot
which i imagine is mostly due to my V-mount
when i was sitting at lights, it warmed up nicely to around 87° C like it should have, but any time i was traveling faster than 10 Kmh it would start to drop down. Fast.
and when i was going highway speeds it was dropping down below 60° C and would shudder when accelerating (like the kind you get when pulling to hard before its up to temp) all the time.
So i tried messing with the thresholds to reduce the duty cycle to give me more heat, but none of it worked till i did this
now this is working to some extent, it is now cycling from around 76° C to about 85°C and back (on about a 20 second sine wave interval) at any speed but i dont know if i like it and am wondering if anyone has any other ideas to get it a more stable number (looking for a constant 85°C ideally)
Is it an electric pump in a housing front cover maintaining thermostat/bypass function or have you removed the pump/thermo housing and just running an inline pump? without a bypass setup you will struggle to get smooth continuous temp control and will have less dynamic pressure in the block. I have gone full circle on elec pumps myself, I don't think I would use one if I couldn't get it to run with the thermostat restriction post block and bypass, it removes all the stuff that makes the cooling system stable.
This setup has a bypass plug and no thermostat. There is a slight restriction with the bypass plug. I have used our kit with the davies craig lcd controller and I have never seen this issue.
- Borg warner efr 8374 on a turblown manifold with the inconel heat sheilds and the 3"downpipe is wrapped in DI heat wrap, custom intake pipe to the compressor
-ID injectors, 1k primaries, 2k secondaries on CJ motorsport rails with a aeromotive regulator (still stock fuel pump atm)
-Pineapple raceing large street port (both intake and exhaust ports) with as much of the intake polished as i could reach with my dremel and die grinder
-davies craig electric water pump turblown kit, that blanks off the stock water pump, plugs the bypass and opens the thermostat, which is wired via a solid state relay to my ECU for control
- adaptronic rx7 select series 8 ecu
- a Greddy V-mount kit
- exedy twin plate clutch on a lightweight flywheel
- 3" catback and a knight sports high flow cat (which i think actually uses 3.5" pipeing)
- still stock ignition coils, stock fuel pump, OMP still in use, stock crank sensors, stock throttle body with the 2nd butterfly inop'd but not removed, still has power steering and AC, new coolant pressure cap.
^ just building on that, if you look at cars that come with demand control based cooling systems (either electric pump or throttled mechanical pump) they turn on the fans last (or grill shutters last if the car has them).
A bit of a thread revival lol.
i’m having this exact same issue with low water temps. Davies Craig controller set at 90 degrees.
what was the outcome of this and how can I increase my temps without blocking the water rad off?
08-15-15, 11:21 PM
