About to buy a fd but not shure the direction I wanna go
About to buy a fd but not shure the direction I wanna go
I have about 12k for a fd. Just want some oppinions from people who have them.
should i get one with mods done to it in good shape or one that is almost perfect shape with just reliability mods that needs a motor and spend the rest of the 12 on a new motor ect.
any suggestions would be helpfull this being my first fd.
should i get one with mods done to it in good shape or one that is almost perfect shape with just reliability mods that needs a motor and spend the rest of the 12 on a new motor ect.
any suggestions would be helpfull this being my first fd.
Is that American $$?
Just kidding. . .as Mahjik has implied, I don't think you'll get one in very good shape at all for around that dollar amount, and you will go well beyond that budget in repairs.
Just kidding. . .as Mahjik has implied, I don't think you'll get one in very good shape at all for around that dollar amount, and you will go well beyond that budget in repairs.
Any suggestions?Alright,since you asked for it..Despite the fact that you are the first person ever to ask what you should look for in buying an FD....This is the reason why we have a FAQ stickied at the top of this forum.Do a lot more research,and come back with an additional $3k-4k for the car,otherwise,you need to wait a bit longer.
i have 12k cash if the car is worth 2 to 4 more i could borrow that much to get it. but i have one im looking at that is a 93 with 80k that is in almost perfect shape but needs a motor and could get the car and replace the motor for under 12. should i go that route and not have any upgrades like power commander or should i get one that needs paint ect. that has a rebuild with commander ect on it.
He's right. The second you get the car your gonna realize a bunch of things need fixing (fluids, reliability mods, worn out parts, parts that you break while "fixing" something else). You should have the money for the car plus some extra in hand before purchasing the money sucking demon that is the FD.
Trending Topics
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 4
From: california
do you have a job and a daily driver?. your going to do a lot of fixing and the car will be a money pit for a few years until you get the bugs worked out. read a lot here before you buy. make sure your ready for this type of car.
Jeff
Jeff
LOL yeah everyone on here says there alot of work i guess im kinda expecting that. but yeah i do have a daily driver and a job. At least if i just pay the 12 cash for one, with the truck i sold to get the rest of the money i dont have the 350 a month payment on that now so ill have a little extra for the car i guess.
my recently purchased FD with only 30k original miles needs:
new clutch
new turbos
that right there is gonna come out to almost $2k, on top of the $18,000 i paid just to buy the car...
and that's one with only 30k original miles that was pretty well taken care of.
new clutch
new turbos
that right there is gonna come out to almost $2k, on top of the $18,000 i paid just to buy the car...
and that's one with only 30k original miles that was pretty well taken care of.
Based on my experience and reading, you should plan to spend around $20k on an FD in the first year of ownership. Either you pay it all up front to get a decent car with minimal issues or you dump it in later to fix the problems that drove the selling price down.
Here's where I'm at:
1. $12,000 - Initial purchase price of 94 FD.
2. $700 - Initial tune-up; replaced filters, fluids, plugs, two tires
Next came reliability mods:
3. $200 - GReddy electronic boost gauge and molded A-pillar pod.
4. $200 - Efini Y-pipe
5. $100 - Aftermarket SS downpipe
6. $700 - Apexi Power FC
Then came the big hit.
7. $Unknown; probably between $6K and $10K. Car is at Mazdatrix in Signal Hill. Includes engine rebuild, Rat's nest troubleshooting, replacement clutch, resurfaced flywheel, etc. etc. This is largely my own doing - I can afford to get this stuff done now (as opposed to next year, when I'll be married) and as much as I like the guys at Mazdatrix, I would rather not see them a few months down the road when something I skimped on breaks.
One of the mods on the forums, I think rynberg, told another member that the purchase cost of the car and the cost of ownership are two very different things. With $12K, you can buy an FD. You'll need more if you want to own it for any length of time. Owning it has meant anywhere between $19,900 and $23,900 for me.
Here's where I'm at:
1. $12,000 - Initial purchase price of 94 FD.
2. $700 - Initial tune-up; replaced filters, fluids, plugs, two tires
Next came reliability mods:
3. $200 - GReddy electronic boost gauge and molded A-pillar pod.
4. $200 - Efini Y-pipe
5. $100 - Aftermarket SS downpipe
6. $700 - Apexi Power FC
Then came the big hit.
7. $Unknown; probably between $6K and $10K. Car is at Mazdatrix in Signal Hill. Includes engine rebuild, Rat's nest troubleshooting, replacement clutch, resurfaced flywheel, etc. etc. This is largely my own doing - I can afford to get this stuff done now (as opposed to next year, when I'll be married) and as much as I like the guys at Mazdatrix, I would rather not see them a few months down the road when something I skimped on breaks.
One of the mods on the forums, I think rynberg, told another member that the purchase cost of the car and the cost of ownership are two very different things. With $12K, you can buy an FD. You'll need more if you want to own it for any length of time. Owning it has meant anywhere between $19,900 and $23,900 for me.
Last edited by DarkLikePoe; Jul 10, 2007 at 05:25 PM.
not to bring you down, but good luck. i bought my FD for $11900. but i needed....
$6000 = reman engine by RR&R
$550 = clutch
$250 = HKS down pipe
$60 = fuel filter
$600 = new primary injector, fuel pump, clutch master & clutch slave by RR&R
$500 = new set of twins
$100 = aluminum AST
and still i need:
new radiator
tuned ECU
new exhaust
Efini y-pipe
$6000 = reman engine by RR&R
$550 = clutch
$250 = HKS down pipe
$60 = fuel filter
$600 = new primary injector, fuel pump, clutch master & clutch slave by RR&R
$500 = new set of twins
$100 = aluminum AST
and still i need:
new radiator
tuned ECU
new exhaust
Efini y-pipe
+1 to all
these advice are serious. go through the FAQ sticky first, and find the best deal you can get for the safety mods first to budget out your total spending including the car.
after you get those done, then you can start on what suspension, intercooler, single or twin turbo, exhaust, bodykit.... etc..
these advice are serious. go through the FAQ sticky first, and find the best deal you can get for the safety mods first to budget out your total spending including the car.
after you get those done, then you can start on what suspension, intercooler, single or twin turbo, exhaust, bodykit.... etc..
FD > Money
All these guys are right, but driving/owning a FD is what makes most of us happy.
GOOD LUCK; some words to live by if you do get it!
Fast and cheap isn't reliable
Cheap and reliable isn't fast
Fast and reliable isn't cheap!
All these guys are right, but driving/owning a FD is what makes most of us happy.
GOOD LUCK; some words to live by if you do get it!
Fast and cheap isn't reliable
Cheap and reliable isn't fast
Fast and reliable isn't cheap!
believe me if you need to replace the motor, you need to replace a whole lot more under the hood. You can trust me, I know. Goodfella can attest to that
And these parts are not cheap. There's hardly a thing on the car that costs less than $100. $100 for this and that may not sound like much, but replace 10 small things for $100 and you're at $1000, that's not including the fact that almost nothing on the car costs $100 and definately not including some of the bigger ticket items that likely need to be replaced with new. Clutch will run you an easy $500, engine wiring harness is $750, at 80k miles that one is probably due or will be due before the next rebuild. Then you've got to figure the suspension will need to be replaced, in full, soon if not immediately(that'd be shocks/springs: $500+, bushings $550 + an assload in labor), there's a good chance you'll need to replace some or all of the interior. If that's the case you'd better pray you have an ugly red or tan interior, because black ones cost an arm, a leg and both kidneys. Then you have to look at upgrading some things. Radiator, AST, intercooler. The list goes on and on.
Oh, did I mention there's a good chance you'd need to replace the turbos too? there's another $350+ for used stock replacements, way more for single or Efini twins or BNRs.
In short, it will save you a ton of money up front if you save the extra 3-5k and get a nice FD.
Of course, all FDs have to have these things replaced eventually, so your best bet is to find someone who is selling one with as much of this work done as possible.
And these parts are not cheap. There's hardly a thing on the car that costs less than $100. $100 for this and that may not sound like much, but replace 10 small things for $100 and you're at $1000, that's not including the fact that almost nothing on the car costs $100 and definately not including some of the bigger ticket items that likely need to be replaced with new. Clutch will run you an easy $500, engine wiring harness is $750, at 80k miles that one is probably due or will be due before the next rebuild. Then you've got to figure the suspension will need to be replaced, in full, soon if not immediately(that'd be shocks/springs: $500+, bushings $550 + an assload in labor), there's a good chance you'll need to replace some or all of the interior. If that's the case you'd better pray you have an ugly red or tan interior, because black ones cost an arm, a leg and both kidneys. Then you have to look at upgrading some things. Radiator, AST, intercooler. The list goes on and on.Oh, did I mention there's a good chance you'd need to replace the turbos too? there's another $350+ for used stock replacements, way more for single or Efini twins or BNRs.
In short, it will save you a ton of money up front if you save the extra 3-5k and get a nice FD.
Of course, all FDs have to have these things replaced eventually, so your best bet is to find someone who is selling one with as much of this work done as possible.
why would a car with 30k miles need new turbos? that right there is a sign that soemhtign is up!
30k over 14 years is a whole lot of sitting, **** will inevitably weaken over time especially when any fluids are involved (i.e. oil seals in the twins) mine just took a **** too
Don't let all the negative posts scare you away from your purchase, though. The FD is one fun, rare, and beautiful car. . .and I draw looks everywhere I go. It's a great conversation piece to pop the hood and talk about the rotary, I love the distinct noise of the car with a nice exhaust. . .you'll love the car once it's finished.
If you go into the purchase knowing what you're getting into, you won't kick yourself in the future. Because you WILL be spending a lot of time learning about the car, and money fixing all the small items that make the FD what it is. . .a one of a kind.
If you go into the purchase knowing what you're getting into, you won't kick yourself in the future. Because you WILL be spending a lot of time learning about the car, and money fixing all the small items that make the FD what it is. . .a one of a kind.
I'd lean toward the 80k mile one that needs a motor.
My first FD needed a motor and had a few reliability mods and new paint. Bought it for $9k spent $4k on a rebuild from a local rotary shop. I should have done a wiring harness while the car was apart but the car was very reliable and performed well.
Thats my opinion.
My first FD needed a motor and had a few reliability mods and new paint. Bought it for $9k spent $4k on a rebuild from a local rotary shop. I should have done a wiring harness while the car was apart but the car was very reliable and performed well.
Thats my opinion.





