BobfisH

Car is bone stock except the following mods

PFC and commander
downpipe
decat
air pump removal
LARGE stillway SMIC (wont fit with standard airbox and battery relocated,have to get aftermarket filters)
uprated rad (no heat worries here)
aftermarket AST
uprated clutch (400lb-ft rating i think)

Still on stock twins and fuel system. Anything you guys think i should do before getting it mapped? (e.g running new wires to fuel pump etc, i think i saw this somewhere?)

Thanks

AWD-RWD racer

iTrader: (5)

not sure about power rating, but let me tell you from exp. upgrade your fuel system :smiley_12 injectors and pump

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Get a supra pump and either 850s in the primaries or 1680s in the secondaries.

With a similar setup and a ported motor I made 368 at 15 psi.

It all depends on what boost you plan to run, but you'll be over 300 for sure.

BobfisH

ive been quoted 280 at the wheels at 0.9 bar with my current setup.

tuner doesnt like to take it higher because then the stock twins just start to heat the air up apparently?
Ill look into the supra pump upgrade!

dubulup

my guess 315-325rwhp with proper tune.

BobfisH

p.s can i get 1680s that fit the standard rail or do i have to upgrade the rail too? and will the supra pump work in tank or do i have to run it externally with a swirl pot?

Cheers!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

1. Upgraded rail
2. In tank

However, figure out what you are trying to do with the car, then figure out what mods will get you there. Don't just slap mods on your car just because someone ran the same thing.

BobfisH

well someday i'm sure the car will be 500+hp, so i don't see the point of buying a fuel rail, then having to buy a better one later.

TBH with you guys i have about $1800 of disposable income a month, so its not so much bother getting a new fuel rail if i need it.

and YES i am in the process of buying a house lol.

DCrosby

once that happens, this " i have about $1800 of disposable income a month" will vanish !

BobfisH

presactly! lol.

But oh well, its an investment i suppose. Ill probably buy a house and rent it out and continue to live at home as i love my mom and she's cool to live with I probably cant afford a house with a double garage which is what i'd want, so ill buy a niceish place and rent it out and stay at home with my mom and my nicely fitted out garage that i have now. That shouldnt leave me too far out of pocket (rental of houses in my area can be as much as £900 a month, but buying a house can be as cheap as £180,000 - so you rent the house for 180 years and you pretty much have a free house then! lol)

But no seriously, renting often costs more than a mortgage here so i could be making money. But this is off topic anyway...

treceb

just get 1200/1300 for secondaries. and a thread was revived last month were you could modify your fuel rail to work with 1680s. however prolly like .05% of all members will say its a good idea.

VegasFD

Couldn't have said it better myself. With my new house (bought last July), my FD budget is nearly non-existant! It's cool, my car's running better than ever with the current setup, so I have no complaints.

HoosierDaddy

iTrader: (1)

I think 300+ HP is high for the mods you listed. It sounds like you're running the stock cat-back, intake, and Y-pipe. I'm going to say your tuners guess of 280 is pretty close, I'd be surprised if it went 300 or higher with the stock muffler in place. FWIW, I dyno'd my FD with an open intake and full exhaust (with high-flow cat) on the stock IC and it went like 280, but that was with a set of old turbos (since upgraded). I'd bet you'll have to replace the stock cat-back to get over 290 or so. These are rear wheel HP figures, add about 15% to get flywheel HP.

BobfisH

Dude... my spec as posted above:

PFC and commander
downpipe
decat
air pump removal
LARGE stillway SMIC (wont fit with standard airbox and battery relocated,have to get aftermarket filters)
uprated rad (no heat worries here)
aftermarket AST
uprated clutch (400lb-ft rating i think)


So im not running the stock cat back, intake - but i am running stock Y pipe. Tuner guesses 280 at the wheels.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

At 10 PSI, that's not a bad goal. I've seen a stock ported full bolt-on car using the stock ECU at 10 PSI put out 266rwhp. So, the PFC squeezing out another 15-20 rwhp shouldn't be out of the question.

BobfisH

ive been quoted 0.9 bar he wants to tune it to...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

At 13 PSI, you'll probably be around 320-330'ish area on stock ports.

Str8Down

Where did you say you aren't running the stock Catback?

BobfisH

good point i suppose...i didnt lol, i just specified i was removing the cat.

but is the stock cat back that restrictive? (not being funny here, im actually just wondering if the standard exhaust is that restrictive even without the cat)

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

The standard catback is so restrictive you probaby can't make more than 11 pounds of boost lol

Serioiusly with a DP, HF/mid pipe, cat back, big IC, intake, PFC and 1200cc secondaries any FD with a DECENT tune will make 300 rwhp all day long at 10psi.

I also think that's the sweet spot for the whole drive line. Making more power beyond this point will cause more and more problems as the power is added. However with a good tune and good cooling mods you can literally beat it HARD for years at the 300 level.

If you're serious about the 500 rwhp thing then go LS1 and save yourself lots of headaches. BUT IMO the 13B at 300 rwhp is all I need and this car handles so well you'll be hard pressed to find a more enjoyable car both on and off the track.

BobfisH

Question is, do i NEED 1200cc injectors for 300whp?

im getting conflicting information, but i dont want to skimp on my fuel system as i like to take this car the the nurburgring and various tracks. I dont want to blow up because of shitty fuel system - but at the same time i dont want to buy something i dont need yet.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

No.

BobfisH

Thanks Mahjik, i trust you so you've just saved me some money

What IS the safe limit of the stock fuel system then?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That comes back to a message I wrote in one of your threads before. Safe is a relative term as what is safe to one person may not be safe to someone else.

A/F Ratio is the the most important thing along with charge temps. A lot people will complain about high injector duty cycles, but IMO, as long as you are getting the proper fuel for a good A/F ratio; then your injectors only need to be upgraded when you need more fuel than your current injectors can provide.

As far as a safe limit on the stock fuel system? I don't believe there is an 'exact' limit. Just have your tuner get you the highest boost your fuel system system support with a good A/F ratio and call it a day.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

I can't agree with this advice and it's not cause I have a great fuel setup for sale

You shouldn't stretch the injectors anymore than you should strectch the pump. When it comes to fuel and rotories keep it safe meaning you don't won't either to get hot from being overworked causing a slow down of fuel. Same with charge, water and oil temps. Everything needs to be overbuilt especially if you're tracking the car.