well i just redid all the shit i said you should do in my post in your map... then wolf software crashed when i went to save. . lovely.

ill try again now

here, try this.. I made all the changes i suggested in your map without modifying anything else. your ignition map is a little cleaner now, your car should idle smoother and the advance curve is a little smoother as well.. i bumped up your ignition split from 8 to 10 past your torque peak. the fuel map needs more work, as it was definitely not dyno tuned since it looks like it'd be running very rich at high rpm (i dont see any drop off in the fuel map). I added some fuel to the midrange where it would need it mimicing the other values where they were raised (assuming this had some dyno tuning here). I adjusted the engine temperature compensation values, your car should run smoother when cold now. you may need to adjust your start fuel pulse values but im not sure. i changed your transient settings so you should have better response when you step on the gas now.

This car still needs to be tuned to run properly, and you need to make sure your timing is set right to begin with otherwise you will have loads of problems. this isnt a cure-all, this is just neatening up some stuff you had there... you use this at your own risk.... if you use it, let me know how it works out

i think you got mixed up somewhere.

A rising rate fuel pressure regulater is often used for n/a cars that have been turboed or supercharged and still use factory ecu. So rather then messing with a stand alone a cheap and easy way to do it would be with an FMU (or rising rate fuel pressure regulator). How it works is simple. There's usually different one's you can get. 6:1, 8:1, 12:1. What this means is for every lb of boost you run fuel pressure will rise either 6/8/12 lbs ABOVE your base setting. So if your running 40PSI fuel pressure and 10lbs of boost with a 6:1 regulator you will end up with
100PSI fuel pressure. You can quickly see that this is not the way to do because many fuel pumps can't run that high let alone flow enough flow with that much pressure. But this is what you usually see in turbo kits for n/a cars because it's very cheap.

now a normal fuel pressure regulater is 1:1 unless you don't run the vacuum line then it stays where you set it.

SO if you have a base pressure of 30PSI and run 20lbs Boost you will be running
50PSI fuel pressure.

High HP turbo cars(or any turbo car) needs to have fuel pressure regulators with 1:1

If you didn't your boost in the intake would push the fuel thru the injector backwards and back into fuel rail.

that post was basically what i was trying to say in the earlier post but people around my computer kept interrupting me and messed me up.. i read it again now and laughed a bit

Thanks I'll see how the map looks

if you're "base pressure is 30 psi, then under vaccum it will suck it down around 12 psi.

I like it also, because you can get the higher flow and fuel atomization of higher pressures but your fuel injectors aren't subject to the beating of high fuel pressures during normal driving.

of course I'm talking about the norml 1:1 setup

if your base pressure is 30, it will never get sucked below 16.5... and most cars ive only ever seen get sucked down to 26inHg, which is about 13 psi...

do you think it'd be possible to get a copy of your map??

aki11ez@gmail.com

Its V3.1 Map though. If you still want it let me know, I'll send...

i was mainly interested in your ignition map, so i guess a screen shot would do or something. I don't have the software for the 3.1 :(

Here it is. This Map is for 94 Octane

37% = 0 psi
50% = 4.2
62% = 8.4
75% = 12.6
87% = 16.8
100% = 21

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...id=82208&stc=1

very conservative =] safe map

Better Zoom Zoom Zoom, than Zoom Zoom Boom :).

THANKS!