Oil Pressure? Too low at idle?
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Oil Pressure? Too low at idle?
Hey all...got a nagging question that has bothered me for YEARS, litterally. My 93 R1 has been in the family since new. It's got close to 95,000 miles on it, but the engine was replaced by the dealer around 70,000 miles. For al long as I can remember, the oil pressure seems scarily low at times...like the guage will read ZERO at idle when warm and I come to a stop and have it in neutral. It doesnt happen every time, but often enough that it has been a concern...but it's been that way for many many years. I asked dad about it long ago, and he told me he had the same concern but that the dealer had reassured him that it was normal. Is it really NORMAL? Maybe it is, if it really had an oil pressure problem, wouldnt it have died by now? Thoughts?
The idiot light never comes on nor does any buzzer. The car is totally stock except for a cat back stainless system from RacingBeat (was cheaper than the stock one at the dealer).
Oh, if it helps diagnose the problem...the exhaust smells REALLY rich and she does blow a bit of smoke upon cold startup if she hasnt been driven in a few days and the exhaust tips are pretty black on the inside. Otherwise she seems to run perfect.
Pic for views:
The idiot light never comes on nor does any buzzer. The car is totally stock except for a cat back stainless system from RacingBeat (was cheaper than the stock one at the dealer).
Oh, if it helps diagnose the problem...the exhaust smells REALLY rich and she does blow a bit of smoke upon cold startup if she hasnt been driven in a few days and the exhaust tips are pretty black on the inside. Otherwise she seems to run perfect.
Pic for views:
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I have the exact same problem..I'm running very rich and blowing off a ton of smoke on a cold start,and even still smokes a little while idling before it gets warm..My oil pressure is awfully low sometimes,I have it read 0 occasionally but I wasn't quite sure what to do about it..So i'd love for someone to come in here and tell me that it's normal..
#3
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The oil pressure sending unit is under the oil filter pedestal. That area tends to get a little dirty and cause its readings to be off. It also does have a tendency to fail.
If its really bothering you, try cleaning the contacts on the sender and see if it clears up. If not, then its time to replace the sender.
If its really bothering you, try cleaning the contacts on the sender and see if it clears up. If not, then its time to replace the sender.
#4
Originally Posted by Mahjik
The oil pressure sending unit is under the oil filter pedestal. That area tends to get a little dirty and cause its readings to be off. It also does have a tendency to fail.
If its really bothering you, try cleaning the contacts on the sender and see if it clears up. If not, then its time to replace the sender.
If its really bothering you, try cleaning the contacts on the sender and see if it clears up. If not, then its time to replace the sender.
Like Mahjik said.
I had oil pressure of 0 at idle when my car was warm, a replacement oil pressure sender unit cured my problem.
BTW i used a miata/mx5 pressure sender.
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#5
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If it habitually runs rich as you've described, watch for fuel dilution in your oil. A little over time is not uncommon, especially when it's cool out and the car runs richer for a longer period of time after start-up. But it's something to keep an eye on.
Nice looking car btw.
Nice looking car btw.
#6
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I had the same problem
My stock oil pressure gauge did the same thing. I just replaced it with a faze gauge and it's reading the way it should. Once you replace you'll see a difference (I did).They do tend to fail (oem). The smoke that comes out when you first start has to be from the turbo's (blue smoke). Normal wear from the turbo's.
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Originally Posted by Veger
Like Mahjik said.
I had oil pressure of 0 at idle when my car was warm, a replacement oil pressure sender unit cured my problem.
BTW i used a miata/mx5 pressure sender.
I had oil pressure of 0 at idle when my car was warm, a replacement oil pressure sender unit cured my problem.
BTW i used a miata/mx5 pressure sender.
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#8
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your car is supposed to burn oil. if it dosent, then you have problems.
The instruction manual says that you should put in a half a quart every fillup. Rotary Engines are oil injected, and this is why at cold startup, you can see smoke. Its because your oil metering pump is injecting oil into your combustion chamber, for lubrication.
If you havent been putting in oil every fillup, then start to do so. Make sure you dont use synthetic (it dosent burn).
The instruction manual says that you should put in a half a quart every fillup. Rotary Engines are oil injected, and this is why at cold startup, you can see smoke. Its because your oil metering pump is injecting oil into your combustion chamber, for lubrication.
If you havent been putting in oil every fillup, then start to do so. Make sure you dont use synthetic (it dosent burn).
#9
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Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
your car is supposed to burn oil. if it dosent, then you have problems.
The instruction manual says that you should put in a half a quart every fillup. Rotary Engines are oil injected, and this is why at cold startup, you can see smoke. Its because your oil metering pump is injecting oil into your combustion chamber, for lubrication.
If you havent been putting in oil every fillup, then start to do so. Make sure you dont use synthetic (it dosent burn).
The instruction manual says that you should put in a half a quart every fillup. Rotary Engines are oil injected, and this is why at cold startup, you can see smoke. Its because your oil metering pump is injecting oil into your combustion chamber, for lubrication.
If you havent been putting in oil every fillup, then start to do so. Make sure you dont use synthetic (it dosent burn).
#11
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Originally Posted by Master_Tao
was the miata sender a direct fit? what is the benefit of using it? is it cheaper?
The 2nd gen rx7 thermoswitch does the same thing but is a direct fit. Price is about the same.
#12
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Originally Posted by duandcc
Oh, if it helps diagnose the problem...the exhaust smells REALLY rich and she does blow a bit of smoke upon cold startup if she hasnt been driven in a few days and the exhaust tips are pretty black on the inside. Otherwise she seems to run perfect.
If you do the big 'rats nest' job or other major engine work, consider having the injectors removed and ultrasonically cleaned. This can eliminate much of the richness at startup.
#13
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
This is wrong. Synthetic also burns cleanly. It also has nothing to do with oil pressure.
+1. my car never ran as smoothly as it does with royal purple. of course i only got about 800 or so good miles before i switched.
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I had a similar problem with low oil pres. After cleaning the sender nothing much changed. I replaced the oil pres send and I also added an additional oil pres send & gauge (defi D-series). Both work great although my defi gauge responds better and gives a more accurate reading.
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Both work great although my defi gauge responds better and gives a more accurate reading.
The car is totally stock except for a cat back stainless system from RacingBeat (was cheaper than the stock one at the dealer).
#17
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Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
Make sure you dont use synthetic (it dosent burn).
Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
royal purple is a synthetic meant to burn. by synthetic, i meant the usual, like pennzoil or mobil 1.
And before you answer, I don't think any synthetic is meant to burn. One of the obvious advantages is better tolerance of high temperatures. You really should do a search.
#18
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
What? So which is it?
And before you answer, I don't think any synthetic is meant to burn. One of the obvious advantages is better tolerance of high temperatures. You really should do a search.
And before you answer, I don't think any synthetic is meant to burn. One of the obvious advantages is better tolerance of high temperatures. You really should do a search.
synthetic dosent burn efficiently. its meant to withstand high temperatures, therefore when its injected into your combustion chamber, it dosent burn efficiently.
i blew my first motor because of it.
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
What? So which is it?
And before you answer, I don't think any synthetic is meant to burn. One of the obvious advantages is better tolerance of high temperatures. You really should do a search.
And before you answer, I don't think any synthetic is meant to burn. One of the obvious advantages is better tolerance of high temperatures. You really should do a search.
maybe you should do a search.
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
Thanks for the info, but most of us are well aware of the OMP pump and it's function. The issue being discussed was indicated oil pressure, usually sourced back to a bad connection at the sender, and/or a bad sender. It's also affected by engine temperature, rpm, the oil's weight and fuel dilution, but not burning oil. He mentioned some smoke on start-up, but that's not generally an OMP issue. More likely turbos if it's blue smoke. And many owners have used some synthetic oils with success. That debate is long standing and a search will yield alot of info.
...and low oil levels (due to not filling up with a half quart of oil every fillup) can display low oil pressure on your gauge.
maybe you should do a search...
#21
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Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
i dont need to do a "search"
Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
because I know what im talking about.
Originally Posted by 1/3 liter V8 eater
synthetic dosent burn efficiently. its meant to withstand high temperatures, therefore when its injected into your combustion chamber, it dosent burn efficiently.
Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
.....i blew my first motor because of it.
And that part about needing to add oil between changes because the rotary burns oil. Wow, who would've thunk?
Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
...and low oil levels (due to not filling up with a half quart of oil every fillup) can display low oil pressure on your gauge.
maybe you should do a search...
maybe you should do a search...
#22
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the simple suggestion to his question was that he may not be filling it up with oil every fillup, therefore it would be low on oil, which can eventually lead to low oil pressure, if you dont have any oil in your car. (duh)
"regular" synthetic car oil is NOT Designed to burn.
yes you do
good one...
"regular" synthetic car oil is NOT Designed to burn.
i dont need to do a "search"
#23
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Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
"regular" synthetic car oil is NOT Designed to burn.
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
That's not so much the case these days. Oil makers realize that pretty much all performance cars these days inject/burn oil (nope, it's not a rotary thing) and also want the benefits of synthetic oils. So, pretty much the majority of synthetic oils today will burn effectively during a combustion cycle. The BMW M cars have been using synthetics for a while and they eat oil like nobody's business.
click on the "20 facts" page and check out the section about the "resistance to burn off" tab
#25
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Originally Posted by 1.3 liter V8 eater
i dont need to do a "search" because I know what im talking about.
synthetic dosent burn efficiently. its meant to withstand high temperatures, therefore when its injected into your combustion chamber, it dosent burn efficiently.
i blew my first motor because of it.
synthetic dosent burn efficiently. its meant to withstand high temperatures, therefore when its injected into your combustion chamber, it dosent burn efficiently.
i blew my first motor because of it.
Dave