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Does that fit directly on the rest of the stock intake? Looks better, and its pretty cheap
Don't you really need to have the 99-spec bumper (genuine Mazda OEM, not an aftermarket plateless one) and reinforcement for the 99-spec air guide to work? It is drawing air from around the hood release area, the OEM 99-spec has an air channel behind the front licence plate to direct air to the hood latch area then to the intake. Without that, I don't see much air getting to the intake. I could be wrong and welcome a corrective comment - I have a 99-spec air guide and a plateless 99-spec bumper on my car, I have held off installing it as it seems like the air passage is pretty blocked off by the bumper reinforcement.
Also, trial fitting the air guide on my car, there was interference with the thickness of the upper IC fixing bolt - like the bushing was too thick - now, my car has a Biltz IC but I think the same issue will affect stock IC also.
Don't you really need to have the 99-spec bumper (genuine Mazda OEM, not an aftermarket plateless one) and reinforcement for the 99-spec air guide to work? It is drawing air from around the hood release area, the OEM 99-spec has an air channel behind the front licence plate to direct air to the hood latch area then to the intake. Without that, I don't see much air getting to the intake. I could be wrong and welcome a corrective comment - I have a 99-spec air guide and a plateless 99-spec bumper on my car, I have held off installing it as it seems like the air passage is pretty blocked off by the bumper reinforcement.
Also, trial fitting the air guide on my car, there was interference with the thickness of the upper IC fixing bolt - like the bushing was too thick - now, my car has a Biltz IC but I think the same issue will affect stock IC also.
All that said...Great thread!
There's still good air in there. The nose is a high pressure area and the air find a way. NTM, it enables you to isolate the IC duct.
I like this trend, the only thing I have to add is either the feed type or 99 Spec OEM side skirts. They really finish of the look.
Vince
I overlooked this. For those that want side skirts, 99Spec are a good option.
Originally Posted by Zepticon
Thanks for the pictures Im picky on parts that are in peoples face, so ill probably get a new one from mazda, if i dont get my hands on an AutoExe carbon intake instead Might "have" to get the 99-spec intercooler duct also then i guess
Bloody money swamp these cars <3
Or both i got some Feed style now, and i think i have to test the OEM 99-specs also.
Intercooler duct should have been on the list. But I didn't even know it was different!
Originally Posted by Narfle
I like the theme, just not sure what to add....
Does OEM-quality qualify?
It's not up to me to pass judgement. :P
But I think there's enough I missed in the OEM department to keep this thread going a little longer.
Originally Posted by hadokenny
I actually think it depends... oem side skirts throws off the balance of the car at certain angles. I actually prefer the side skirt less look due to smoother lines and cleaner look.
I get it. I think the recommendation Dale has below of pairing them with the rear mud flaps is a good one.
Originally Posted by $lacker
This thread inspired me to get a Homelink rear view mirror and Mazda Tribute wiper nozzles
Originally Posted by DaleClark
One thing many people goof up are the round tail lights and the later Y-pipe - these parts were introduced in 96, not 99.
Don't forget the 99 side skirts. They are on the heavy side but they look good. And the rear mud guards with it.
Also, the larger front and rear brakes from the 99+ cars.
You can even go REALLY nuts and try and do the later 4-channel ABS.
Dale
Yeah. I guess I use 99Spec as a colloquial term. Once I start saying "96Style" everyone's gonna say "wha? There was a 96 style too?!"
Can't believe I overlooked the YPipe... duh.
Side skirts with rear mud flaps are a good combo.
I think I mentioned the brakes. Although again, the 99Spec debate can be raised.
Question on the 4-Channel ABS. I believe this has been done by a couple people, but I've never actually heard much follow up to it. Is it "better"? Is it worth it? My understanding it that you actually need ABS parts from a 96-98 model. ABS underhood module, ABS CPU, and 4 wheel sensors. Of course, custom lines as well.
Originally Posted by Ceylon
Good point on the rear lights and y-pipe . Also the OEM side skirts were also available on much earlier JDM FD's, not sure exactly when they came in, but they were in the '93 options catalog. The larger brakes were also available from early on on all RZ models, some special editions and S8 RS models (And obviously the later RZ and Spirit R ). Even the auto Spirit R and the S8 type R & RB models have the smaller brakes .
That last iteration of the FD ABS still had a single brake line to the rear, so not sure how much of an upgrade it is over the earlier systems. Does look cool, though .
Also to add to the list would be the later brake booster and power steering system. Feedback is much better imo .
The later clusters really help make the interior look less dated, too.
I need some of those washer jets!
Thanks for the clarification on the brakes. I knew they were oddly assigned, but didn't know the specifics.
As for the ABS - do you know what year it went back to single rear line? This confirms my "mid-year" suspicion on the ABS upgrade.
I didn't realize the brake booster and PS system were different later on. Do you know specifically whats different? Would parts cross over to a USDM car?
GREAT point on the clusters. I've done this to every car I've owned - can't believe I overlooked it.
Originally Posted by 7-XR
Did they address the plastic AST and radiator seam cracking issues in the later years?
I'd probably still get an aluminum rad and delete the AST if I was going this route.
I know the 99's don't have a PCV valve anymore.
I believe the radiators (and fans, as mentioned) got an upgrade. Not sure about the AST. I also think an aftermarket radiator gets a pass, even on an OEM build.
Originally Posted by Narfle
I was pretty sure the round tail lights are 99spec. But, you're right about the y-pipe.
I also hear the rubber intake hoses were uprated to not suck shut in later models...
I've actually heard similar about the intake pipes, but don't know the differences.
Originally Posted by 7_rocket
Ordered the wiper nozzles on Friday.
Originally Posted by jza80
Don't you really need to have the 99-spec bumper (genuine Mazda OEM, not an aftermarket plateless one) and reinforcement for the 99-spec air guide to work? It is drawing air from around the hood release area, the OEM 99-spec has an air channel behind the front licence plate to direct air to the hood latch area then to the intake. Without that, I don't see much air getting to the intake. I could be wrong and welcome a corrective comment - I have a 99-spec air guide and a plateless 99-spec bumper on my car, I have held off installing it as it seems like the air passage is pretty blocked off by the bumper reinforcement.
Also, trial fitting the air guide on my car, there was interference with the thickness of the upper IC fixing bolt - like the bushing was too thick - now, my car has a Biltz IC but I think the same issue will affect stock IC also.
All that said...Great thread!
I don't know if you can connect the air guide to the USDM bumper support. I do know that the 99Spec Air Guide connects to the 99Spec Bumper reinforcement. I shoulda snapped a pic when I was doing mine.
But I think you bring up a good question... is the air guide for the radiator OR the intake? Or both?
Are you running the USDM bumper support or 99Spec?
Originally Posted by Narfle
There's still good air in there. The nose is a high pressure area and the air find a way. NTM, it enables you to isolate the IC duct.
Question on the 4-Channel ABS. I believe this has been done by a couple people, but I've never actually heard much follow up to it. Is it "better"? Is it worth it? My understanding it that you actually need ABS parts from a 96-98 model. ABS underhood module, ABS CPU, and 4 wheel sensors. Of course, custom lines as well.
Thanks for the clarification on the brakes. I knew they were oddly assigned, but didn't know the specifics.
As for the ABS - do you know what year it went back to single rear line? This confirms my "mid-year" suspicion on the ABS upgrade.
I didn't realize the brake booster and PS system were different later on. Do you know specifically whats different? Would parts cross over to a USDM car?
There is no FD ABS that runs separate lines to the rear brakes. I've been through all the revision manuals, so not sure where that came from originally .
The later brake booster is smaller, so less assisted, the power steering is also less assisted. The feedback is greatly improved I'd say. Both are strait swaps as I did it on my '93 car. However, you will need to modify the brake lines as the smaller booster will move the master cylinder back a bit.
I don't know if you can connect the air guide to the USDM bumper support. I do know that the 99Spec Air Guide connects to the 99Spec Bumper reinforcement. I shoulda snapped a pic when I was doing mine.
But I think you bring up a good question... is the air guide for the radiator OR the intake? Or both?
Are you running the USDM bumper support or 99Spec?
I have a USDM bumper support that has been modified to fit the aftermarket plateless 99-spec bumper. I think the air guide would work if there was a source of air to the hood release area, on my car the 99-spec air guide kind of covers the open area on either side of the hood release so if air was blowing in it would catch it. Maybe the UDSM bumper support could be further modified to open up a section below the hood release to force air in. I think the other problem with the I/C upper bolt bushing contacting the air guide could be solved with a thinner bushing.
I would be interested in knowing more about the 99-spec I/C duct, too!
There is no FD ABS that runs separate lines to the rear brakes. I've been through all the revision manuals, so not sure where that came from originally .
The later brake booster is smaller, so less assisted, the power steering is also less assisted. The feedback is greatly improved I'd say. Both are strait swaps as I did it on my '93 car. However, you will need to modify the brake lines as the smaller booster will move the master cylinder back a bit.
How about RHD vs LHD?
I assume since everything is swapped there might be *some* differences? If not, awesome.
So no other updates necessary for you at least? Just plug n chug?
Originally Posted by Mrmatt3465
The part numbers for the updated emblems...does that work with 93-95 bumpers?
I've been trying to track this one down but was uncsuccessful, new style mazda emblem center caps for oem wheels. Anyone ever try that one?
Matt
My only concern is the USDM wheels are 16in and the JDM are 17in. MAYBE you could find other 16in Mazda wheels / centercaps that fit the bill?
I really like the idea of this.
As someone else mentioned, it would slightly devalue my collector pristine stock version, but I'm tempted to anyway!
Keep all parts you take off, only add OEM or easily removable aftermarket stuff. Got several
boxes of stuff that im storing in case i want to put it back to how it came from the factory
Can reference the big 99-spec parts here for people who read:
HTML Code:
F138-50-031A Front Bumper Skin
F138-50-070B Bumper Reinforcement
F140-56-1B0A Under tray Splash guard
F138-50-AH1 Undertray Air Skirt
F138-51-9K1B Right front air skirt (lip)
F138-51-9L1B Left front air skirt (lip)
F138-43-63XB Right brake duct
F138-43-64XB Left brake duct
F138-50-A21 Air guide
F138-51-731 Front winged M emblem
F141-51-731A Rear winged M emblem
F138-51-060B Right front combo light
F138-51-070B Left front combo light
F138-51-680B Right fog light
F138-51-690B Left fog light
F132-51-170 Right rear tail light
F132-51-180 Left rear tail light
F132-37-190A Winged M center caps (you need four)
Can reference the big 99-spec parts here for people who read:
HTML Code:
F138-50-031A Front Bumper Skin
F138-50-070B Bumper Reinforcement
F140-56-1B0A Under tray Splash guard
F138-50-AH1 Undertray Air Skirt
F138-51-9K1B Right front air skirt (lip)
F138-51-9L1B Left front air skirt (lip)
F138-43-63XB Right brake duct
F138-43-64XB Left brake duct
F138-50-A21 Air guide
F138-51-731 Front winged M emblem
F141-51-731A Rear winged M emblem
F138-51-060B Right front combo light
F138-51-070B Left front combo light
F138-51-680B Right fog light
F138-51-690B Left fog light
F132-51-170 Right rear tail light
F132-51-180 Left rear tail light
F132-37-190A Winged M center caps (you need four)
Fantastic.
I forgot about the Undertray Air Skirt (F138-50-AH1) as well.
I really like the idea of this.
As someone else mentioned, it would slightly devalue my collector pristine stock version, but I'm tempted to anyway!
Yeah. It's a fine line. A collector of "cars" might see it in a dim light, but a collector of "RX-7s" or even "Japanese cars" probably wouldn't bat an eye.
Ya know. I was thiiiiiis close to adding those to the original post. I have them on my car and they are such a perfect add-on because really, the OEM falls short in that department. It's also just an unbranded piece of fiberglass really and would pass any OEM sniff test.
I had those R-Magic ducts on my last FD, fitted perfectly and I would like them on my current FD, but don't want to lose the factory fit fogs .
Regarding the brake booster. Good point, on a LHD car the vacuum hook up to the UIM will be on the wrong size, you could likely make it work, though? I believe the change was made in 95.
I'll try and find what exactly is changed in the PS system as I imagine it's only a single part that would need changing.
A couple of other small updates for consideration:
Install a 17” 99-spec (or RX-8) spare wheel and tire to work with your 99-spec big brakes (or some aftermarket big brake kits like Racing Brake)
Bypass the clutch safety switch to reduce voltage drop and eliminate a potential no-start failure path (this is a USNA and Canada system AFAIK due to liability concerns, so eliminating this circuit makes it work like “99-spec cars”)
A couple of other small updates for consideration:
Install a 17” 99-spec (or RX-8) spare wheel and tire to work with your 99-spec big brakes (or some aftermarket big brake kits like Racing Brake)
Bypass the clutch safety switch to reduce voltage drop and eliminate a potential no-start failure path (this is a USNA and Canada system AFAIK due to liability concerns, so eliminating this circuit makes it work like “99-spec cars”)
version 6 JDM (01-02 spec) actually reincorporated a clutch safety switch!
Why thank you sir! Don't forget those titanium hood props
Edit: I also have my antenna out for some body work so im definitely getting the s2k antenna! great thread!
Someone said that the antenna is just for AM, so you don't even need it if you only listen to FM
Still not sure if it's completely accurate, but that would be nice
02-25-17, 08:03 PM
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