Fusible link, rating/amperage, part number, or source
02-16-04, 06:22 PM
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Fusible link, rating/amperage, part number, or source
Got a new battery today. The terminals got mixed up and the wires were reversed. It popped the middle fusible link on the drivers side strut tower. It is color coded black. I need to know either its rating (probably in amps), a part number for a replacement, or a source for a replacement near Akron or Columbus.
The only info I have found is in the wiring diagrams of the Haynes manual which shows it as a 1.25F or 1.25sq fusible link, I have no idea what those abbreviations mean. Neither AutoZone, NAPA, Federated, or Mazda has that part listed.
Right now there is a 14ga wire in its place. 14ga matched the size of the fusible link perfectly and I needed to get back on the road. I want to fix this right ASAP.
Thanks for your help.
The only info I have found is in the wiring diagrams of the Haynes manual which shows it as a 1.25F or 1.25sq fusible link, I have no idea what those abbreviations mean. Neither AutoZone, NAPA, Federated, or Mazda has that part listed.
Right now there is a 14ga wire in its place. 14ga matched the size of the fusible link perfectly and I needed to get back on the road. I want to fix this right ASAP.
Thanks for your help.
02-17-04, 10:04 AM
#4
www.mazdatrix.com 
.
~T.J.
EDIT: Where/how did you come up with 30 amps? That seems too low... The 79-80 cars' main fuseable link is like 80 amps, and theres not much difference in the years years. The other two are like 30 or 40 each though, are you sure you looked at the right one?
.~T.J.
EDIT: Where/how did you come up with 30 amps? That seems too low... The 79-80 cars' main fuseable link is like 80 amps, and theres not much difference in the years years. The other two are like 30 or 40 each though, are you sure you looked at the right one?
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; 02-17-04 at 10:09 AM.
02-17-04, 10:24 AM
#5
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Hey, just a quick note of caution on this;
You want to replace that 14ga wire with the correct fusible link as quickly as possible. 14ga wire will carry enough current to cause an engine or car fire before it burns up. The fusible link is designed to 'blow' well prior to that kind of amperage, and just because the wire is the same diameter has nothing to do with it's ability to function as a fuse.
The trick in the meantime is to take your broken fusible link and twist the ends together so that you still have some 'fusing' available. Once you get the replacement fusible link, it's good to keep a couple of spares on-hand.
Trying to help you avoid a short or worse which could total your car,
You want to replace that 14ga wire with the correct fusible link as quickly as possible. 14ga wire will carry enough current to cause an engine or car fire before it burns up. The fusible link is designed to 'blow' well prior to that kind of amperage, and just because the wire is the same diameter has nothing to do with it's ability to function as a fuse.
The trick in the meantime is to take your broken fusible link and twist the ends together so that you still have some 'fusing' available. Once you get the replacement fusible link, it's good to keep a couple of spares on-hand.
Trying to help you avoid a short or worse which could total your car,
02-17-04, 06:30 PM
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I'm well aware of the saftey risks of not running the correct link.
I found the 30amps reference in a search for "1.25sq fusible link" which led to a newsgroup posting on an FB and the exact link I blew.
Thanks for the mazdatrix link, but I need a dealer that will ship to an address that doesn't match my billing address. My bills get sent to my parents place and I need the part shipped to my apartment here.
I found the 30amps reference in a search for "1.25sq fusible link" which led to a newsgroup posting on an FB and the exact link I blew.
Thanks for the mazdatrix link, but I need a dealer that will ship to an address that doesn't match my billing address. My bills get sent to my parents place and I need the part shipped to my apartment here.
Last edited by nevarmore; 02-17-04 at 06:42 PM.
02-17-04, 07:04 PM
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GAAAH DAMN IT!!!! I've found a mfgr and several places that have fusible links for sale for the 85 RX-7, but they are all rated in amps. The only ratings/codings I have are black or 1.25sq (sq is a unit specific to fusbile links).
Beck Arnley makes them, but they seem to be updated blockish links not the wire type link I have now and they are rated in amps and time. ie 30A for 4 seconds.
Can someone help? I need a dealer that is advanced enough to ship to an address thats different from the billing address otherwise I'd order from Mazdatrix.
Beck Arnley makes them, but they seem to be updated blockish links not the wire type link I have now and they are rated in amps and time. ie 30A for 4 seconds.
Can someone help? I need a dealer that is advanced enough to ship to an address thats different from the billing address otherwise I'd order from Mazdatrix.
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02-19-04, 05:56 AM
#10
RX-7 Alumni
Get a 2nd Gen Fuse Block!
Just forget about the whole fusable link thing altogether. Go to the junk yard and find any 2nd gen, take out the fuse block and mounting bracket in the engine bay and install it in your FB. Then you can go to any auto store and get replacement fuses--and you'll have a few spare slots for stuff like electric fans.
It is really an easy mod. Hardest part is drilling one hole in your strut tower to mount the fuse block. The other hole I used was one of the existing holes that had a nut already welded into it.
Here's what mine looked like before the T2 swap.
Do a search there's much info out there on this mod.
If you can't figure out the ratings let me know and I'll help you out--but I'm sure the info is out there.
Scott
p.s. I very seriously doubt the 1.25 sq is 30 amps, I would think at least 60 amps. There is some wiggle room in the amp ratings. The fuses are there to protect the wires and nothing else. So you could tie the fuse rating to the wire gauge. If I remember it looked like Mazda had two of the ratings switched. I'll look for the info and get back.
It is really an easy mod. Hardest part is drilling one hole in your strut tower to mount the fuse block. The other hole I used was one of the existing holes that had a nut already welded into it.
Here's what mine looked like before the T2 swap.
Do a search there's much info out there on this mod.
If you can't figure out the ratings let me know and I'll help you out--but I'm sure the info is out there.
Scott
p.s. I very seriously doubt the 1.25 sq is 30 amps, I would think at least 60 amps. There is some wiggle room in the amp ratings. The fuses are there to protect the wires and nothing else. So you could tie the fuse rating to the wire gauge. If I remember it looked like Mazda had two of the ratings switched. I'll look for the info and get back.
Last edited by Rex4Life; 02-19-04 at 06:01 AM.
02-19-04, 06:07 AM
#11
RX-7 Alumni
Here's another thread on the subject:
LINK
And what I was talking about on the swapped ratings.
During the T2 swap this issue was solved. Nobody every came back to explain the question.
Scott
LINK
And what I was talking about on the swapped ratings.
Originally posted by Rex4Life
Good question here--why is the white wire on the ignition circuit bigger diameter than the white/blue wire on the ECU circuit? Reason I ask is cause the white wire is on the 0.3 sq link and the white/blue wire is on the 0.5 sq link--something seems kind of backwards to me--the bigger wire should be on the higher amp rated circuit.
Good question here--why is the white wire on the ignition circuit bigger diameter than the white/blue wire on the ECU circuit? Reason I ask is cause the white wire is on the 0.3 sq link and the white/blue wire is on the 0.5 sq link--something seems kind of backwards to me--the bigger wire should be on the higher amp rated circuit.
Scott
02-20-04, 02:00 AM
#13
Ryan
Re: Get a 2nd Gen Fuse Block!
what alternator are you using? 2nd gen. 80amp?
cuz the FB is 60 amp rite?
-Ryan
cuz the FB is 60 amp rite?
-Ryan
Originally posted by Rex4Life
Just forget about the whole fusable link thing altogether. Go to the junk yard and find any 2nd gen, take out the fuse block and mounting bracket in the engine bay and install it in your FB. Then you can go to any auto store and get replacement fuses--and you'll have a few spare slots for stuff like electric fans.
It is really an easy mod. Hardest part is drilling one hole in your strut tower to mount the fuse block. The other hole I used was one of the existing holes that had a nut already welded into it.
Here's what mine looked like before the T2 swap.
Do a search there's much info out there on this mod.
If you can't figure out the ratings let me know and I'll help you out--but I'm sure the info is out there.
Scott
p.s. I very seriously doubt the 1.25 sq is 30 amps, I would think at least 60 amps. There is some wiggle room in the amp ratings. The fuses are there to protect the wires and nothing else. So you could tie the fuse rating to the wire gauge. If I remember it looked like Mazda had two of the ratings switched. I'll look for the info and get back.
Just forget about the whole fusable link thing altogether. Go to the junk yard and find any 2nd gen, take out the fuse block and mounting bracket in the engine bay and install it in your FB. Then you can go to any auto store and get replacement fuses--and you'll have a few spare slots for stuff like electric fans.
It is really an easy mod. Hardest part is drilling one hole in your strut tower to mount the fuse block. The other hole I used was one of the existing holes that had a nut already welded into it.
Here's what mine looked like before the T2 swap.
Do a search there's much info out there on this mod.
If you can't figure out the ratings let me know and I'll help you out--but I'm sure the info is out there.
Scott
p.s. I very seriously doubt the 1.25 sq is 30 amps, I would think at least 60 amps. There is some wiggle room in the amp ratings. The fuses are there to protect the wires and nothing else. So you could tie the fuse rating to the wire gauge. If I remember it looked like Mazda had two of the ratings switched. I'll look for the info and get back.
