86rxNa

Found a few threads on this none that have helped yet. So i had to reroute the crankcase ventilation hoses back to: lower iron port capped and upper vent to air. Car starts fine again but now after the last deflood my cluster guages died. I then replaced a blown meter fuse which did not bring them back on. did i possibly fry the cluster? my blinkers and speedo work and the lights but that should be separate from the tack, batt, temp guages. Is there a reset button on the fuse box that would trip for these circuits? I'm stumped and its raining out so what you got for me....

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Meter fuse allows voltage to power the Black/Yellow wire which is the source of voltage to the gauges. If the fuse was doing its job then the B/Y wire at the largest CPU plug would have 12 volts w/key to on. Does it?

86rxNa

By largest CPU plug are you talking about the big plug under dash or the plugs coming off ecu? Think I got a pick of the under dash one.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Just because a plug is large does not mean it plugs into the CPU. Secondly, the CPU and ECU are two different items. The CPU (Black in color and it should have FB-?? printed on it) is fastened to the driver kick panel area right near the interior fusebox. CPU has a few plugs w/one being the largest, has about 12 wires or so.

Pic of CPU in post #5 far right picture.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...erence-671004/

86rxNa

So I backprobed the B/Y wire at CPU plug. It showed .21 volts w/key on. It was the plug on top that black box in that pic.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure you used a good ground source? There is a solid Black wire in the same plug which is a ground wire. You might want to retest the B/Y wire once again using the Black wire as the ground for the meter. If you still get the same reading then you need to make sure the Meter fuse is still good and that both sides of the fuse have 12 volts w/key to on. And you could also pull the fuse and only one side would have 12 volts w/key to on.

86rxNa

I retested the top with same results. The bottom side I can't get to. I found a thread in looking through now about the meter fuse. Oh and meter fuse was still not blown and has not since I checked it the 1st time. So weird.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Meter fuse is in the middle of the fusebox so how is it possible to measure only one side of the tangs? The fuse has two teeth which are inserted into the slot and the tangs grab each tooth. If you can measure one then you can measure both. Also, if you look at the fuse close up you will notice that there are two holes in the top and these are so you can measure each side of the fuse.

86rxNa

Ok I will check that.

86rxNa

Can't check the fuse till I get off, but I also have no heat. Didnt realize it was part of meter fuse if it is. So I'm guessing its not the cluster.

86rxNa

Ok so I measured both sides of the fuse and only 1 side shows 12.6 volts the other side showed .12 or .21. I used the neg batt terminal for the ground when I tested it with the multimeter.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Do you know how to do a continuity test. If so, then check the continuity on the fuse. If there isn't continuity then the fuse is no good. If the fuse has continuity then the side of the fuse slot that has no voltage is faulty or the B/Y wire connected to it on the backside of the box is disconnected.

86rxNa

I had a couple of fuses I tried to see if it was the fuse itself with no luck. I checked a few times to make sure I had the right one(7.5amp for meter fuse slot). It was the top fuse prong slot which was reading low. If this is the problem can a fuse slot be repaired? Hopefully it is just unhooked somehow.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You still need to test the fuse using a continuity test to prove w/o a doubt that the fuse is good.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if the fuse is registering 12v on one side and near 0v on the other then you either aren't testing it with a good connection or your fuses are just bad.

86rxNa

Let me correct my post, in the first line I meant the fuse slot is what I was testing not the actual fuse. As far as continuity testing I don't have a clue. And I have extra fuses which are new that I have tried, so fuse should be fine. I can test it if u really insist to eliminate it for sure.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuse plays the role of a bridge as it joins two separate entities together so if you pull the fuse and test the slot then it is rather impossible for both sides to have voltage. Understand? The role of the fuse takes voltage from one side and allows the other side to receive it. Now place the fuse in the slot and please use the openings in the top of the slot to check both sides. Oye!!

86rxNa

Are u saying I can take measurements with fuse in and with probes hooked up to the little opening on top of fuse? Never saw these openings before, very nice. Also I tried checking continuity on fuse. Idk if this is right.

satch

iTrader: (1)

This was stated in post #8. Correct?

86rxNa

Yup sure is, I missed that sorry. Ty all for your help I really do appreciate the time you guys take. I have been reading so much in this forum and learning a ton. Keep feeding me!

86rxNa

Ok so I just went and tested it right with the fuse in and yes there is 12.14v on both sides. Gonna recheck that B/Y wire too.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

try smacking the gauge hood with the key on(top of the dash).

86rxNa

Just gave her 5 good whacks, still no luck.

satch

iTrader: (1)

And what about the B/Y wire at the CPU's largest plug?????????????????????????

86rxNa

I haven't forgot, just had got to my car when I posted. Been super busy. Tomorrow morning I will get a correct reading on it.