dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

Have done some searching. Looked over the remains of Steve's site and cannot seem what I am looking for. On the car I am redoing I have removed the AC. By remove I mean everything. The only thing that is left are the two alum. ends that traverse the firewall.

I remember reading a thread about someone who had a similar situation and after when he used his car the car would not even blow hot air and then someone saying that there was a specific part number for cars not equipped with AC.

I am sorry if my writing is slightly incomprehensible and any help on this issue would be appreciated as driving the FD here in Canada, you want a heater. If you are wondering I removed the AC because it did not have any freon left in it anyways and I didn't want anything blocking my radiator. Also, I never used it on my old FD anyways.

Thanks again,

Alex

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

That guy must have been me. When you remove the evaporater (underneath the glovebox), just open it up and gut out the radiator thing and put the plastic case back together. Now the case should be empty. Put that back up under the dash as this will allow for the blower to blow air through the gutted evaporater and into the heater core and then the air vents.......

Or search for my thread it is somewhere on here.

93FDADR

if you donot touch anything inside the car when you remove the AC the heat should still work properly

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Thank you.

What did you do with the stubs sticking out of the firewall? So what you are saying is that I don't have to "buy" any parts? I thought I remembered seeing a P/N......

Alex

daten

If they made rx7s without an AC there might be a plastic duct to replace the part of the AC system that is inside the car under the dash.

As already stated you can leave that installed, or remove it and put the empty box it sits in back under the dash. Both methods are free and will allow the heater to continue working.

It's easier to pull it out from under the dash if you remove your glove box first and unscrew the metal electronics boxes mounted under the glove box.

PDViper77

iTrader: (9)

No dont buy that $100 plastic shell . Total waste of money. Do what I said. As for the two holes and the lower drain hole. I just got some rubber gromlets and shoved them in pretty tight and then put a washer on both the cabin side and the engine side. Then I put a bolt through the middle and a nut on the other side so it would seal off. Got it???

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Got it

Perfect and I found your thread and re-read it thanks!

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Is the $100 plastic shell a U.S.-spec part? Anyone got the PN?

I know I could guy the piece that's there, but I like to save all of my stock parts in case.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I didn't touch anything under the dash, just removed everything under the hood, way back in like 2001 or so. The heat has always worked fine

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Man, you guys need to learn how to read the parts diagrams .

Part number is FD01-61-150b, it's about $38. It's the duct that goes from the blower motor to the heater core.

I bet if you dig through the parts diagrams you could also find the rubber blind covers that go over the 2 holes in the firewall that the evaporator uses.

Dale

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Damn, sometimes I think to myself there are some great people in this club.

Ok this whole Valentines thing is getting to me......

Railgun

Since no one answered this question on another thread, I'll ask it here again.

If you remove the evap core, why would the heat not work? Taking into account that there are holes left in the housing and those are properly plugged, it should still seal from the blower to the heater core. I'm I missing something here?

I just pulled mine as well and can't see why there would be any issues of the air not getting blown through the heater core.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Who needs heat?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I think I posted in that thread. If you remove the WHOLE evaporator, you basically lose the duct to the heater core from the blower motor. If you gut the evaporator case, it will work.

But, instead of gutting it, sell the perfectly good evaporator and get the Mazda duct. The duct is a far more elegant solution.

Dale

Railgun

Yeah...I think I get you now. Me saying removing = you saying gutting. Just semantics. I'll look at the duct though. Maybe it will give me a little extra space.

Thanks!

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Finally I removed everything and didn't touch anything under the dash and my heat works so well that driving the car outside in -20C with the heater not even on on fans my feet were sweating. Guess it is a someone has it someone doesn't problem.

Mr3plus1

iTrader: (5)

Why do you need to buy anything at all? The evaporator is encased in styrafoam inside a plastic casing. Open the casing, remove styrafoam wrapped evaporator, close casing back up. Its just gonna connect the ducting to everything else. Does the part for non-ac cars have some different kind of passage ways or what?

Railgun

Technically you don't. But after putting that under there, it's definitely a lot nicer. There are some holes that you'd need to plug on the evap housing otherwise you'll loose system pressure and the fan will just blow out those holes.

The piece for non-A/C cars is definitely smaller and much more efficient.

Romeallo

I admit I messed with things under the passenger glovebox , just trying to fix the coolant leak from somwhere inside my car . I have no coolant in my radiator

7krayziboi

iTrader: (15)

Holy thread bump