put put put.. spudder.. spudder *shrug*
 

I have no idea what my problem is, however i cannot get my engine to fire

Cas is set to stock mark verifyed via timing light
Tried0-5* starting ing timming
tried 1.xx - 20+ms inj timming for starting

With it really high, it will backfire and sound like its wants to start, however wont, and then floods out

Im getting both trigger signals with a bat booster connected, spark, inj's firing etc



What should i use for a starting setup? Ive tried a few setups and none have worked for me

-Jacob

well the coolant temp map will also affect startup. are you getting any noise when you start the car? itll show you on the second screen i think on the hand controller. look at the controller? whats the injector ms when starting? mine ussually starts around 20-25 then drops out to like 10-15 the way i have it. fires up fast. make sure youre getting good signal from the cas tho, check noise/sync errors first

this is my startup settings. my car fires right up on about the 2nd or 3rd crank.

ignore the blue stuff, i posted it earlier to tell someone about the flood clear

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=88792

this is my startup settings. my car fires right up on about the 2nd or 3rd crank.

ignore the blue stuff, i posted it earlier to tell someone about the flood clear

well the coolant temp map will also affect startup. are you getting any noise when you start the car? itll show you on the second screen i think on the hand controller. look at the controller? whats the injector ms when starting? mine ussually starts around 20-25 then drops out to like 10-15 the way i have it. fires up fast. make sure youre getting good signal from the cas tho, check noise/sync errors first

I disabled the coolent temp map as of right now, i was trying to start w/o any compensation maps.. also there isnt a radiator or any coolent in the engine.. so i figured it wouldnt make a diff anyways

Im not sure about noise.. ill look at that tommorow morning.

Jesus 25ms? im starting at 8.0 like the wolf manual recommended.. your running 550 primary's also right? (i am) Ill give that a try also

I am getting a signal from the CAS, both lights light up, however im still unsure of all my timming settings

CAS is set to stock location
trigger thing in engine settings>trigger is set to 60.1*
ref+sync 0 0 5

I tried the 0 4 5 and it said my engine was turning over at 21,000rpm or something simmilar to that, it was very VERY much incorrect

I don't know where netseven pulled those numbers from as he doesnt even know what they are.

according to the wolf manual the ones i gave you should be the right ones.

what rpm does it show when youre cranking? any signal noise?

as for fuel, i have like 8-12 ms starting (depending on the motor) and 5-10 for initial addon.

with the coolant compensation map it bumps that up there pretty high.

i think i also have my start timing at like 20 degrees? i dont remember. didnt seem to make too much of a difference tho.

[QUOTE=nyt]I don't know where netseven pulled those numbers from as he doesnt even know what they are.
QUOTE]

Yea ok buddy, who has first hand expierence with using the stock CAS and having it work fine? I think its me and not you. I got that configuration from Chris's map. Having the map set the way you said to... well lets just say I got a billion errors and a lot of back fire, and no errors the way that Chris's map is set.

*laugh* let me know when your car starts... if you didnt blow your motor already

p.s. if you properly set your cas, the offset should be 0, not 4.

setting the offset to 4 means it skips 4 reference teeth before it counts the ref tooth as the dual post (Ghost) tooth.


but im sure you know that already

Wow we got a smart guy here thats knows everything and that sets his idle at 45 degrees advanced. Got pissed off because I told some ppl that actually know about tunning, and nyt gets mad. BTW, my car runs, it was flooded from your hella good map setup for cold temps.

So it should be set to 0 huh? yup you sure are smarter than Chris now. Chris's map was setup with 4, and thats the only way it works. His map didnt run good on my car, ONLY because his map is setup for 550cc secondaries, and I got 1600cc. His map is setup to use the staging early so I was getting way too much fuel.

Why dont you get first hand expierence with something before you start shitting out of your mouth for once? Smart ass

Go Wolf Go!

Hey, come on people, there are so few of us Wolf users the last thing we want to do is bitch at each other. This forum has grown a lot since it was basically ChrisNg, myself and Evil Aviator.

Its good to see that Wolf is getting their act together and finally established some kind of support system for their users, and that you have a guy like Chris to turn to. It wasn't always that way

I don't know him personally, but in defense of NYT, he's been very helpful to people on this forum. He's always answered questions and has actually posted real maps. See if anyone does that in the Haltech section. I think having a well running, self tuned high-HP V4 car should count as some experience, no?

Also, I don't see where you get that his car idles at 45 BTDC. His idle rpm/load cells show 20BTDC (11-10-04 map). My Wolf car likes to idle there too :)

Anyway, carry on ;)

So I guess bugging me over instant messenger for 3 weeks about wolf makes you an expert now? I guess you bitching 3 days on AIM because you couldn't get your car started was all the first hand experience you need right?

I bet you're so much of an expert that you drive your car around boosting on a map that isnt yours or remotely tuned without even setting the timing.

Do you even know what the settings your talking about do? Do you even understand what a reference pulse is? How bout a ghost pulse/dual pulse?

Keep talking shit about my maps, i told you in the first place, theyre what work on MY CAR. god knows what mess you've made of yours. I told you countless times theyd be a good point to start off from, but since your motor is a lot different from my STOCK BLOCK youd have to do plenty of tuning. so many times i've said that and you never pay attention.

it's sad to think i wasted so much time trying to help you out, giving you maps to start with, modifying maps to try and help you, etc. Your arrogance astounds me. You can't even set your timing on your own. piss off.

let me know when you actually do something besides loading someone elses map into your car.. hey how bout you post some dyno numbers that you have so much first hand experience with? Better yet, does your car even run yet? just do me one favor, dont come bitching to me when you blow your motor.

anyway, im done w/ this childish bullshit. grow up kid.

and evilrotor, i actually idle it at 45 now. it seems to run a bit smoother/quieter than 20. I found no ill side affects from doing this. throttle response off idle is snappier as well.

I stand corrected :)

45*.. jesus.. ill try that too

Didnt get to try today, however i wrote down every combination of settings i could find in the reccent wolf thread's and will try em allllll tommorow

BTW, im running a 13b-re with the stock s4 cas, i dont have to do anything 'special' in regards to setting my timming do i?
-Jacob

Ok you ass, I didnt say im an expert on anything all I said is I have first hand expierence setting up the stock CAS, UNLIKE YOU. I do know what each thing does because Chris explained it to me very clearly. I also know that the way you said to do it, didnt start my car and gave my car a bunch of errors and backfire. When I set it up the way Chris told me to, then everything was great and the car fired up instantly. Anyways stop bitching because I dont need your help nyt, ever since I called Chris and got much better help I never asked you a damn thing. Chris even offered to do some work on my map if I did some datalogging and sent him the files.

lol this kid got pissed at me because I gave away his secret of running 45 advanced at idle. Every car tuner including ReTed (which is the best tuner on rx7club) that I talked to said 45 advanced at idle is insane. lol he also saw some of your posts and we both agree on something about you... Yes I got my car started by pull starting it because it was so damn flooded out it took 2 miles of pulling to get it started. Dont start bitching at me and not expect me to defend myself. Also, stop putting words in my mouth, where did I say im an expert on wolf3d? Yes I know I dont know shit about it, but I do know how to set the stock CAS.

wasn't a secret, i just asked you not to mention it. pissed me off you couldnt even do that.

so tell me, why is it insane? id really like to hear this answer.

Gentlemen,

Come on!!! this is getting us nowhere!! Look, both of you know a great deal more then me on wolf, so i cant moan and point fingers. But please, both you two people know your stuff very well, one in a dept the other in other. Just try avoid issues. All your write ups are great but now i think its being dragged too far.

Net7, NTY helped me a great deal with my maps and soon i will post him another updated map of mine. His help has been great on so many issues.

Net7 your CAS info has been very very valuable and you know it has. So please, having issues among just the little of us here wont help.

People, just dont answer each other if you cant stand each other....

my two pence worth...

Fired the car today!

Car really likes running 15*, it would almost start on 10, and 12, i jumped to 15 and it came to life, i changed load bands from 20somthing to 50somthing all to 15* all the way to 2krpm and was able to keep it running w/o being in the car. My tac isnt working but the handcontroler was reading between 650 and 1500. i have about 2000 vac leaks (cars not 'assembled' just thrown together to see if it would run)

Im running 17ms on the 550primaries. Didndt think to throw in my LM-1 to grab a wb reading but tommorow is another day. Once i get my T-stat housing i can run it for a while and maby let it move under its own power

On another note

Turbo rotary with the exhaust ending 6" after the turbo sounds badass
Turbo rotary with the exhaust ending 6" after the turbo has some kick ass backfires

Hoooray, thanks for all the help in the first half of this thread.. before it went to hell

so what were the cas settings that worked for the car?

I knew someone would ask this question. I am not 100% sure if the offset was 4 or 0. I dont rember last i tryed and i didnt have my laptop yeasterday. I am brining it with me today (car's at work 1hr away) When i get home tonight i will postup all the settings i used

A few questoins. would my cas not being set correctly (physicly set in the front cover) affect the offset i have to use in the wolf setup? Does it not matter which offset i use? Aslong as its under the number of sync teeth it will just 'fire' on a diff tooth of the cas?

Again, thankyou for everyones input, I was very, Very happy my car started lastnight.

you can set the CAS offset to whatever you want as long as you line it up with how you set it.

when you line up the dot and install it with the motor at TDC, the CAS is at either the sync or the dual pulse. there are no teeth skipped because tdc is right there, not 4 teeth away. if you install it before top dead center, then you start to use the offset.

I fucked up, ill post my map and the settings tommorow, my bad

Yea, but for some reason I get a lot of backfire and the signal errors just keep counting when I have it set at 0. Runs perfect set at 4

Sorry took so long to get back to this thread, im having a bunch of unrelated issues, making this take longer than i expected

Right now im using NYT's map with the offset set to 0, I havent had enought time to try to stablilze the idle, make sure 100% the CAS is zero'd, and try the exact same timming/fuel settings with the offset set to 4 so i cant say which way works better/is correct


Going way wolfems offtopic, is it common for an engine that hasnt been run in a while to smoke like a bastard when its let to warm up its first time. It was a thick white smoke, that didnt smell like anything

-Jacob

if it doesnt smell like anything its water... condensation from exhaust most likely.

if it smells sweet, its coolant in there

if its greyish/blue and smells like oil, well its oil

black is gas

Little more follow up, I was running with the zero offest

So i tried setting offset to 4


Car idled the same, and had the same 14.9afr (what afr should i shoot for at idle. Im using your fuel and igntion maps to tune from , well before i start im going to richen them up a bunch, and work down )

14.9 at idle? heh my car idles around 12-12.5:1 as do most cars... if you set the offset to 4, use a timing light, make sure your L1/T1 are where they should be. just because it idles doesnt mean its proper.

And that right there shows how diff motors really are. Ive got a stock port cosmo re, using your map got over 15:1afr's before i droped em down a bit

I will do the timming light thing tommorow, i dont have a light with a advance/retart function, and i cant get my motor to run at 0*, so i have to buy a good light. Tommorow will tell

-Jacob

wow my car wont even idle at 15:1, are you sure that is accuratE? what o2 sensor are you using?

heh you actually have to get the motor to run at -5, not 0 =]

You don't need an advance timing light, or have the car running to zero the timing.

The way I set my timing, was to set the crank igntion timing to whatever number I wanted to check with the light. I'm my case I had a 10*BTDC timing mark. So I would set the cranking timing to that value, disable the fuel injectors and just crank and adjust until it was at the mark.

Does that make sense? Been drinking a lot of single malt scotch tonight... :confused:

Innovate's LM-1 and LMA-3 Kit.

Ill re-calibrate the o2 sensor before i run it next, i calibrated it not to long after i filled my shop with exhaust so it could be wrong




Im pretty sure i understand. In the case of my V4, id set starting ing timming to whatever i wanted, i could set it to whatever the stock mark for L1 is, crank it over with no fuel and check with the light i have now. Sounds good to me


-Jacob

Wierd so your car actually runs set at 0. Mine wont even start like that, just backfire and signal errors start counting. I set my idle to 12.8/1 AFR, nice idle, very smooth. Try backing it down to 12 advanced instead of 45 and see if it cleans up, mine sure did.

Ahh yea I wanted to ask you if you got your trailing going with that bosch ignitor. I just picked up the plug from porsche yesterday, so I'll be hooking it up soon.

i dont think his car is actually idling at that high AFR. Any car i lean out past 13.x starts sputtering and dies out. and i dont think i've posted a map with 45 degree advance for anyone to actually use so I doubt hes running 45.

as evilrotor said, if you can mark your crank pulley with different timing marks (i know the racing beat pulley has a variety of them on there, youre not limited to having to lock your timing at -5 which can often prove to be a pain in the ass).

Hm, ill try that tommorow. And no, i have not tried the ignitor yet, i havent even ordered it yet =[

out of curiosity how much do those bosch igniters go for? FD igniters are ussually easy to find and work AMAZING. we have a car running deep into the 9s on wolf using just an FD igniter and an msd 6a

in excess of $100, the closest one i could find was 150ish, and wasnt even the correct one

Do you have wiring diagram's for the FD ignitor? if so, how much does an FD ignitor go for?

-Jacob

you can find fd igniters easy.. put a WTB up in the sale sections. they dont go for much. and yeah, i have a wiring diagram somewhere.. if not i can just tell you how i have mine wired up

it controlls the leading and the trailing coils fine. i use the msd 6a as amplification on the leading. romeo has his car setup the same way, he runs mid 9s at well over 30psi of boost. its definitely more than enough ignition =]

Yea you can probably find a used for one cheap, but if you want brand new... be ready to pay around $400. I payed $150 for my bosch igniter, and it was $10 for a plug from porsche. They use them in the porsche 911 and its made by bosch, that alone just says enough about the quality. Motec actually also recommends these igniters in their setup.

Alrighty, i just got an ignitor for $30 shipped, so if ya get some time if you could shoot me the wiring for the ignitor it would be greatly appreciated

-Jacob

ill post the info tomorrow..

when i wired mine up either the haltech wiring diagram was wrong or the FSM was wrong and i dont remember which. ill check on my car and post it up tomorrow... ill have to dig my car out tomorrow after work, theres at least a foot of snow burying it =[

sorry just got home from a long day at work, ill get to it tomorrow

Not a prob, i got enought small thigns to wrap up that this can wait

ok, hope you appreciate this.. had to dig through feet of snow to get to m car / get my hood open.. my feet are gonna be wet all day at work now =[

anyway, this is looking at it with the pins on the igniter facing up, looking at the top side of it. Pins from left to right. This matches up with the diagram on page G-16 of the FSM. Make sure you have the connector from the FD harness with the igniter also.

PIN 1 - Trailing Wolf (T1)
PIN 2 - To Trailing Coil (T1)
PIN 3 - Trailing Wolf (T2)
PIN 4 - 12V IN (switched)
PIN 5 - To Trailing Coil (T2)
PIN 6 - Leading Wolf
PIN 7 - To Leading Coil
PIN 8 - Unused (bridged to pin 7 inside the igniter)


from the FSM.
http://www.countercultured.net/pics/fdigniter.jpg

Lol.. thanks hope you dry off or dont work outside

Ill give this a try asap, thanks again

-Jacob

Crackhedmel

There are 2 reasons you may be reading 14.5 at idle and have a good idle.

1: You have your emissions hooked up and its adding air into the system and thus gives you the perfect reading (this happens onf FD's too).

2: Your wideband is miss calibrated


Usually the perfect idle is at 12.5 or so WITHOUT any air pumps or anything to affect the reading. If you air pump was connected, you would probably see 14.5 at the sensor even though the motor is actually at about 12.5.

I hope your car is running decent now....

Lol... its not my air pump. i have no emmission's equipment



Alright, i finished up my exhaust today (onlky thing i had left) and went back to trying to get the car running.

Now its very hesitant to start. I adjusted fuel and ignition in both directions trying to get it running. It would fire but rarly enough to start. I did manage to get it running good once. I changed my offset from 0 to 4 and it started up and sounded great. almost held an idle. then 10sec later, just died. Couldnt get anything for a while, just before i called it quits and left my starter to cool i was getting it to miss again however no start with the offset set either way

Also with the offset set to 4 i stoped getting the error count on my laptop.