streetlegal?

So I just finished up getting my FD running properly and was trying to get a better feel for what it is worth. I looked around on here for people selling cars similar but figured I would at least see what other people think.

93 RX7 Touring (Sunroof and single front oil cooler)
Has approximately 80k miles. I was unable to fix the odometer (details below) so this I cannot confirm 100%. I was told that by the previous owner that is what they were. Seems consistent with the carfax (which I have a copy of).
5 spd trans
1.3L Rotary with sequential twin turbos
Black Exterior
Tan Leather interior
The title was branded as rebuilt in IN.

It looks like the car was originally blue and was at some point repainted black (also seen on the carfax). The paint job is in great condition, however, quality wise I feel as though it was a quick and cheap paint job (Maco'ish if that makes sense. No jams, engine bay, hatch)
The interior is in fair condition. I replaced a lot of the interior panels and clips that were either missing or broken. I have a bunch of extra clips and such that I will include.
The seats do have a decent bit of wear to them but complete replacement seat covers (not just a cover actually replaces the material) are approximately $300 but there is a 3 week lead time IIRC
I refinished the center console as well because the texture was fading/coming off (common for the 93 interior)
The rear panel behind the passenger seat has a crack in the bottom part of it (covered by the seat when it's to the back)
The only panel I have not been able to locate to replace is the rear divider panel behind the seats in tan.

The previous owner was having overheating issues when I got the car and I had a few issues as well (inadequate radiator and wrong thermostat). Since then I have basically redone the entire cooling system. I am still getting the last few bubbles out of the system but I haven't had a lot of time to finish as I've been dealing with my other car. However, when I was burping it and whatnot I didn't get any of the champagne bubbling or small consistent bubbling that are associated with bad coolant seals so I'm relieved at that.

I may have forgotten a few things in the list below but I tried to be as thorough as possible.

I have a ton of pictures that I took of the car in general along with any imperfections that I could find. I uploaded what I feel are the ones that are the most helpful. If you want any more pictures of anything specific just ask and I will get them for you.

Some of the ones on here with clean titles, more miles, and less mods (but still modified to a point) seem to be going for 18-20.

Would a fair starting point of 15k be realistic?

Here's the mod info and whatnot

The things that were told to me that I haven't confirmed are:
-Excedy Twin Disc Clutch
-Cusco 1.5 way diff
-the tune by Steve Kan

Engine/Computer/fuel
-Tuned by Steve Kan making 375rwhp
-Greddy FMIC kit with new silicone couplers
-Chromed rear turbo inlet
-HKS Twin Power Ignition Module
-Banzai racing block off plates (emissions and other unneeded complexities removed)
-custom idler pulley for better water pump contact (needed when deleting air pump)
-vacuum line reduction (simplifying the rats nest) and all hoses replaced with silicone ones
-Power FC standalone ECU with Commander
-Beige Datalogit box
-Greddy DP and midpipe
-4in straightpipe after that to the back
-3 core aftermarket radiator and kept stock fans(better than most aftermarket and can control through the power FC)
-HKS turbo inlets
-walboro 255
-AC delete
-PS delete with loop method done the correct way
-New water pump
-New thermostat
-16lb radiator cap
-AST delete (FC style upper housing method)

Appearance/suspension
-Tein pro coilovers
-rays gram light wheels (18x9.5 rear and 17x9.5 fronts)
-RE rear diffuser
-R1 Front Lip
-Blended side vents
-Shaved rear hatch (spoiler holes and wiper hole, both welded)
-Rear window spoiler
-Aluminum door handles since the plastic ones break (still black)
-Aerocatch hood pins
-Hood struts
-LRB Aluminum Undertray
-Rewired turn signals (previously did not work)
-Led Turn signals
-Drilled and slotted rotors

Interior
-Fixed the power windows and power window switch
-I fixed the tach and Speedo since they are almost always broken (resoldered the entire board and replaced all the components basically)
Still can't get the odometer to work though but everything I've read says it's a ground issue. I've cleaned and redone all the grounds I could find and still can't get it to work
-Soldered in new resistor to eliminate the hyper flash caused by the LEDs in the turn signals
-Clarion flip up radio (currently removed)
-New rear hatch mat
-ASPX wideband with new bosch O2 sensor (wired to datalogit box to allow logging of the wideband) This might need to be re-calibrated but not sure.
-Glowshift Digital Boost gauge
-Battery (optima red top) has been relocated behind the passenger seat in the bin
-Re-polished aluminum side sills

Here's some pictures. A majority of them are from while I was still working on everything so if there are some things missing in the pictures I more than likely have them.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Just my opinion, but I think you would be luck to get 10 k for it.

Littleguy

iTrader: (5)

The problem is that with the salvage title and unknown mileage it isn't something that anyone is going to want to put a dime into. I hate to say it but that might make a better parts car than anything.

heynoman

iTrader: (5)

I agree with Adam and little guy I saw your post a few days ago and thought to myself 18k you be lucky to to get 10k and that was before I found out it had a rebuilt title. The car itself reminded me of a thread I went thru a little while back about how the best mods are de-mods. I think the car would have a better chance of selling if it didn't have such a long list of aftermarket parts. But then again you might get lucky and find someone who is into that kind of stuff either way GLWS.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

~13k IMO

streetlegal?

Ok. Thanks for the opinion (no sarcasm intended) I do appreciate the help.

I knew the rebuilt title wouldn't help and figured the mileage thing wouldn't help either. I was told the rebuilt title was issued due to an engine fire but I can't confirm that. However, from everything that I have seen on the frame and whatnot everything is straight. I didn't think the mileage would be as big of an issue since a lot of the clusters don't work anyways. I'll have to go through the rest of the interior grounds and see if I can get it working.

Well I knew I wasn't going to get 18k for it. I put it up that way on CL to keep the offers of 4k away (which by the way I got an offer of 4k this morning lol).

I really don't want to have to part out another car but I guess I could if I had to and then sell the roller to someone for an LS swap or 20B build.

Littleguy

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking that looking at it, would I want to spend the money the car needs go get it back into good shape, which is significant imo, and end up with a salvage title and unknown mileage. Now if the car was sitting there perfect with a salvage title and unknown mileage that would be a different thing. If the work needs to be done anyways, may as well buy a good roller with a clean title and move over all of the usable parts.

streetlegal?

I'm just curious as to what you consider as a significant amount of work to get it back into good shape? I guess I'm not seeing anything major that needs to be done. The pictures that I posted were in the middle of fixing it when I had a lot of parts removed. The only pieces that I know are missing are the rear divider and the passenger inner door handle.

Was able to fire it up and drive it to my shop last night in case I have to have it over the winter and it ran beautifully.

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

Don't spend a dime improving that car. It will be money wasted. Salvage title is going to keep the value of that car down. Prices on clean stock original cars are due to collectability; salvage title cars are not the cars that fetch the money.
The car isn't awful, it just shows it's age. It's a car for someone who loves the FD and can only afford an entry level car. Makes someone a fun driver, nothing more. Nothing wrong with that, it is what it is. Fire sale it and move on. Not even worth parting as the interior is rough, it's a 93 and tan. Mileage unknown and inoperative, salvage... if it runs and drives 10-13k depending on how well it actually runs.

Moe Greene

iTrader: (2)

this ^

WANKfactor

iTrader: (1)

Great plates!

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Because of the repaint I'd suggest placing a fridge magnet all over the car and checking for bondo.

Usually shows up in the hips (high and low), doors and b pillar area.

I agree with everyone here. 10k and that's if the engine is truly good. I'd still be worried about a bad coolant seal if I was purchasing so I'd also recommend pressure testing it which is the only way you will know.

If the engine holds pressure then I'd compression test it and post results.

I'd say part it but I don't think you'll get enough (max 17k and it will be take over a year/lots of work)

GLWS!

Brilliant7-LFC

iTrader: (7)

Guys this thread was over a year old...lol

But, since ZoomZoom pulled the ol' revival...I'd agree with another poster's remarks: buy a clean roller and swap everything over, if it's running real well and you can do the work yourself, then it makes sense to me. It'd be tough to find a good running, clean 7 for $8k which should be about the most you'd spend on a clean roller.

From there, you sell the salvage roller for maybe $3k and the whole thing cost you $5k but you've got a car worth over $15k to $18k now if everything is tip top...?

Next, just hang on to it and allow it to appreciate as they have done over the past several years.

According to Hagerty, the RX-7 is worth more now, than ever (apart from when New of course). And, when you look at the marketplace, you'll be hard pressed to find a clean FD with good mods for less than $20k.

Thats why i say: swap the parts, enjoy the car and sit on it.

Nick