Black Magic

iTrader: (2)

iknow how to do it, so thats not a problem. My question is,,, what would happen if you did not install a brake proportioning valve? I know all 4 rotors will then get equal pressure, but is that a bad thing? I know the rears only work about 20-30% but will 50% be a big deal? Or in theory would they be working 100% without the proportioning valve?
Just trying to get some responses simply becuase my freind had one of those valves on his racecar and it worked like ***, it was wilwood too. He wound up running without one....
anyones ideas??
PS my car is driven on dry days only, no exceptions so ABS goes in the garbage!

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

I found that without it the fronts lock up way to soon .
I found out the worng way.I had someone pull out in front of me from a sidestreet when I was at 110 and accelerating..
Almost **** my pants.
They work well if you adjust them right.
Without it your playing with fire.
Car will lock up and slide and wont stop..
Think of an SUV on ice...

911GT2

Will it be a big deal? Probably not for normal light load braking. But if you need to hit the brakes hard (think panic stop cus some woman in an SUV cut you off) all the weight of the car shifts to the front, so theres no weight on the rear wheels. It'd be about the equivalent of pulling the e-brake. Not good in an already dangerous situation.

911GT2

The fronts locking up is due to you hitting the brakes too hard. It can be done without the valve, you just need to get used to it. The problem IMO is the rears.

rynberg

You may need a proportioning valve to tune the brakes. You want the fronts to lock up a little sooner than the rears.

However, removing the ABS on a street driven car is dumb, IMO. ABS will stop faster on dry or wet pavement than without, even if you are Schumacher.

PVerdieck

Yup. Very dumb. It will also lose you an insurance discount, and hopefully if you do this, and are in an accident, your *** will be sued 8 ways past tomorrow.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

I know that, but like I said I got cut off and you dont feather the brakes when you need to stop like NOW.
I adjusted the valve since then and now Im all set.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...remove+AND+abs

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

I'll agree that the ABS is safer, but its not as bad as you think. I have it working pretty good now. I havent went out and did tests and **** but I am confident that IO am not gonna kill myself. But I dont see newbie drivers taking out their abs so I think we need not worry about my safety.
If I thought I was gonna die I wouldnt have removed it.

Smart asses

clayne

You do NOT need ABS to avoid severe accidents, even when braking comes into play.

You do need proper training though.

Black Magic

iTrader: (2)

i read somewhere that a Non-ABS FD with a proportioning valve stopped a few feet quicker than a FD with ABS. YES on dry only! Like i said i drive my car on dry only or like an old fart should rain come. I dont have windshield wipers, motor, or resevior, you get the point. i hate ABS,AC, PS, and the rotary motor as well, but we wont get into that
PLus the engine bay looks sooo nice without that hideous thing sitting in there. (ABS)
to those that hated on pulling it out and made redicluos comments. You are probably the same people that said PS is mandatory and the car is TOO hard to turn without it. When i pulled mine off i barely could tell the difference, point being i think the FD w/o ABS, but with a tuned Prop. valve will be great!
It makes sense to have a prop. valve. In a sense of pulling the E-brake everytime i should stop hard or hit the brakes fairly hard on the track entering a corner isnt a good thing
What brands do you use that are tried and trued? looking at the wilwood, i think hinson used that one...

Black Magic

iTrader: (2)

BTW, that link is dead,,, well the link it goes to is good, but the link in that link, is dead...
heh heh like that one didnt ya?

rynberg

So we're "haters" because we speak the truth? You want to remove the ABS because you don't like how it looks under the hood ( ), fine, but don't try to justify it with claims of shorter braking distances.

It is not humanly possible to outbrake ABS, that's why it was developed in the first place. Do you NEED it to avoid an accident, probably not. Does it help, for 99.9% of situations, yes.

jspecracer7

That's odd since I read in an RX-7 Magazine a couple of years ago that FEED took two FD's with 2 different drivers(one was Pro circuit, the other was the magazine editor(?), both with 17" rims same type tire with different sizes(235 Front/275 Rear I think they were using Bridgestone) with the 1st FD equipped with ABS and the 2nd without and found that they stopped faster with the 2nd FD. Then they did it on wet pavement and had the same results.

With stock tires/rims, can't beat the ABS though.

jspecracer7

Oh, they also "tuned" the brake proportioning valve too.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That link (inside the other link) is fine. You need an account on NoPistions to read it.

Black Magic

iTrader: (2)

I do have a Nopistons account, i dunno why its doing that to me.
Also aside from looks and cleaning the engine bay, my ABS never worked. I wont be missing it much since i never really had it. Is that the link to the guy in japan that did the removal? I think i have seen that before, great great write up for sure. Only confusing thing is everything is backwards. (JDM car) Doh!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes, that is jspecracer7's write up (same one who posted in this thread).

ejmack1

I thought that bigger rims on an FD make the ABS not function properly anyway

rynberg

Nope. If the same wheel+tire diameter is maintained front AND rear, the ABS should be unaffected.

As far as FEED's results go, I would want to see the actual testing conditions.

ABS street cars always stop faster in wet and dry (not snow, dirt, or ice). Look at the new Viper. They didn't really change anything to the car except adding ABS and the 60-0 mph stopping distances dropped from ~120 feet to 100 feet.

jspecracer7

You're correct on the wheel+tire diameter if they are both the same. That's why I added in my post that the testing was done with 235/275 tires(most common 17" rim/tire setup for FD's in Japan).

Basically, if you throw 275's on the back, your rear end has more stopping potential(larger footprint) than the front. So when the front locks up and the ABS kicks on...the rears could have done more breaking.

jspecracer7

Yep, that's my write-up from years ago :P If you search the nopistons 3rd Gen forum, you'll find a write up done by TurboVR6 on how to do it with a LHD FD. That way it's less confusing

Fatman0203

A very easy way to take off ABS for a small period of time (like track even or something) is remove the ABS Fuse under the hood. You have no ABS for however long its removed, then just put it back to return to normal operation.

clayne

Sorry to be pedantic, but this is not the case.

With constant weight, the traction patch does not grow larger when increasing the width of the tire - the shape changes. Wider would result in a traction circle benefiting lateral traction vs longitudinal (acceleration/braking).

jspecracer7

OK. So my thoery is wrong. Are you saying that larger tires out back won't stop faster?