J.S.J

When I am under power the front end seems to pull or drift to the right, why does this happen?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Alignment, tire pressure, etc?? Have you checked these things?

RTS3GEN

Broken Half shaft?

J.S.J

Come on guys a broken half shaft?

J.S.J

I was thinking the bushings in the rear might be week. I havent had the car on the road long. I guess come to think of it theres no noise or thump felt just a drift to the right and the tires are not braking free. Its a odd feeling thing it does not do it at normal speeds

artowar

iTrader: (1)

Road crown.

J.S.J

Come on guys, Road crown? on hard excel it pulls and not cruising at any other speed

artowar

iTrader: (1)

Why don't you tell us exactly what you've already eliminated as the cause.

Senseny

My drivers side rear tire loses pressure after sitting a while, causing the same problem (only the pull is too the left). I worried about everything, until I checked the tire pressure. About the easiest fix I have ever made.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Maybe your LSD is going? It sounds like you've got torque steer like an Eclipse or something.

Does it pull to the left on heavy braking? What are your tire pressures at each corner?

-s-

PS, "Excel" is a spreadsheet program by Microsoft. The word you should use is "Accel" , it's short for "Acceleration." A 'week' is 7 days, and 'weak' is the opposite of strong.

J.S.J

I have been a tune up and drive-ability tech for 20 years so I understand the comments, half shaft, road crown etc. and see its hard to communicate via a keyboard. All those things can cause pulling however they all have other caricaturists associated with other driving conductions. I haven't gone under the car as yet but really was looking for a area to concentrate at. The engine and trans and rear-end feel firm meaning there not flopping around as if there was a broken mount a really lose fitting bushing. Only when I am applying boost and it happens in the only gear I have applied boost and thats 2nd an 3 gears. I was wondering if the rear suspension or trailing arm bushing would cause this when there getting softer or something short of being obvious. I did a search but the problem is hard to state without getting 1000 hits.

alberto_mg

i'm getting a good laugh from your spelling

here is a couple of things to check:
- check alignment
- check same tire make, brand, tread depth on each side of the rear
- tire pressure
- toe links
- try a different stretch of road too

J.S.J

Thanks for the heads up with english and I think you may be right/write about the crack/LSD.
Thanks

J.S.J

I will check the tire pressure in the rear. Sensenv, seems to know his stuff.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

If it's a bushing, it should happen during hard acceleration and also during hard braking.

-s-

J.S.J

I was going to mention my passenger lets call him Rosco, but I didn't think he mattered. My wife felt it might. Ross is over 500 pounds but he could be 600 lbs. Would this make a difference?

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Haha, no , I meant LSD like your "Limited Slip Differential". This is what makes the power go to both the rear wheels, instead of just one. If your LSD is going out, the power from your engine would be going to just one wheel. That would cause you to lose traction easily (burnouts without trying hard, but only one tire is leaving rubber on the ground). It also MIGHT cause your car to pull to one side. But the most likely thing is your tire pressure or alignment settings.


-s-

J.S.J

Just kidding, my friend is about 300 lbs and he sat in my FD today and the image just stuck with me. He had about a foot of space between his gut and the windshield. I checked the tire pressure in the rear one was down to 20 psi with a nail in it.

OneBadRx7

you said you were a mechanic for 20 years and yet you thought he meant LSD as the drug, thats too damn funny. I doubt its your rear bushings, mine were all shot awhile back and it didnt do what your symptoms are.

J.S.J

I was just joking around about the crack/LSD. I did have a low tire. I was concerned about having to rip into the rear end bushings. I just got finished with the engine and am waiting for my APEXi SAFC S-AFC 2. Those acronyms I am not familiar with but I know it as a fuel controller via my manifold pressure sensor "M.A.P". Really I am accustom to reading/hearing the unabridged description and so new to the rotary world, I have more trouble with this than the engine/turbo/injection system. My engine is street ported thus the "M.A.P" sensor is in a coma except at wide open throttle so I have asked around in the engine management forum for some tips but no one seems to want to respond. Maybe it just too basic and not so challenging a subject. I have about 600 miles on the rebuild and this little thing really has some good power with keeping the rpm down as well as the boost for another 1000 miles or so. I just wonder how it will run at 7500 and 10 psi? I moved all my solenoids to the corner of the engine next to the master cylinder and relocated the coils as well.
Theres nothing but air under the intake now.

http://members.***.net/stdotjohn/New...Size%20610.jpg

FDTuner

I don't think the SAFC is a good idea on a 7. Do a quick search on it and you will come up with lots of threads why. Apexi Power FC is more what you may need.

OneBadRx7

I fully agree with this, the AFC is for like FC T2's and what not, it doesnt fair as well on the FD. Good looking reposition of the coils and what not.

DrunkenBowler

All I have to say is.....Good Luck.

OneBadRx7

so why did you post? good luck? yeah that will get him real far. DUH

Trexthe3rd

I have to hand it to you. Being able to replocate the rats nest and sort through all the vacuum line paths. Thats a lot of 3ft long vacuum tubes you had to re-connect.
But how can a mechanic overlook a punctured tire with low tire pressure causing pull? Isn't it a general rule to look for the simplest solution first?