You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
So i'm out of ideas and completely lost on whats wrong with my FD now and I have about a week to get it running due to my wife recently starting school and my work i need a running car BAD.
So first with my mods:
power fc and commander
downpipe, hi flow cat, apexi catback
intercooler
intakes
radiator
So ive never had problems with the car starting or running, I changed the radiator about 3 weeks ago and after that the car would start for 4-5 seconds then stall. So last night i changed the fuel pump and fuel filter thinking it was a fuel cut making the car stall and that night the car started for about a minute then stalled a total of 3 times. My map sensor is not messed up so i know its not that. So today i dropped my power fc in for the first time and reset it to the base map and when i tried to start it the car would only crank and crank but not fire up. Any suggestions on how to fix it would be helpful, just need to get my car running so i can take it down to Neptune Speed on the 28th for a tune. Running out of time and options someone PLEASE HELP!
Try putting back the stock computer back in and go through the deflooding procedures. if you were starting for 4-5 seconds and then stalling, it could be easily flooding. Make sure to check all your relays and fuses too.
__________________
If you buy the rotaryaviation.com videos, the majority of questions like what is this or how do you take off this will be answers as well as how do i rebuild or pull my engine
you could also try some hotter heat range plugs to get you going if you are indeed flooding.
try the stock bur7eqp and bur9eqp plugs if your not using them already.
__________________
JDM 1996 FD3S, Series 7, Type RS-Special Edition. Chaste White + black roof, full body kit.
3mm apex seals, apexi intakes, 3" exhaust going to 4"- no muffler, HKS coilovers, Blitz Racing wheels.
oh, forgot to ask if you had charged up your battery. never hurts to have it fully charged before you start cranking it over.
__________________
If you buy the rotaryaviation.com videos, the majority of questions like what is this or how do you take off this will be answers as well as how do i rebuild or pull my engine
Try putting back the stock computer back in and go through the deflooding procedures. if you were starting for 4-5 seconds and then stalling, it could be easily flooding. Make sure to check all your relays and fuses too.
i've gone through the deflooding procedure, its not flooded
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96fd3s
you could also try some hotter heat range plugs to get you going if you are indeed flooding.
try the stock bur7eqp and bur9eqp plugs if your not using them already.
already using those plugs lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by skunks
oh, forgot to ask if you had charged up your battery. never hurts to have it fully charged before you start cranking it over.
my battery got charged the other day so i know its fully charged
did you do anything to your clutch by any chance?
maby check your clutch switch - your clutch may be applying pressure to the flywheel and stalling you.
__________________
JDM 1996 FD3S, Series 7, Type RS-Special Edition. Chaste White + black roof, full body kit.
3mm apex seals, apexi intakes, 3" exhaust going to 4"- no muffler, HKS coilovers, Blitz Racing wheels.
did you do anything to your clutch by any chance?
maby check your clutch switch - your clutch may be applying pressure to the flywheel and stalling you.
Try resetting the idle on your pfc to a much higher idle speed. Maybe 1500 ish. If that will keep the engine from dying, at least you can get it to the tuner.
__________________
94 White PEP
Cheap Bastard Intake (PM me for info)
Mild port / 99 J-spec turbos / M2 DP / RB dual CB / Efini y-pipe / Blitz SMIC
ACT clutch / SR 9.5 flywheel / PFC / 1300's / Supra pump / Fluidyne radiator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahjik
The only person to listen to is "adam c"...........
Try resetting the idle on your pfc to a much higher idle speed. Maybe 1500 ish. If that will keep the engine from dying, at least you can get it to the tuner.
Well the car won't even start with the PFC. Will changing the idle get it to start and how do I do that from the commander?
You said this all started after installing a new radiator... Have you rechecked your work do see if you did something (on accident) like damage the CAS lines, knock a ground wire off, etc?
did you remove the bumper to work on your radiator? did you remove the grounded wires mounted on the front support beam? check to see if the ground wires there are securely connected.
__________________ '94 Chaste White PEG, orig. owner, 107K miles on original engine. Bonez DP, Viton hoses. Replaced FD Thermoswitch with FC. Deleted: EGR, AWS, Coolant Fan Mod.
I'm nor throwing fault codes. Update: after trying to start with PFC there's a sound from under my uim that's sounds like light buzzing or electricity?
I'm nor throwing fault codes. Update: after trying to start with PFC there's a sound from under my uim that's sounds like light buzzing or electricity?
Do you have an HKS Twin Power under there?
They do that sometimes.
__________________
"Way more fun than an amusement ride!" - Passenger at an autocross