Sr20fd3st

HYPOTHETICALLY - would removing the big center bolt in the from of the engine that holds the pulley in place, and then replacing it (along with the little whetver the hell goes in there for oil control or whatever it is) cause excessive oil consumption and smoke? I just put on another set of turbos, used ones, since I was getting ridiculous amounts of smoke before and it's still smoking, although not AS bad. Also still getting oil coming out the downpipe It's making me so god damn mad i just want it to be done!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Did you empty the oil int eh bottom of the intercooler and intercooler elbow? I imagine it could take a while for the remaining oil to blow thru and burn up.

Dave

Sr20fd3st

I have them connected. It is only leaking oil out the hotside.
I have everything between the throttle body and the turbos removed, and have noticed no oil coming from the compressors. I never believed it to be excessive oil form within the motor because it is dripping from the downpipe, and i think if it was internal motor it would just burn off before even having a chance to drip, which led me to believe it was the turbos.

What all can cause excessive oil consumption? Doesnt that little metal valve deal or whatever in the main center bolt control oil flow or something?

Sr20fd3st

another thing i noticed!! I have a mity vac vac pump hooked up to the nipple on the UIM where the vac/boost gauge normall goes so i can monitor vac in the engine bay. while the engine was running, i curiously gave the mity vac a squeeze just for the hell of it. when i did, it spit out a decent geiser of oil. so it sucked oil out from the UIM while it was running? Im thinking PCV? only source of oil in the uim i can think of.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Who built the motor? I know of another similar situation that happened on the west coast, and upon disassembly the rear rotor gear was gouging the rear iron.

Sr20fd3st

would this cause my symptoms? i dont know much about rotary internals. Banzai did the motor, but i dont want to give them a bad rep if it isnt the motor, which i doubt it is. if it is, then im just gonna dump the car in a river and call it stolen...

Eggie

You might want to see Mazdatrix's pulley vs. thrust bearing page.

BlueTII

Do not take the front eshaft bolt out. There is an oil bypass pellet in there already. There is nothing internal to the engine that would cause oil like that in the UIM. If your last turbos were gushing oil and you filled the IC, then it would take a long time to get all that out again. If it were something interal you would have seen an oil slick at the block when you changed the turbos out. Maybe you should just load the thing on a trailer and bring it over to the shop so that we can take a look at it. You have been banging your head on a wall with all the little things that you did wrong, OMP, vacuum lines, cracked LIM etc for months. Not everyone can install an engine in an FD, this is why if you called around to your local piston shops they would turn you away even though they are competent mechanics with working knowledge of engine systems.

Question for you- After you sliced through all the wires on your OMP, shorting it out, did you replace it or just try reconnecting the wires?

Rich, I can't even see how it would be possible for the rear rotor gear to gouge the rear plate, given the position of the gear in the rotor. There had to be a lot more wrong with that engine to allow the gear to make contact.

BlueTII

Verify that you do not have the valve in backwards, and that it does not flow both ways. This however would not cause a "geiser" of oil at the UIM. Another thing to keep in mind is that if your previous turbos were dumping that much oil it will take a while for it to burn out of the exhaust system.

Sr20fd3st

like i said earlier, there is no intake piping attached. i replaced the omp. i welded the uim crack, i tapped and rethreaded the center bolt hole on the Lim, replaced the injector grommets. there are no more vacuum leaks, no more codes. it was an open throttle body when the oil came from the vac pump. the only source for all that oil that i can think of is through the pcv. the pcv is flowing towards the uim, obviously, since the vacuum is what does the ventilation. Im going to remove the PCV and see if that effects anything. I would think though, that that oil would burn off before it had a chance to drip from the downpipe, so my concerns are mainly with the turbos..again...im almost tempted to just buy a brand spanking new ****** set and eat the money to get this over with.

not really a big geiser..just like..a puff of oilly air.

Sr20fd3st

dude that link scares the crap out of me...lets say when the motor was installed...the crank trigger was not put in place...then it was noticed that the crank trigger was not there so the pulley with center bolt was removed..then it was noticed that the crank trigger wheel went on the front of the main pulley with the 4 small bolts and the center bolt really didnt need to be removed so it was replaced (with the oil pellet thing of course). and it was removed and replaced with the car in gear and the e-brake up so the motor wouldnt rotate. HYPOTHETICALLY, if this did occur...could it have caused some sort of problem that would cause this excessive oil burning? I just want to know. and if so, how it would be fixed.

BlueTII

Hypothetically....... it would destroy the trust bearings and spacers. The fix is to tear apart the front of the engine and replace the parts.

Are you sure that it is not overfueling due to a leaking injector. This would cause a ton of smoke. Or if the fuel pressure regulator solenoid was hooked up wrong. The reason I ask is because I just battled with an FD for a day that was smoking like a chimney that had an intermittent leak at a secondary injector. It was pushing fuel out the downpipe, once it makes it's way through the turbos and into the exhaust it picks up a bunch of carbon making it look black and oily.

Sr20fd3st

the smoke does look black in the light for a second. and i did have to do some wiring on the secondaries because their harness wires broke.

And by Hypothetically i mean my life sucks.

Trust me if I had the money it would have been in your shop from the get go. but I'm on a budget so tight I'm riding the overdraft line like a tight rope walker so every thing that gets in my way is a shot to the head. I had a feeling it was running rich from the very moment it smoked but i tested the secondaries. i took the secondary rail out of the lim and left it connected to the fuel line and jumped the fuel pump to get pressure and there was no leakage. i even opened and closed them a few times by jumping them to the battery to make sure they didnt stick open ander pressure and they didnt.

I currently have the fuel pressure regulator connected via a vac line to the lim, so it should be getting full vacuum at idle so pressure should be at low idle pressure.

I have a question about the turbo oil supply. is it simply yeed off the main oil supply or is it on a direct path with the rest of the oil. meaning if i were to block off the oil supply would it continue to circulate in the motor or would it completely block it off? I'd like to block off oil from the turbos and see if it still smokes.

and about that thrut bearing ordeal whatever...is there a write up or somethign i can refer to? im not gonna sell a car with somethign fucked up like that it's too shady and i wouldnt bring a problem with this car onto another person. i need a gasket, oring, and water pump gasket? but that means i have to remove teh oil pan doesnt it?? GOD DAMNIT MY LIFE SUCKS.

for legal reasons, i think i will NOT dump the car in a river and call it stolen

Sr20fd3st

hey wait, that mazdatrix site sais the torrington gear whatever the **** would only move out of place it the motor were to rotate, which it didnt..

Im also gettin 14-16 inhg vacuum at idle. is that okay?

BlueTII

14-16 is very good, it will increase as the engine breaks in.

One way to identify if something fell, would be if the Eshaft pulley had a wobble to it when it is running. This is not always the case, but if it does then there is certainly something wrong with the front stack.

The easiest way to bypass the oil going to the turbos is the disconnect the oil supply line from the front plate on the driver's side, plug it with a 14mm x 1.50 thread bolt.

Couple questions:
Did you use the same oil return lines (bottom ones) from your old turbos on the replacement ones? It is possible that they are clogged and are not allowing the oil to return to the pan. This will over pressurize the turbos making them leak oil.

What weight oil are you using?

Sr20fd3st

i thought that problem with the return lines maybe the case also but when i swapped them over they were clean. im using a 20w50 castrol gtx conventional oil but it is mixed about halfway with 10w30 since that is what iv been filing it with since the turbos were leaking. I've always assumed a thicker oil would do well in a rotary especially in a new motor. correct me if im wrong though.

I will also check for a wobble in the e-shaft today.

thanks alot for all your help on this i really appreciate it.

Sr20fd3st

well i saw no wobble in the e-shaft, but it did have some SLIGHT SLIGHT play laterally, like maybe as much as the thickness of a strand of hair..is this okay?

i blocked off the turbo oil supply. i couldnt find a 14mm bold anywhere so i just put a hose and clamp on the line at the turbos and put a bolt in the hose and it worked fine. NO MORE SMOKE when i did this. i dont care if the turbos get trashed from no oil since ill have to replace them once the motors broken in anyway and i cant boost right now.

I put in new leading plugs and it helped smooth out the idle, since i only had 2 leading plugs laying around at the time.

Next step, theres still a slight vac leak and the UIM i swear it's ridiculous, and a hrdcore one at the front secondary injector still. dont get it but its bad motor died real fast when i sprayed it down with carb cleaner. after I'm done fabricating my midpipe (ran it open downpipe up and down the street due to excitment and now they all hate me), it ought to be good do go. i said **** it when trying to put the TPS in an exact voltage range. i just marked where the min and max voltages where positioned with a marker and let it run and warm up, then just turned it back and forth till it was at it's smoothest. almost like adjusting timing with a distributor lol

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

That's normal. You need some endplay (0.004 to 0.007mm IIRC).

Chris, I agree that the motor I mentioned earlier had some problems. If you guys built it, then I'm sure the internals are fine

Sr20fd3st

the motor does run damn well better than my old one ever did. i exited my driveway today after blocking the oil and with maybe 20% throttle and a little clutch pop in first gear it threw the backend out man did i miss that!

Sr20fd3st

um..does anyone know where the positive wire for the ISC is located in the harness plug up front? it's not getting any + voltage adn the black/white + wire so im sure that is screwing up my idle and all the load compensation goodness...

Sr20fd3st

nvm fixed the ISC thing... car runs great now, NO SMOKE YAY this is nice. and replacing the license plate lights with super bright white LEDS gives the *** end a mean look...like an 06/07 lexus Giggity giggity goo!

Sr20fd3st

go figure. it's been runnin in the garage with no smoke and open downpipe for about a week. finally got done fabbing up my midpipe, put it on, and sounds mean with throttle open but quiet at idle. anyway took it on the road and after 30 seconds started smoking slightly. not alot, but enough that if i were to rob a bank the cops cold probably find me by following a slight blue tint down the road. i was like wtf. also how much oil should be going thru the omp lines? should they be full, or should you see just dribbles come up the lines like when you suck on a straw in a cup of pop thats 99% empty? and then i thought hey im gonna make sure the tps is okay, so i adjusted it and then codes 12 and 18 for tps came up and the car started to run like ****! it acted like it wantd to die on me, and if i hit the gas it acted it hesitated horribly. i cleared the code and when i tried to start it it wouldnt start unless i put my the pedal to the floor and then just barely did it start. once it did start it just died. i finally got it to start and the idle just barely kept it alive long enough for me to turn the idle screw enough to keep it at like 600 rpm. still rough as hell but with no code now. i made sure the tps was bolted tight and one bol was a little loose so i snugged it and all of a sudden the problems stopped. i thought okay problem solved. but it continued to have trouble starting after that. sometimes after it started it would be fine and sometimes ti wouldnt. sometimes if it ran like crpa and i reved it a few times the problem would disspear, a sometimes if it was fine it would randomely go to crap. if the tps is busted for good or something is wrong with it would these symptoms occure? i was reading the FSM and all the symptons pretty much crossed with tps failure of some sort so im gonna go for that route but just wanted an opinion on the matter.
thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

How crispy or abused is your wiring harness?

Because intermittent symptoms like these suggest an electrical short or similar.

Of course cleaning the grounds is a cheaper/wiser place to start. But I fought a few intermittent codes and problems and it was simply the wiring harness at fault. I think that while servicing injectors, adjusting TPS, and generally monkeying around under the hood is not a bad thing at all, the wiring harness is one part of the car that doesn't get any younger, and the more you handle it the more likely it will develop problems.

Dave

Sr20fd3st

yea tommorrow ill go test all the goodnesses. god i've rewired half that harness by now due to broken wires.

danny hahn

What does your oil pressure read? Mine reads 62 psi when I step on it, 57 with hotter intake temps. I'm trying to help someone with similar problems.