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What's up guys. I picked up a 93 R1 a couple months ago, and the weather is finally starting to come around in North Dakota where I got a chance to take it out and **** around with it a bit this weekend. I did a few roll ons, and no matter what I did I couldn't get my 2-3 shift to go at high rpms, and also in my driving I somewhere along the way managed to lose reverse. That wasn't a huge surprise as I knew 5th gear was iffy, so obviously that synchro finally bit the dust. But I was wondering what you guys suggest I do. I know the 5th gear synchro is a fairly cheap fix, but what should I do about my 2-3 troubles? Should I try synchromesh, or a different tranny fluid, or a diff brace first, or am I wasting my time, and just need to get that 3rd gear synchro replaced too? I appreciate all your help.
Does it go into 3rd without grinding at lower rpms? Usually when the syncro goes it just grinds into that gear. I don’t think your fluid is you biggest problem at this point. Typically people “miss” the 2-3 shift, happens when you try to force it forward and gets hung up @ entry… most of the short shifters cure this through shortening the throw. Sounds to me like there’s a bent shift fork, causing your problems. Might be time to rebuild or get a working used one. For a full rebuild with cryo treatment you’re looking about 1k plus labor to remove the Trans unless you do it yourself
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9.63@146 on Stock Syncro'd tranny
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I would suggest checking the clutch components like the fork as Bacon mentioned. If everything looks good there, then I would get a used tranny. Pettit Racing has been selling some beefed up trannies for the road racing guys for a while so that's another option.
3rd gear goes in completely fine durring normal driving. I just can't hit the 2-3 when the rpms are higher. I don't know if it's just cause I'm newer to the shift pattern, but I've never had a problem with it in any other car.
At one time, I had this problem too. It seemed to be related to the shifter gate (even with the select spring upgrade); there was nothing really wrong with the tranny or clutch.
I switched to a generic B&M type shifter that has centering springs in it, which line up on the 3/4 gate. This pretty much solved the problem of hitting 3rd gear under power. The downside is that this shifter takes more work as it is stiffer side to side and notchier--a minor nusiance--it's just not as smooth and easy for putting around as the stock shifter is.
Just to underscore, the centering action of the shifter seems to be its benifit. Much more important than the short throw lengh. It might actually be even better with a slightly longer or stock length throw as that would give you more leverage....
3rd gear goes in completely fine durring normal driving. I just can't hit the 2-3 when the rpms are higher. I don't know if it's just cause I'm newer to the shift pattern, but I've never had a problem with it in any other car.
It's possible that your engine mounts are a little worn, allowing the driveline to twist a little too much in the upper RPM's.
At one time, I had this problem too. It seemed to be related to the shifter gate (even with the select spring upgrade); there was nothing really wrong with the tranny or clutch.
I switched to a generic B&M type shifter that has centering springs in it, which line up on the 3/4 gate. This pretty much solved the problem of hitting 3rd gear under power. The downside is that this shifter takes more work as it is stiffer side to side and notchier--a minor nusiance--it's just not as smooth and easy for putting around as the stock shifter is.
Just to underscore, the centering action of the shifter seems to be its benifit. Much more important than the short throw lengh. It might actually be even better with a slightly longer or stock length throw as that would give you more leverage....
I would bet that the engine mounts have had it (at least one side).
There are options to help with the driveline movement at upper rpms:
1. Engine torque brace
2. Tranny brace
However, neither of them should be used without first fixing the mounts (if they are defective). Doing a brace without first making sure the engine mounts are in good shape will result in some not so good damage (which a few members have run into).
I would bet that the engine mounts have had it (at least one side).
There are options to help with the driveline movement at upper rpms:
1. Engine torque brace
2. Tranny brace
However, neither of them should be used without first fixing the mounts (if they are defective). Doing a brace without first making sure the engine mounts are in good shape will result in some not so good damage (which a few members have run into).
I appreciate your feedback. I guess it's just time to freshen up some of these wearing parts. Can you suggest a vendor to me where I could get these parts?
I appreciate your feedback. I guess it's just time to freshen up some of these wearing parts. Can you suggest a vendor to me where I could get these parts?
You can get OEM mounts from Ray at Malloy Mazda. For aftermarket ones, there are a few of them available; here's one:
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