Porting Intake Manifolds - HOW TO and REACTIONS.
05-13-02, 10:55 PM
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Porting Intake Manifolds - HOW TO and REACTIONS.
Ok, I just ported my intake manifolds. Here is the HOW TO. This was done on a '90 N/A. It was done by Protege Menace and myself. Make sure you have a free-flowing exhaust to see full gains. We did this over a weekend, from about 2pm to midnight, with dinner and laziness breaks . Total time spent porting was about 5 hours, rest of the time was taking off/puttin on the manifolds.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
-Scribe
-Pliers, both needle nose and regular.
-Phillips and Flat head screwdrivers
-Ratchet
-10, 12 and 17mm sockets and wrenches
-Extensions (swivel head sockets help too, but not neccessary)
-10 and 12mm wrenches
-Power Corded Drill
-Air compressor or just compressed air
-Garden hose
-Engine degreaser/carb cleaner/brake cleaner
-Sandpaper (optional)
-Gaskets for all the manifolds (if they're old)
--SPECIAL DRILL BIT. I got this one from the Home Depot for about $6. It has TEETH on the sides that will dig into and saw away at most metals. It worked VERY well for porting, much better than a dremel. Also, it did not heat up or melt the aluminum, the aluminum was cool to the touch all the time. It is also coated with Titanium-Nitride (I think our ROTOR HOUSINGS are coated with the same, or similar stuff). After 5+ hours of porting, they showed no signs of wear either
.
They look like this and say "The drill bit that thinks it's a saw!"
WHAT TO DO:
Remove your throttle body, dynamic chamber, and intake manifolds. If your not familiar with this, you man not wanna continue. You can follow the HAYNES or FSM on how to do this. You can label everything if you don't have a good tim0e memorizing where all the tubes, hoses, fittings, and wires went. ALL of the nuts/bolts are either 10/12mm, with the oil injectors (on intake manifold) being 17mm. Use the pliers for hoses and hose clamps. Stubborn vac tubes can come off with some twisting and pulling action, but be careful as they rip easily . I'm not going anymore into detail on how to do this... just follow the manual.
*Note* now that you have all this stuff off, if you live in warmer climates, you may wanna do the TB mod. See RETed's page for the how to on that. Also, clean out your EGR valve, it's most likely clogged.
-----------PORTING: ---------------
There are some definate places where the airflow is restriced. I will try to list all the places i ported, linking pics to MAZDASPEED7's site (alas i had no digicam when doing this )
---Throttle Body ---
You can remove the double throttle plates (or do the full TB mod) here. Just take a FLATHEAD (yes i know the screws are phillips, but they WILL strip) and removed the 4 screws through the double plates that DO NOT have a single plate under them (dont move when you hand turn the throttle). Then take a needle-nose pliers and remove the small cotter pin on the intake manifold at the end of the rod holding these plates. You should then be able to slide the link off of it and remove the plates and rod. You can then tap 1/8NPT into the hole where the rod was and put a bolt in there with some sealant to block it off. - GAIN - Improved throttle response and 1-2 high RPM hp.
*DO NOT MESS WITH ANY OF THE PRIMARY THROTTLE SETTINGS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING, OR YOU WILL HAVE HORRIBLE IDLE PROBLEMS.* (this means dont do anything other than the TB mod or remove the plates like how i said )
---TOP part of dynamic chamber manifolds---
I did no porting here. Using water flow and high pressure air, it seems to be as smooth as it needs to. If you do port, do so at your own risk.
---VDI/Extension/Lower Dynamic Chamber manifold (the middle one)---
Here's where it begins. On the top end (goes to the TOP part that says "13B Injection on it" **GOES TO, NOT THE "13B INJECTION" ONE ITSELF** Notice that the gastek is slightly bigger than the two middle holes. This is because the air flow from bigger --> Smaller. Take a scribe and trace the gasted markings as a boundry. Take the drill and postition the bit against the wall you're porting and fire it up. Apply moderate pressure and work by SLIDING the drill up and down to go "in" deeper, but move it side to side to KEEP THE PORTING EVEN. Otherwise, you will end up with "ruts" or uneven "valleys" on the edge --instead of a smooth circle. This should take about 20-30 mins, go SLOWLY and steadily, if you think you're going too thin or are gonna poke a hole in the metal, STOP. Use common sense and judgement. When it's finished, it'll look something like IMAGE A.
NEXT, flip that sucker over and notice the 4 holes that go to the LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD (LIM). Take the gasket off the LIM (if it's stuck there) and match it to the the part you're working on now. You will notice that the lower intake has BIGGER holes. ONLY scribe the middle two. Port these in the same manner as you did on the other side of this manifold. about 20-30 mins. Now, for the outer 2 holes. These should be made MUCH bigger. Poke your finger in there and trace the contours, notice that you can port it so the air "cuts the corner." This is what you will be doing. But first, note the 2 honneycomb injector atomizers (reddish in color). you WILL break these off, so just go ahead and snap them off, there is no other way. DONT WORRY, at 3800RPM (when they open), they air velocity is high enough to properly atomize the fuel (I know, i'm your ginneapig for this project
). Also notice, the holes for the injjectors are squarish, not very flow friendly. We will be porting these to be more rounded.
RECAP, On the top, gaket match the middle 2 holes. On the bottom, you make the middle 2 bigger, "egg-shape" the outter 2, and grind down the injector holes. This manifold will take the most time. Possibly several hours if you work nice and evenly (recommended). Once again USE COMMON SENSE AND GOOD JUDGEMENT O THIS. It will look like this IMAGE B.
- GAIN - ~7-12hp
---LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD---
Keep the middle holes the same here. Remember, you just matched the above manifold to these, larger, holes. However, in one of the middle holes there is a small bump. Simply grind that away. NEXT, take the gasket (if you can) and put it on the manifold that goes ABOVE the LIM. Cut away the excess gastek on the outer 2 holes so that you have a nice template of the "egg" shape. Now you can scribe this egg shape onto the LIM and port it. Just imagine air flowing through and use good judement. BE CAREFUL when moving the drill up and down here, as you MAY dig into the 6-port rods, you MAY wanna take them out for safety, but the screws holding them in are VERY tight and may strip
. This will take another hour or so. -GAIN- 5+ hp.
It will look like IMAGE C.
You can then use the SANDPAPER to smooth out anything you wish, this will take a long time though, no explaining, pretty self explanitory.
Clean up:
Take your favorite air compressor and blow out all the aluminum shavings from the manifolds (dont want those going in the engine now do we... ). But that's not enough, there will still be some of it stuck in there to the gunk and what have you. So take some engine degreaser or carb cleaner or brake cleaner, it doesnt matter, they ALL cut grease, and spray it in there. Let it sit for 10-15 mins and then force water through the manifolds throroughly to get all the shavings/gunk out. Then blast it with some more air for a long time to spray out all the water. Allow enough time to dry.
Once everything is ported and cleaned to your liking. Reassemble the whole mess, be sure to use new gaskets. Here again, follow the manual.
AND YOUR DONE!
REACTION:
After doing this, I noticed the car had a nice, somewhat lumpy idle. It was slightly deeper in tone and seemed almost "787B-ish" (if you've ever heard it idling). Idle was raised to around 1k, but operating temperature was still a steady 174*F.
Took it for a test drive
. All I can say is WOW! Fist off, the throttle response is incredible above 3,500 RPMs. Below that, it kinda bogs, but there is more than enough useable torque. Then engine makes a NICE sucking noise on WOT, almost sounds like a turbo, ALMOST. As for power, there is really no increase until 5,500RPMs. Here, there is a great feeling of being sucked into your seat and it makes power ALL THE WAY up to redline, you really can't feel it drop off anymore. In the shift from 1st to 2nd, i lost control of the rear end and fishtailed slightly but it was alright. So basically, high end power is improved, to the point where you can actually feel it. At least 15-20 CRANK hp, which translates to 12-17 RWHP. The peak power moves VERY near to redline (8k on my car) or even slightly after. STOCK internals should not be revving that high, BUT you have power all the way there, making it a faster car.
However, I think that you will only see 5-9 RWHP without a free-flowing exhaust. For the money ($6 for a bit, maybe more if you need gaskets), it's definately worth it. With VERY good driving, it should take off .2-.3 seconds on the 1/4 mile, bringing you into the low-mid 15's for a 89-91 N/A (with BPU mods in addition to this porting of course, and all parts like 6-ports working and well tuned) and high 15's to low 16's in a 86-88.
And of course the 4 DOWNSIDES I found.
-SMALL loss of low end torque, maybe 3-5 ft-lbs.
-Raised idle to around 1k
-Louder
-Exhaust fumes will kill small animals
Anyone else who has done this please post your reactions too!
Everyone else, feel free to ask questions, flame, provide input or whatever. (WOW this took a while to type).
PS- ALL manifold images are linked from MAZDASPEED7's webpage, mine looked exactly or near exactly the same. You can visit his homepage here
WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
-Scribe
-Pliers, both needle nose and regular.
-Phillips and Flat head screwdrivers
-Ratchet
-10, 12 and 17mm sockets and wrenches
-Extensions (swivel head sockets help too, but not neccessary)
-10 and 12mm wrenches
-Power Corded Drill
-Air compressor or just compressed air
-Garden hose
-Engine degreaser/carb cleaner/brake cleaner
-Sandpaper (optional)
-Gaskets for all the manifolds (if they're old)
--SPECIAL DRILL BIT. I got this one from the Home Depot for about $6. It has TEETH on the sides that will dig into and saw away at most metals. It worked VERY well for porting, much better than a dremel. Also, it did not heat up or melt the aluminum, the aluminum was cool to the touch all the time. It is also coated with Titanium-Nitride (I think our ROTOR HOUSINGS are coated with the same, or similar stuff). After 5+ hours of porting, they showed no signs of wear either
.They look like this and say "The drill bit that thinks it's a saw!"
WHAT TO DO:
Remove your throttle body, dynamic chamber, and intake manifolds. If your not familiar with this, you man not wanna continue. You can follow the HAYNES or FSM on how to do this. You can label everything if you don't have a good tim0e memorizing where all the tubes, hoses, fittings, and wires went. ALL of the nuts/bolts are either 10/12mm, with the oil injectors (on intake manifold) being 17mm. Use the pliers for hoses and hose clamps. Stubborn vac tubes can come off with some twisting and pulling action, but be careful as they rip easily . I'm not going anymore into detail on how to do this... just follow the manual.
*Note* now that you have all this stuff off, if you live in warmer climates, you may wanna do the TB mod. See RETed's page for the how to on that. Also, clean out your EGR valve, it's most likely clogged.
-----------PORTING: ---------------
There are some definate places where the airflow is restriced. I will try to list all the places i ported, linking pics to MAZDASPEED7's site (alas i had no digicam when doing this )
---Throttle Body ---
You can remove the double throttle plates (or do the full TB mod) here. Just take a FLATHEAD (yes i know the screws are phillips, but they WILL strip) and removed the 4 screws through the double plates that DO NOT have a single plate under them (dont move when you hand turn the throttle). Then take a needle-nose pliers and remove the small cotter pin on the intake manifold at the end of the rod holding these plates. You should then be able to slide the link off of it and remove the plates and rod. You can then tap 1/8NPT into the hole where the rod was and put a bolt in there with some sealant to block it off. - GAIN - Improved throttle response and 1-2 high RPM hp.
*DO NOT MESS WITH ANY OF THE PRIMARY THROTTLE SETTINGS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING, OR YOU WILL HAVE HORRIBLE IDLE PROBLEMS.* (this means dont do anything other than the TB mod or remove the plates like how i said )
---TOP part of dynamic chamber manifolds---
I did no porting here. Using water flow and high pressure air, it seems to be as smooth as it needs to. If you do port, do so at your own risk.
---VDI/Extension/Lower Dynamic Chamber manifold (the middle one)---
Here's where it begins. On the top end (goes to the TOP part that says "13B Injection on it" **GOES TO, NOT THE "13B INJECTION" ONE ITSELF** Notice that the gastek is slightly bigger than the two middle holes. This is because the air flow from bigger --> Smaller. Take a scribe and trace the gasted markings as a boundry. Take the drill and postition the bit against the wall you're porting and fire it up. Apply moderate pressure and work by SLIDING the drill up and down to go "in" deeper, but move it side to side to KEEP THE PORTING EVEN. Otherwise, you will end up with "ruts" or uneven "valleys" on the edge --instead of a smooth circle. This should take about 20-30 mins, go SLOWLY and steadily, if you think you're going too thin or are gonna poke a hole in the metal, STOP. Use common sense and judgement. When it's finished, it'll look something like IMAGE A.
NEXT, flip that sucker over and notice the 4 holes that go to the LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD (LIM). Take the gasket off the LIM (if it's stuck there) and match it to the the part you're working on now. You will notice that the lower intake has BIGGER holes. ONLY scribe the middle two. Port these in the same manner as you did on the other side of this manifold. about 20-30 mins. Now, for the outer 2 holes. These should be made MUCH bigger. Poke your finger in there and trace the contours, notice that you can port it so the air "cuts the corner." This is what you will be doing. But first, note the 2 honneycomb injector atomizers (reddish in color). you WILL break these off, so just go ahead and snap them off, there is no other way. DONT WORRY, at 3800RPM (when they open), they air velocity is high enough to properly atomize the fuel (I know, i'm your ginneapig for this project
). Also notice, the holes for the injjectors are squarish, not very flow friendly. We will be porting these to be more rounded. RECAP, On the top, gaket match the middle 2 holes. On the bottom, you make the middle 2 bigger, "egg-shape" the outter 2, and grind down the injector holes. This manifold will take the most time. Possibly several hours if you work nice and evenly (recommended). Once again USE COMMON SENSE AND GOOD JUDGEMENT O THIS. It will look like this IMAGE B.
- GAIN - ~7-12hp
---LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD---
Keep the middle holes the same here. Remember, you just matched the above manifold to these, larger, holes. However, in one of the middle holes there is a small bump. Simply grind that away. NEXT, take the gasket (if you can) and put it on the manifold that goes ABOVE the LIM. Cut away the excess gastek on the outer 2 holes so that you have a nice template of the "egg" shape. Now you can scribe this egg shape onto the LIM and port it. Just imagine air flowing through and use good judement. BE CAREFUL when moving the drill up and down here, as you MAY dig into the 6-port rods, you MAY wanna take them out for safety, but the screws holding them in are VERY tight and may strip
. This will take another hour or so. -GAIN- 5+ hp. It will look like IMAGE C.
You can then use the SANDPAPER to smooth out anything you wish, this will take a long time though, no explaining, pretty self explanitory.
Clean up:
Take your favorite air compressor and blow out all the aluminum shavings from the manifolds (dont want those going in the engine now do we... ). But that's not enough, there will still be some of it stuck in there to the gunk and what have you. So take some engine degreaser or carb cleaner or brake cleaner, it doesnt matter, they ALL cut grease, and spray it in there. Let it sit for 10-15 mins and then force water through the manifolds throroughly to get all the shavings/gunk out. Then blast it with some more air for a long time to spray out all the water. Allow enough time to dry.
Once everything is ported and cleaned to your liking. Reassemble the whole mess, be sure to use new gaskets. Here again, follow the manual.
AND YOUR DONE!
REACTION:
After doing this, I noticed the car had a nice, somewhat lumpy idle. It was slightly deeper in tone and seemed almost "787B-ish" (if you've ever heard it idling
). Idle was raised to around 1k, but operating temperature was still a steady 174*F. Took it for a test drive
. All I can say is WOW! Fist off, the throttle response is incredible above 3,500 RPMs. Below that, it kinda bogs, but there is more than enough useable torque. Then engine makes a NICE sucking noise on WOT, almost sounds like a turbo, ALMOST. As for power, there is really no increase until 5,500RPMs. Here, there is a great feeling of being sucked into your seat and it makes power ALL THE WAY up to redline, you really can't feel it drop off anymore. In the shift from 1st to 2nd, i lost control of the rear end and fishtailed slightly but it was alright. So basically, high end power is improved, to the point where you can actually feel it. At least 15-20 CRANK hp, which translates to 12-17 RWHP. The peak power moves VERY near to redline (8k on my car) or even slightly after. STOCK internals should not be revving that high, BUT you have power all the way there, making it a faster car.However, I think that you will only see 5-9 RWHP without a free-flowing exhaust. For the money ($6 for a bit, maybe more if you need gaskets), it's definately worth it. With VERY good driving, it should take off .2-.3 seconds on the 1/4 mile, bringing you into the low-mid 15's for a 89-91 N/A (with BPU mods in addition to this porting of course, and all parts like 6-ports working and well tuned) and high 15's to low 16's in a 86-88.
And of course the 4 DOWNSIDES I found.
-SMALL loss of low end torque, maybe 3-5 ft-lbs.
-Raised idle to around 1k
-Louder
-Exhaust fumes will kill small animals
Anyone else who has done this please post your reactions too!
Everyone else, feel free to ask questions, flame, provide input or whatever. (WOW this took a while to type).
PS- ALL manifold images are linked from MAZDASPEED7's webpage, mine looked exactly or near exactly the same
. You can visit his homepage here
Last edited by dre_2ooo; 05-13-02 at 11:06 PM.
05-13-02, 11:44 PM
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Originally posted by mazdaspeed7
Can I put your post onto my site? You wrote a whole lot more than me, and it would be nice to keep them together on a site.
Can I put your post onto my site? You wrote a whole lot more than me, and it would be nice to keep them together on a site.
.
05-13-02, 11:44 PM
#7
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Yeah, it was a PITA to get the porting even, the drill kept wanting to make its own little ruts.
BUT, these "drill saws" are AMAZING. they are perfect for this job, instead of using a pusys *** dremel we used many power drills and witht eh saws, we were EATING away at teh aluminum. what was surprising was the BIT nor the intake EVER GOT HOT! the egarbox inside my drill kept getting warm, but the bits/intake never EVER felt warn to the touch (and this relaly surprised me)
they were titanium nitrided and are very strong, and i dont think we even wore them down at all. I highly siggest you use these 2-3 dollar bits and a nice drill to port, its faster and is perfect fr the job.
oh, and DO NOT FUC|< with the TB!!! andre did and it took him hours to get it back to how it was
BUT, these "drill saws" are AMAZING. they are perfect for this job, instead of using a pusys *** dremel we used many power drills and witht eh saws, we were EATING away at teh aluminum. what was surprising was the BIT nor the intake EVER GOT HOT! the egarbox inside my drill kept getting warm, but the bits/intake never EVER felt warn to the touch (and this relaly surprised me)
they were titanium nitrided and are very strong, and i dont think we even wore them down at all. I highly siggest you use these 2-3 dollar bits and a nice drill to port, its faster and is perfect fr the job.
oh, and DO NOT FUC|< with the TB!!! andre did and it took him hours to get it back to how it was
Trending Topics
05-14-02, 12:24 AM
#9
mad scientist
I put his write up on my page, along with mine. Heres the link
05-14-02, 09:15 AM
#10
I noticed more power everywhere, when i port matched the lower intake manifold to the block. (My ports are slightly larger as of my street port). Also, make shure you smooth out the bumps around the secondary injectors. Do this because, fuel travels bolth ways through there. I felt more hp gain with this mod, than doing the dual exaust to be honest.
If any of the new guys would like to see my manifold (its a couple pages long i think.) search with pp13bnos and intake manifold. But i must say dre 2000, did a much nicer wright up than i ever did. CJ
If any of the new guys would like to see my manifold (its a couple pages long i think.) search with pp13bnos and intake manifold. But i must say dre 2000, did a much nicer wright up than i ever did.
CJ
05-14-02, 02:03 PM
#13
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Originally posted by mazdaspeed7
Im going to go out on a limb, and say this is one of the most cost-effective mods for a n/a. Anybody else think the same?
Im going to go out on a limb, and say this is one of the most cost-effective mods for a n/a. Anybody else think the same?
Andre, that was a fantastic write-up. I'm glad Adam put it on his website, and I hope this goes into the archive. I know I'll be refering back to it in the future.
05-15-02, 02:47 PM
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Thanks everyone!
You mean there are only 3 of us who have done this? I feel..... special..
Please anyone who has done this post your reactions. IT'd be great to have an archived how to and reaction thread for one of the most benificial gains for an N/A... being as there are sooo many "how do i make my NA faster?" threads out there
You mean there are only 3 of us who have done this? I feel..... special..
Please anyone who has done this post your reactions. IT'd be great to have an archived how to and reaction thread for one of the most benificial gains for an N/A... being as there are sooo many "how do i make my NA faster?" threads out there
06-06-02, 11:58 AM
#16
Do I Really Exist?
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I have ported the intakes on my 88 and took pictures but they are extremely large pics.
I cant really give any reaction as to how it felt before and after porting, because well, I have never driven a 7 until last night and that was with my ported intakes on there, so...
Ill see if I can get those pics up.
I cant really give any reaction as to how it felt before and after porting, because well, I have never driven a 7 until last night and that was with my ported intakes on there, so...
Ill see if I can get those pics up.
06-06-02, 07:27 PM
#17
I came, I saw, I boosted.
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I did this last year... I couldn't say if it made a difference or not though- since I did it while my engine was being ported.
Judging from the amount of material removed though- I can estimate much more flow...
Another thing I would HIGHLY recommend is smoothing out your 6 ports...
I had NO sleeves, but I took the stock ones, and cut them in half lengthwise- well almost in half- I followed the open part of the sleeve all the way down it... (and discarded the half) I also cut 1" off the end, to remove the rod in the middle.
Then I filled a nice contour into the end of the sleeve with high temp 2part aluminum exoxy (the putty type)
I resistalled them using some of the epoxy on the outside to prevent them from rotating.
I also knife edged the end of the sleeves....
I was actually very suprised that I could notice a very nice difference about 4500 rpms!!!
Much smoother, and absolutely more power.. maybe 5-10 HP.
Highly recomended. I shoudl have done it a LONG time ago!!
Judging from the amount of material removed though- I can estimate much more flow...
Another thing I would HIGHLY recommend is smoothing out your 6 ports...
I had NO sleeves, but I took the stock ones, and cut them in half lengthwise- well almost in half- I followed the open part of the sleeve all the way down it... (and discarded the half) I also cut 1" off the end, to remove the rod in the middle.
Then I filled a nice contour into the end of the sleeve with high temp 2part aluminum exoxy (the putty type)
I resistalled them using some of the epoxy on the outside to prevent them from rotating.
I also knife edged the end of the sleeves....
I was actually very suprised that I could notice a very nice difference about 4500 rpms!!!
Much smoother, and absolutely more power.. maybe 5-10 HP.
Highly recomended. I shoudl have done it a LONG time ago!!
06-06-02, 07:31 PM
#18
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I ported mine a few months ago, and had similar results. I can't say for sure the hp numbers, or torque numbers, but it has certainly made a noticeable difference. Definitely a good cheap mod. I didn't touch the injector bumps (yet anyway) and did a little work on the plastic elbow attaching to the throttle body instead. It pulls the whole way to 8k quite well with an almost unnoticable flat point around 7k(I'd say less than 1/4 sec. passing 7k). I may take it apart again to really smooth out all the runners as much as possible. Now I'm thinking about a better intake/filter instead of the drop in K&N I'm using.
06-07-02, 11:35 AM
#19
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Now that my confidence is built up from engine pull/reinstall work, I think I can now tackle this (or any other project for that matter). AWESOME write up!! Well, time to go get a drill saw!!!!!
EDIT: Where did you get the intake gaskets? Napa dosen't carry them here. Did you go to the Mazda dealership?
EDIT: Where did you get the intake gaskets? Napa dosen't carry them here. Did you go to the Mazda dealership?
