Radorix

So I just picked up a 88 turbo 2 and I got it running from a flooded state pretty quickly so I went ahead and temp tagged it so I could test drive it to see what else I needed only so much you can do in the back yard.

Anyway I took her down the road tonight and need help with a few things kind of information overload and tons of dead links

Looking for info on checking the map n318 sensor I can't find the info and I know I saw it before I'm getting no reading on the factory gauge and there is a little black box installed inline with the pressure sensor with no writing that if I remove the car won't start

I've seen rumors of wiring up GM 2 bar maps my buddy and I are both good at small control system programming ( he does HVAC I do home automation) anyone have wiring guides for that? The fuel cut defencers has anyone ever taken one apart to actually do is it just a map clamp or is it more

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

that little black box is your engine grenader box, having it on there pretty much guarantees that your engine will pop sooner or later. its an FCD, ie it tricks your boost signal to the ECU and sends a lesser signal so the ECU won't hit fuel cut, this also messes with your boost gauge. you can't wire up a different type of pressure sensor, GM sensors are only 3 wire where the denso has a 4 wire feedback system that also goes through the barometric sensor as well iirc.

the stock pressure sensors rarely fail, but the engine harness grounds can cause the signal to be faulty, so can corroded terminals.

if i were you i would remove the FCD and plug the original plug back into your pressure sensor and see if the gauge comes to life(it won't read anything until you hit moderate to high loads).

also an idea of where your wall is, RPM and load wise would help. an auxiliary boost gauge for reference would be helpful.

Radorix

Alternator also was loose I noticed it while looking around after the fact. Heard a squeaky belt and the alternator one was pretty warm while the other were still cold. So add that the the loose battery terminals I discovered afterwards I'd say the fireball streak was spark blowout. I will try and tighten everything up tmmw after work that I noted as loose it was already dark after I got home from the DMV and I know the plugs and wires are good I just replaced them

Wasn't rpm based it was totally load based I'll get it figured out and hopefully get some real gauges hooked up soon as we look just looking for a good firewall location I'm planning on mounting the truboost and failsafe in the upper radio location

Did that box come with the racing beat exhaust he had on there?

Radorix

OK it is making boost and the gauge is working it's doesn't display vacuum quite like I expected. However the car is breaking up when it hits boost I'll try and get the boost controller and wideband on asap. Sounds like I'm hitting a spark or fuel cut once it hits boost. Only mods I've seen are the racing beat exhaust and the black box connected to the map. Wonder if it's overboosting far enough that it's blowing on the spark? Guess I'll find out

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Out've curiosity, what kind of exhaust is on it?

Radorix

A racing beat I don't know from

lduley

iTrader: (1)

You may want to measure your pipe

Radorix

OK have had some time to put more I to the project. Car is now titled and tagged passed inspection etc. No comes the fun.

Since I last posted I've been working to get some gauges on as well. Looks like the car is completely stock minus the racing beat 3 inch turbo back exhaust fcd and emissions and air pump delete.

My problem seems to be this the turbo is spooling way past stock levels with this current setup and obviously it runs lean once it starts hitting the higher levels. I'm currently just using my Aem truboost to monitor levels and the peak recall is showing upwards of 10-13psi up to about 6-7 psi the AFR is in the 10.5-11.5 range but once it exceeds this it's more in the 13 -14 range and isn't safe spools very fast past the unsafe range.

Now from what I'm reading this is a design flaw in the wastegate for the cars. Im not liking the port and weld option seems awfully unsafe with all the heat and dissimilar metals involved. Which I guess leaves me to aftermarket external setups or just straight upgrading the turbo.

Now fuel and control I do have a good friend who has a safc2 sitting on a shelf but I'm a bit confused on injectors I see they are 550cc stock but 88s use some kind of different clip what size Injectors would people usually go for in the secondarys around 8-12 psi range . Would you change primary injectors an as well if the idle to greater about 6 psi seems fine on the afrs?

These are return rail from what I'm reading correct??

I'm just trying to make the car safe to drive and fix the problems that were inherited before they cause big damage.
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RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

remember what i said about that little engine grenader box?


yeah....


keep tugging at the pin, sooner or later you will get the result.


start by porting the wastegate and get boost down.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

listen to the man above me^^^ he's already told you how to save your engine.

Radorix

Don't worry I've already purchased the real way to fix it. External wastegate and a haltech ECU I'm sorry but the porting of the stock wastegate is asking for issues. This isn't a daily driver

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i keep hearing people say that, and no clue why. i guess some people don't know how to port properly.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

exactly , you should be able to port the wastegate large enough to not have boost creep

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

maybe a little creep, depending on mods, but with a stock CHRA/wheels the wastegate can be ported enough to keep boost down below 9-10psi where any higher the stock fuel system can't keep up any longer.

stock boost cut is 7.5psi, and has saved a few engines from early demise, even if it was poorly implemented.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

yeah I suppose with a full3 " with a fart can you would, but if it has the full RB ehxuast ( including there resonated center section) he should be able to control it.

Jimmy2222

iTrader: (3)

For future reference, not sure if you have come across this yet, it's a bit dated, but still relative in more than one instance.
FC3S Pro v2.0 - 2nd Generation RX-7 Turbo Specialists!