trickster

I will try to provide as much detail as I can in order to get the best advice. I've been working on swapping an s4/s5 turbo engine into my 87 gxl and have had some problems along the way but now I am having trouble getting it to start. The engine is an s5 block with s4 externals and an N332 ecu.

Along the way I have installed a walbro 255lph fuel pump, new spark plugs, new spark wires, replace the trailing coil pack. I have determined that it has spark and fuel, have checked ignition timing, have smoke tested and fixed vacuum leaks, adjusted TPS and have a bit of confusion with the idle set screw.

When I first had the engine in I could get it to start but only keep it on by pumping the gas to keep it from stalling and the idle was very rough with an irratic throttle response. After that I found two vacuum leaks, the failed T2 spark, and replaced the missing adjustment screw for the TPS.

Here is a video of the engine staying on by working the gas pedal:
I was revving to around 3-4k rpm in the video and it was dropping nearly to stall

After that I tried to raise the idle set screw thinking that must be the only thing keeping it from idling and I managed to get it to idle at 3000 rpm once, 1000 rpm once, and then nothing since then. I've tried adjusting the idle set screw up and down but cannot get it to start. It's been most likely flooded at times like this because I was used to having to press on the gas while cranking in order to get it to start and with the idle raised with the set screw I assume I provides too much gas with the pedal. Fuel was leaking out of the turbo/Downpipe area after trying to get it to start for a while



If you've seen my thread at all in the general rotary help section you'll know that I had issues with the car not turning off due to the alternator not having been rewired but now I have fixed that and am less afraid of getting the car to stay on haha. I also had a problem with car shorting out when trying to start but that problem has now gone away after the rewiring.

I tried to start it yesterday and it sounded like it was starting to get going a couple of times. I suspected the battery was low and charged it up then tried again but this time it did not sound as though it was trying to start, just cranking. In between each bit of trying I pulled the green EGI INJ fuse and cranked it to try and unflood it. I noticed a bit of fuel dripping below the exhaust manifold area after I was done.

So my first question is does my car have the correct fuel injectors? As I said I have an s5 block with s4 externals.

On rotary resurrection it states:

"Year type impedance plug style plug notch position flow rating color part number 84-85 13B NT low square center 680cc orange 195500-0900 86-87 13B NT low square center 460cc red 195500-1350 86-87 13B T low square center 550cc tan 195500-1370 88 13B NT high square offset 460cc purple 195500-1350 88 13b T high square offset 550cc purple 195500-1370 89-91 13B NT high oval center 460cc red 195500-2010 89-91 13B T high oval center 550cc purple 195500-2020 "

Here is a photo that I originally took of the fuel lines where you can see the injectors.



I believe those are red. So show I have the purple 550cc injectors since it is an s5 block or should I have tan since it has s4 externals or is it correct that I currently have red 460cc? Could this be the problem causing my engine to not run?

Thanks a lot in advance for reading through all of this.

HRnico

iTrader: (7)

The Tan 550 injectors go with the N332 ECU. Use a syringe and put 1 oz of engine oil in each rotor housing to build some compression. And a fresh set pf spark plugs

trickster

Thanks. I guess I will wait first to get the new fuel injectors and once I install them I'll try injecting the oil with new spark plugs.

Does anyone know if the wrong fuel injectors that I have would cause it to not start or would it just run poorly?

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Which ecu do you have?

trickster

n332

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

All ECU's expect high impedance.

That means you can use:

High impedance injectors, without resistor blocks
or
Low impedance injectors, with resistor blocks

The resistor blocks make the low impedance injectors "look" like high impedance to the ECU.

Failure to run one of these two options will cause the car to run bad and can damage the ECU (especially in the case of running low imp without resistor blocks)


Are you using the high or low impedance 460 cc injectors?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

where are you in ONT?

trickster

Based on feedback I got on the image of the injectors I posted on Instagram, I currently have high inductance injectors and I am supposed to have low inductance injectors which means that I don't have the damaging option of the two cases because I have the resistor pack.

Correct me If I'm wrong but I assume the ecu emits a pulse of current to the injectors telling them how much or how often to inject fuel. With the high resistance injectors that are currently in my car they are detecting a much lower current than they are supposed to. I don't know how they actually work, but assuming the injectors take minimum current as meaning give out max fuel, then that would explain why I am having an overload of fuel to the point that it is leaking out the exhaust and pooling under the car. Again, this is all guessing.

I've ordered the new injectors and they should come next week. I hope that this will cause the engine to stop flooding so easily and get the engine to start.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure high imp. Injectors require less amp to fire, and vice versa.

Read

http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/faqs

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

That link sucks. This one is better.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/h...uel_injectors/

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Careful. Not all 87's have the resistor block. Later on, they switched to high imped. injectors.

See if you have the resistor block below the air filter box, mounted to the chassis.

BTW, the injectors are fed constant 12V with ignition on. The ECU only grounds them for the pulse.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

... tiny pic lol...

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can use your multimeter to test the ohms of the injectors. If you did have high impedance injectors and the resistor box then you don't need new injectors but all you would have to do is bypass the resistor box (which is rather easy to do).

trickster

Yes I do have the resistor pack

trickster

I was wondering if I could do this but I ordered anyways to get the correct 550 cc size

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you purchased them from a store you can just return them. The resistor box has a plug to it which features five wires. One is B/Y and the rest are Brown. Splice all five wires together and the box is bypassed.

trickster

But is it important to have the correct 550 cc instead of 460 cc?

trickster

That's a good tip regardless to try and get it running in the mean time, thanks

trickster

We'll I tried cutting out the resistor pack and splicing the 5 wires together but it wouldn't start, still sounds like no fuel or flooded but I know it's got it. Tomorrow I'll try again after removing and checking the spark plugs, and putting some oil in. Not sure what other options to try?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Try 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid in the intake w/the circuit opening relay pulled. The car should start for a few seconds before dying (if it briefly starts then you know you have spark). If it does this then do the starter fluid trick one more time followed by plugging the relay back in and try to start the car normally.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Check compression

trickster

<<<@!1!@>>>

Compression test videos:

Rotor 2 holding release valve: Rotor 2 release valve closed:
Rotor 1 holding release valve: Rotor 1 release valve closed:

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Looks ok.

Did you try the starter fluid?

trickster

Yes trying the starter fluid right now, spraying into AFM with WOT and the circuit opening relay. Sounds like it tried to start a couple of times. White smoke coming out of the exhaust.

Tried with circuit opening relay plugged back in and still spraying. Car didn't really sound like it was trying to start or anything should I still be doing WOT?

Also tried without spraying and didn't really start.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Pull ur plugs and see what they look like.

If they're wet, pull them all out, pull your Injector fuse, crank engine for 10 seconds at a time with 30 second breaks in between until fuel vapor stops coming out.

Clean and dry plugs, reinstall.

Reinstall injector fuse.

Try to start car with no throttle.

Try starting with starter fluid.