Jaysmuuv

Hi everyone. I am getting ready to changeout my engine here in about 2 months and I Have never done this before. Apparently when my Thermostat went and my engine overheated, My coolant seals got messed up. It keeps pushing coolant out the overflow and I have done everything except changing the motor. I found a place that sells sreetported 13B engines for 3100 bucks. Is this a good deal? Or do you know of a place that is better. I get $900 back for core charge. Also, What else will I need to get to swap my engine? Is there anything I need to think about or hard spots that people encounter. The AC is kinda bothering me. Do I have to disconnect it in order to get the Any help would be appriciated.

r1dreamer

iTrader: (4)

did a motor swap in january, very simple, leave as much intact as possible, the hardest part is pulling the wiring harness from the firewall (from the computer, to the engine), everything else is jsut pull and set aside.

you might want to drop the whole cross member, front suspension, front wheels tranny and motor. and pull it from the bottom instead of pulling jsut the engine from the top. its a lot easier cause you just have to disconect the exhuast. even when you put the new motor in up just pull it from the craddle and bolt it to the tranny. if you think abnout it and you have the car lift and engine lift it makes sense. i did it to my car and a supra. if you need help pm me.

brandon

Jaysmuuv

Anyone know if $3100 is the best price I will find on my engine?

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

R1 dreamer, IMO it's a lot easier to take the engine out from the top without the tranny attached. unbolting all that stuff from the bottom is a pain. It's pretty straightforward, just make sure you have everything disconnected. I haven't searched but, if you do you'll find plenty of threads on how to pull the engine. Try giving gotham racing a call (817) 788-8726 They might be able to do it for cheaper. I will bet they build the engine better though. Steve is the man!!! Plus they are great people to deal with.

www.gothamracing.com

RTS3GEN

Maybe not the best price but you get what you pay for. If you want a cheap engine (inexpensive) you can get a reman from Malloy Mazda, for about 2200 I believe, after speaking with Cameron from Pettit racing many newer remans have come from the factory with Brand New rotor housings, not a bad deal. If you want a reliable motor that will handle future abuse, you may want to check out one of the racing engines from Pettit or other reputable builders. Word of caution, although they usually advertise a "rebuild price" very rarely will the actual cost be that advertised price. If you need new housings or new rotors etc this will increase the cost to you. If you are going to go big HP (400 or more whp) plan on a decent rebuild now (gotham, Pettit) instead of going cheap now and buying another motor in 6 months or so.
Art

Jaysmuuv

Good advice guys. thanks. I'll look into Gotham and Pettit and see what they offer. Any suggestions on porting? yeah or neah? Is it worth it? Eventually , When I get enough time and money, Will these engines handle a 50 shot? Do I need some special forged rotors or pins or something? Might as well think of it now and put in the engine I wanna keep vice a temporary replacement.

Jaysmuuv

ohh. I was reading the first reply and something confused me. (not hard I know ) I have to remove the wiring harness from the computer? I thought you just diconnect everything attached to the motor? Can someone just clear this up for me so I can stop being stupid.

mad_7tist

some people will disconnect everything from the engine and leave the harness in the car other will pull the connectors from the ecu and pull it out under the abs and take it with the engine

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

"forged rotors"
Do yourself a favor and don't run nitrous. The 7 can handle it if it's tuned right for it.
Steve Kahn at Gotham racing is one of the best engine builders in the country. I would go with a small to medium street port. He definatly is a very reputable person. I would choose his shop over Pettit or any of the other engine shops any day. His work is top notch and so is their shop. Some of the newer members just don't know of him just yet.

Jaysmuuv

Ok. I looked into Gotham racing and This is what I think I'm gonna get.

Stage 1 streetport (Mild) 13B Engine
Lightened Flywheel ( 10lbs. )
ATC street clutch ( 56% stiffer than stock )

Questions I have.

The Flywheel says it does not come with counterwieght. What Do I need to do about this.

This "streetported engine" thing: What kind of gains will I see with it and do I need to do anything different as far as Fuel injectors or ECU to make sure it runs at the right A/F ratio? doesnt really say anything on their site.

Jaysmuuv

ohh yeah. Does anyone know of some rough list on how many horsepower you get with Lightened flywheels, ported engines, any other accessories. just looking

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

you will need a counterweight for the flywheel or your engine will be al sorts off off balance. They can't be that much and im sure that they stock them. The Lightweight flywheels horse power difference will be decremental with the gear. lets say about 20hp+ in 1st, 15 in 2nd...and so on. you will notice it revs a lot quicker though, also makes heel toe shifting a lot easier.

As far as gains from the street port....it depends on what you want. Steve can give you better low end better mid range or better top end....you can tell him what you want. The gains from the port all depend on your other mods. You might want to think about running an aftermarket ECU if your going with a port though. As long as your staying within close to stock boost you should be okay with the stock injectors.

Call Gotham and talk to Steve, Rich or Ihor.....they are all very informative and can help you with your decision making.

bee

Dont go with the lightend flywheel. IMO, not a good mod for a street car. You need that weight for stop light dragracing. Go with their stage two port also. Still very mild but the stage one is really for people in Cali that need to pass emissions. Stage two will give you a nice upper gain.

lol, forged rotors.. You should go for the eagle rods too.

Jaysmuuv

Very funny. Criticizim is appriciated. However I was just saying that I know you need to getter tougher materials such as pistons connecting rods and pins when dealing with reciprocating piston type engines. All I was asking is if you needed to do something similiar with a rotary engine? What component would be the limiting one based on strength. thats cool though, I kinda worded it funny.