RobertoMartinez

Any one have any tips before i crack open the motor? Im just waiting for my manual to come in. any thing i should look for, mark certain parts etc. im doing a rebuild so........trying to shoot for a bullet proof motor without going to 3mm seals. any tips or componets i should use? im gonna get the seals, rotors, oil pump with that ceramic thermal coating. no porting, but ill go over the ports and make them nice and smooth. im looking for 400hp.

thanks

Crackers

Yeah have a reputable builder do it for you..

If you're looking for 400hp and bullet proof I would suggest not doing it your self the first time. for those numbers

RobertoMartinez

i was, but the guy in town is always busy and everytime i always send out motors i still blow them. i would rather pay for parts, wether my cost or a good deal and do it at my own pace and know that i put it together and know that i didnt cut corners than having some other guy do it and pay 5k and still blow it up. its just a personal issue kinda........so unless i could be there for everystep of the build or something then,ill be the one to blame when it pops

RobertoMartinez

so no one has anytips or sugestions then?

pureFD

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?showforum=81

xstacy7

Just curious as to why you want to ceramic thermal coat the seals and oil pump...and rotors also?? You're going to put alot of stress on that engine by not porting it and (IMO) going with 3mm seals if you want around 400 horsepower AND bulletproof. I'd also recommend having a builder open the engine while he shows you the parts and you watch with a camera. Just my opinion

jspecracer7

if your going to build/port it yourself, then the simplest advice for the front cover is Zip tie the front cover bearings/spacers together. You won't believe how many times I've disassembled a motor and went to re-assemble it and forgot the stupid order they go in.

Clean everything. Then clean it again.

Check clearances on all seal grooves(duh). Since it's apart, go ahead and replace all the internal seals/springs. If your going to rebuild it with used side seal springs, be sure you label where they go(i.e. front rotor #2 slot). If it's an old motor...change the rotor bearings/stationary gear bearings.

...and if your pullling apart a stock motor, good luck with the front cover bolt! That one's a PITA.

RobertoMartinez

i just ordered that video from rotaryaviaion.com both vids for the FD and im thinking about their apex seals 2mm. could i send out the housing to get ported? you cant **** that up can you? sorry guys im just real **** about my motors unless you can convince me that there is someone out there that cares about out things like we do, and that were not just $$$$$$$ in their eyes.... it shouldnt be that hard. how hard can it be, ive done lots of engine builds.......just new to the 13b, i know about them, just never had alot of hands on, with them....i was thinking about the thermal coating on the rotors to contain the energy in the combustion chamber to move the rotors instead of absorbing the thermal energy thus heating them up, and the oil pump to reduce friction and increase longevity, same for the seals. I had the coating on the domes and combustion chamer of 3 of my motors. 2 still run and one lasted longer under the conditions that it was in prior to the big bang. and ive had some good numbers with them and i dont see why it would be a bad idea in a 13b. does any one else run coatings in their engine? any pros and cons? RX7STORE.COM does it?

RobertoMartinez

ttt

rex u.k

Go for it Roberto, i suggest you use the 2 piece seals from Mazda.
The video is a good aid.Also remember to use plastic bins and labels for everything and when you re assemble make sure all is clinically clean
Have fun with the front bolt and rear flywheel nut.

RobertoMartinez

educate me on these bolts you guys speak of. are they like, fragile or just plain stuck on there. I FEAR NO BOLT!!!!!!! lol what the best way to take em' out? impact, breaker bar, punch???? torch??? nuclear fision? how hard can it be to take out a bolt? are they TQed to like 300 ft lbs? lol

kempo

iTrader: (2)

well the rear nut has a torque spec. of 290-360ft-lbs as per the workshop man. so add a few years of use to your engine and you can have an idea how tight it should be by now.but there is nothing that can't be solved with a good impact tool.
the one at the front is easier is only 180-200ft-lbs.

and as the old sayng goes: "braking parts is the best way to learn"
dont be afraid of tearing that sucker apart, if others can do it so can you. there is always a first time let it be this one.

good luck

RobertoMartinez

thanks guys!!! I dindt think that id get some form of support from you guys. Im used to the other fourms out there that just flame on people..........this was like 5 years ago when i was on the honda fourms, but now ive gradguated and got a real car. so i figured that id have to go through this whole newbe thing. I fear no bolt or no 13b in that case. I will be planing on taking it all apart soon. just need to reorganize my gagare to compensate for the motor on the work bench. ill do another post on the build up. and get some sugestions when im there.........with some pics......thanks

RobertoMartinez

thanks guys!!! I dindt think that id get some form of support from you guys. Im used to the other fourms out there that just flame on people..........this was like 5 years ago when i was on the honda fourms, but now ive gradguated and got a real car. so i figured that id have to go through this whole newbe thing. I fear no bolt or no 13b in that case. I will be planing on taking it all apart soon. just need to reorganize my gagare to compensate for the motor on the work bench. ill do another post on the build up. and get some sugestions when im there.........with some pics......thanks

J.S.J

Install a rev-limiter and thermo limiter as well as a Breathalyzer ignition switch.
Ha