cavellm

Ok, was driving the car, had it set on Low boost setting, (12 psi). Didn't notice anything wrong. No hesitation, sputtering, etc. Drove for 30 miles or so. After some boosting on freeway maybe 5 times, exited. Let it idle at the stop light, then in my driveway for maybe 2 minutes. Good idle, not sporatic at all.

Come out 20 minutes later, turn the key, and car attempts to turn over, gets up to maybe 1500 rpms, sputters, and dies. Try to start the car again, nothing. Car cranks, but doesn't try to turn over but every once in a while. Sounds just like the last 2 times I've blown my engine, but didn't feel any hesitation or breakup at boost. And the car idled perfectly the last time it was running.

Checked the boost sensor on the firewall. The connection there and to the UIM was good. Checked my relay going to my fuel pump and that was good. The fuel lines on the FPR and other underhood areas are good. I do hear a buzzing coming from the UIM area after I try and start the car though. Only happens after trying to crank the engine. After I cut power it stops.

I'll get a compression tester tomorrow to check, but in the meantime is there anything else you guys can think of?

Thanks in advance.

Cavell


Applicable mods: Street ported motor, 550/1600 injectors, supra fuel pump, relay to pump to run on high, SX fuel pressure regulator, NGK 9's all around.

DaedelGT

Cavellm, you seem to have the worst luck sometimes. Hopefully this one turns out OK.

cavellm

Forgot to say, car only has maybe 6k miles on a new motor. Don't think it's a blown motor just cause I didn't hear or feel any detonation. But the symptoms after the fact seem to be the same.

cavellm

You're tellin me man.


Fuel pump is <10k miles, same with fuel filter. 550 injectors are <6k miles, secondaries are <10k miles.

radkins

Sounds to me like a fuel problem, like the engine started on the fuel pressure that was already in the system, then died. check the fuel pressure. Se if the plugs are wet.

cavellm

Couldn't find any fuel leaks, and the plugs are dry, if a little worn out. And of course NOBODY carries plugs for 7's in stock. I'll see if I can grab a fuel pressure gauge at Pep Boys or somethin. Everything else looks fine. The buzzing around the UIM after a failed start is a little worrying though.

tampafd

a fast test for the fuel pump is to have a friend try and start it while you put a funnel in the gas tank and listen for the buzz.. you could also jump the fp at the diagnostic link. pull the plugs and see what is going on. it could be coils

good luck

1 BAD 7

Well, I was going to say check your spark plug boots, but if you already pulled the plugs then that's probably not it.

I freaked a week or so after getting my car back from the shop - it started fine one morning, then after backing out it started sputtering and died...wouldn't start back up.

Turned out one of the spark plug wires wasn't on tight and jiggled loose. At first glance it looked connected but once I reached down it popped right off the plug. I'm guessing you've tried again since checking the plugs?

And I feel your pain...my car hasn't run right since I blew the engine 18 months ago!

saxyman990

Do you have an Advanced Auto down there by you? They carry both the Leading and Trailing plugs for FD's (standard NGK, not the platinum).

The buzzing sound comes from the Idle Speed Control valve (back side of the UIM). I've had the same problem a couple of times. The buzzing shouldn't be something to be alarmed about (at least it wasn't on my car). If the car doesn't start, this solenoid just keeps clicking on and off, hence the buzz. But just in case, you could try switching it out with a friends car (one that you know works).

Hope that helps,
Rob

kingcornflake

@cavellm

Don't shoot me on this, but isn't there too much fuel in the combustion chamber?

Ever tried to start with full throttle? If that doesn't work then pull the main fuse for the injection, crank 3x 10sec. with throttle open and reinsert it. That should do it.

Well, you never know

Best regards
Patrick

cavellm

I'm picking up some plugs after work today. Gonna see if they have any wires as well as a just in case measure.

It could be too much fuel, and the plugs are too worn out to ignite all of it.

The weird thing is, my car has NEVER flooded. Ran great the last time it was started, didn't do anything different on shut down, then just kaput.

What would the possible causes of flooding the engine?

Really hope that fixes it, as I don't want to have to ride my motorcycle to work wearing slacks out in another 40 degree morning.

jspecracer7

The Buzzing sound is the Idle Control Valve trying to learn idle...can't exactly do it at 0 rpms so it freaks out.

I'd pull off one of the fuel lines and prime the pump to see if you're getting fuel. Probably easiest to do it from the rear where it initially leaves the gas tank. Left one is the send I believe.

suganuma

Cavell, can you hear the pump run after tripping the relay? I was using a high amp relay that went bad on me prematurely. It would trip, but not all the way - it got stuck. IIRC, I told you about this before and you got a better relay than what I was using. I had same symptoms as you, but figured it out pretty quick since I have a fuel pressure gauge.
I agree with the others, it sounds like a fuel pressure problem.

I highly suggest you get a fuel pressure gauge - mine has proved its worth many times.

Depending on the Advanced Auto parts store, you may be able to get the stock platinum plugs as well.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

reason it would flood is prolly low compression due to the recent rebuild and a hot engine on cool down.

rebuilds take a bit longer to break in than fresh motors due to used parts. This is a daily occurance on my FC if you dont' know how to start it. Would make it up to 1500 then die. Then wont' catch (spark plugs coated)

On a FD if u hold the gas down it shuts the fuel pump off (really wish my FC had that).

Let it sit over night, tow start,try starting it with the pedal down, or remove the spark plugs and fuses and turn it over a couple times.

cavellm

Hadn't tried removing the plugs and fuses to start yet. Did try flooring it, then trying to start to no avail.

Nic - I am starting to wonder if I should keep this relay. I upgraded from the original one to an 80 amp continuous relay. But the weird thing is, every once in a while driving around I'll hear the CLICK like it's shutting itself on and off. Kinda makes me nervous.

I read one guy on here removed a resistor on the stock pump to make it run on high all the time. Can't find the post right now though.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

i think that's over kill and just wears things out faster (like the fpr/pump)

your fuel pump doesn't need to work 100 pecent at idle or highway driving.

perhaps the upgraded relay requires too much current draw to throw the solenoid and the clicking is it shutting off (spring and the core).

if that's the case i would look there since u might not have fuel.

just looking at the spark plugs should tell you if your flooded or not.

cavellm

I know I'm running pretty rich, but what would the plugs looks like if it was flooded?

tampafd

black and wet

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

i don't stick my plug anywhere where it's black and wet...LOL

if it's white your running lean FYI......i didn't want to make a completely meaningless post.

cavellm

Not to sound dumb, but which is the main fuse for the injection? Can't find that specifically in the workshop manual.

kcolyer27

my friend is having the same problem

saxyman990

It's the one marked EGI (electronic gas injection). It's in the main fuse box located next to the battery.

SVT Squasher

I was over at my sisters and turned my car off turbo timer running, after greeting the dog the turbo timer shut the car off. When it died it made a slightly different sound than normal, almost like it took it about half a second longer than normal to die but didnt sound bad or anything. I noticed becuse I pay attention to when it shuts down. After visiting for awhile I went to start my car and, no start. I rest the ECU and it started to chug but then cleard out and started to run normal. I drove into town and the coolent light and buz came on. I stopped to fill it up (we should all have coolent in the back of the car right next to the oil). I drove it home concerned and 6 miles later (going up driveway) the coolent light and buz came on again. Coolent was all over my motor (18k miles on motor), hasent started sense that day.

Hope your problem is nothing like mine. Moral of this story is your car is telling you something. I dont understand how new motors have such a long break in time. If I were to buy a FD brand new and it didnt want to start or flooded all the time I would take it back.

Resetting the ECU may fix your brop but it happend for a resone. I realy hope its something simple.

This one resone why I want to do the V8 conversion.

Sorry about the story.

Good luck

SVT

cavellm

I do have a small coolant leak, but nothing that serious. I've got a Power FC, so no resetting the ECU.

Changing the plugs was no dice. Neither was pulling the EGI fuse and attempting to crank it then.

I also bypassed the external relay to the fuel pump I have and wired power straight to the pump from the battery.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

i guess just go down the normal trouble shooting route

fuel
spark
compression

if you have those it should start