N1XRR

Well, I have an friend with a '94 Touring that needs a new clutch. I changed mine out this past summer, and it wasn't too bad(Turbo FC, not a 3rd gen). I've done very little with 3rd gens before, and I am in no way a shop, but he did give me a nice offer that would be VERY hard to refuse(a new AVC-R that is). So here's my question: How much of a bitch is it to change the clutch in an FD? I've got the factory manual, but normally they leaving out the hard stuff. Anyone done this before? Is it even worth my time? Michael

adamlewis

The hard part isnt changing the clutch...It gets hard when you got to get the tranny back on

Get the car on a lift and have a friend help you and you should be ok. FR cars dont vary too much...Sometimes an exhaust pipe will get in the way or something like that, but all you got to do is move it out of the way. If you thought doing it on your FC wasnt too bad, I dont see why it would be too hard on an FD.

spooledUP7

Just changing out the clutch isn't that bad, but if you are going to get the flywheel resurfaced then you are going to run into some real fun.

My advise is to either get a multiplyer or an impact wrench with the 1" adapter for the 2-1/8" nut on the ecentric shaft. The impact is by far the easier rout to go. The trick is to heat the nut up with a torch for a minute or two to break down the thread locking compound.
Tip No.2 is to leave the nut loosly on and hit the flywheel at the outer moust corner with a rubber mallet. It will take a few swings but it will come off way quicker than a puller.

Have fun!

N1XRR

He doesn't want the flywheel turned, the car only have 40K on it(original clutch) so...

Michael

N1XRR

What I really need to know is how much of the engine bay has to be taken apart in order to change the clutch? I assume half the intake has to come apart. Any idea's?

Michael

spooledUP7

Well, I don't remember ever having to remove much in the engine bay, but I can give you an Idea of what's envolved.

1. Remove shifter boot assembly. (Pretty easy with the exception of a few hard to get at 10mm nuts)

2. Remove tranny shields and underbelly pans. (Pretty easy 10mm).

3. Remove exhaust from downpipe to cat back (Carful with the nuts)

4. Remove the support bars. (Not too bad, and can be done with hand tools, 12mm)

5. Remove Power Plant Frame. (Kind of a bitch without an impact driver. 14-17mm)

6. Unbolt drive shaft (Impact driver a must)

6. Disconnect all tranny harnesses and clutch slave cylinder. (cake)

8. Remove starter (Slight pain due to nut and bolt combo)

10. Open tranny access plate and unbolt the pressure plate one bolt at a time. (Pain in the ***. The pressure plate is pull style, and is clasped by the release bearing clasping ring.)

11. Remove Tranny bolts (Progressively a pain in the *** as you work your way up. The easiest way is to gather as many 3/8" extensions as you can and use a swivel at the end. Use an impact driver here.

12. Support Tranny, and pull clear of pilot hole.

13. Install in reverse order but be sure to push the release bearing completely into the clasp ring.

N1XRR

Thanks a bunch! I was thinking I would have to take a bunch of the intake stuff off to get the tranny out. This will be INVALUABLE when I get to do this.

Michael

m_snoby

I am currently pulling the engine / transmission out of my 94 rex and maybe you can answer my transmission question. In the attached image file it states that I should "remove the clutch release collar from the clutch cover before removing the transmission". I then has a small picture of it... (by the way this is in the shop manual.) I CAN NOT for the life of me find on the car these linkages to disconnect! Please help.

TIA