You're a nut for trying to run A/C, what a pain in the ass :lol: Packaging is a tough job. So you're obviously going to make a shit-ton of torque. What is the plan for putting it to the ground :cool:

285's?????:blush:

I'll be running 10" wheels, either 285/295 and a 3.27 rear gear that will make first gear good to 61mph so it should be better than most at getting it down.

I'm in love with this swap! And im not the biggest fan of the ls engine only cuz everyone is doing it. But not everyone is doing it like this!

Haha thanks. Just got told today the turbo compressor wheel is out of stock. Won't know an ETA til Tuesday. UGH.:icon_tdow

Subscribing for such an awesome project. Looks like I'm going to need to max out my T-Trim when I'm in your area, so I can keep up!

Great car is there any video

IC. I was thinking about this the other day... IIRC they gear the C6 Z06 & ZR1 @ 3.42 final drive (not sure what the trans ratios are compared to a fbody camaro t56 which most seen to use).... that's probably part of the reason chevy chose a lower ratio. That and they can brag about how ridiculous their 0-60 times are since you can run the whole thing in 1st gear lol. They do put the power down real well. I've been in a ZR1 a 1/2 dozen times now with a crazy driver and his car is planted in 1st... and fast as shit! The Z06 feels very similar.

Yea I think the linearity of the powerband shouldn't shock the tires as bad as an FD with a 4.3 and a huge single that comes on like a light switch.

Ls motors just look soooooo good in these cars.
I bet the wiring is going to be a true pita.

Why the thumbs down?

Wiring should be interesting.

Got the turbo. Precision 7675GTS with the billet compressor and ported shroud. Rated at a conservative 1200hp.

Attachment 723718

Attachment 723719

Attachment 723720

Attachment 723721

So no one cares about gnarly turbos. Got it. Also, I think it's kinda of stupid that my build thread gets thrown in a seperate sub forum because of the engine choice. It's still a build thread.

I think this build thread, and turbo, is pretty boss.

Didn't you post your thread in this section? I'm assuming you are saying this because you asked a moderator to move your thread and they said no?

As far as I can tell, they don't have a problem with other engine choices in the "build thread" subforum: https://www.rx7club.com/v-8-powered-rx-7s-299/mississippi-fd-383ci-forged-ls1-stroker-build-971046/

Yea I posted it originally in the build section and it got moved. I haven't asked anyone to move it back.

If a mod is reading this, can you move it back?

The turbo fitment in the bay is going to be TIGHT.

Dude, I love gnarly turbos, I like turbos in general :cool: Those suckers look pretty massive, have fun trying to stuff them in your engine bay. I still think you're crazy for trying to run A/C. Questions:

-Are there any other dual turbo ls-fds that have A/C?
-Are you still going to run your heater lines from the water pump to firewall?
-Wiring shouldn't really be any harder for this setup than a N/A car. The turbos don't have any electronics on them unless you count a boost controller or temperature/pressure sensors, etc.
-What are you using for boost control?
-IMO tuning it (air, fuel, timing) and getting your boost response where you want it will be the tough part.
-Who is going to tune this thing?

Is it done yet :tonque:

bummer. I'd shoot them a PM to see if you can get it moved back then.

turbo looks nice :icon_tup:

Haha a little clarification. I'm only running the on 7675. Trying to run 2 would be almost impossible and require hacking everything up. Plus, I don't need 2500hp. :lol:

There isn't a single LSX swapped fd turbo with AC that I'm aware of. I'm looking to be the first. I know Beastt is planning on putting it on his car but I think I'm going to be the first. That's the plan at least.

Yes on the heater lines. ALL fittings on the car will be AN unless they absolutely can't be. Ie the boost reference line off the Haltech has to be a barbed fitting I think. I don't think you can swap the integral fitting on the ECU but I'm going to look into it. But all the vacuum lines, radiator hoses, heater hoses etc. will be AN.

The wiring is going to be a bigger deal because I'm going to run the haltech standalone which requires building a custom harness off of their flying lead harness which isn't terrible, but I'm also going to be trimming the body, dash and front harnesses as well as relocating the engine bay fuse boxes and such to the passenger bin. I'm also going to be using a Racepak IQ3 dash so I'll have that to wire up to which should actually reduce the dash wiring since it's like 3 connectors that run right to the haltech. So that will be nice.

The haltech has an integral boost controller to 22 psi if I remember right. I should be over 900whp at around 16-18 so I won't need anymore than that.

And Speedfab will be doing all the tuning. After seeing what he can do with Beastt's car, talking to him a little, and what not, I really trust him to make it safe and powerful. The 14 hour drive to Florida will be totally worth it.

epic..... sub'd

gnarly turbos you say???

hope you dont mind.... :)
GT40 with 4" anti-surge housing

LOL.... not as large, but it wasn't meant for a V8

Attachment 723722
Attachment 723723



ps.... consider this my subscription :nod:

Haha, I was about to be like "cool story bro."

Sorry for the lack of progress. Been slammed at work, one of my best friends had a kid and me and my wife are the godparents so that took all last weekend. Once I can find the time to locate the turbo in the engine bay, it'll be a game of connect the dots (manifolds) to the turbo and IC pipes.

not my cup of tea , the whole ls convertion thing ...i just dont get it (and yes i know i am running the risk of getting flamed for saying this )
but it does look like a cool project
i mean starting with a clean sheet and upgrading it to youre own style
with that massive motor and turbo , you should have quite a rocket there ......only thing that could be more fun then building that thing would probably be driving it
good luck

Appreciate it. Originally I was just going to do a heads/cam ls1. Then I thought, I won't be super happy unless it's turboed. Then I found the ls3 for a steal so it just kinda escalated. haha

As far as the converision in general. I won't flame anyone for disagreeing, but I would for perpetuating all the wrong stereotypes about the conversion. I honestly think that most rotary owners are just ignorant to the actual specifics of it.

I'm not sure what's not to get.

---Exponentially more power right out of the box with HUGE headroom. (heads/cam ls1's routinely make 430whp NA and some have been past 475whp And I'm planning on making around 900whp below 15 pounds of boost or so on a smallish turbo for this size of a motor)

---Substantially better reliability. Don't even try and argue this point. People run junkyard motors with over 100k into the 8's without breaking them season after season.

---Huge amount of aftermarket support

---0 weight gained. Another huge misconception. There is no weight gain when swapping to an aluminum blocked engine. People forget the rotary is cast iron.

---Still maintains the front/rear weight balance. Another misconception. When you relocate the battery to the bins, everything is back to perfect. And it's not hanging over the steering rack either.

---The LS motor is not an old, sluggish motor. Just because it has pushrods doesn't make it not rev happy. LS2 stock rev limit is like 6700 and 7k is pretty standard. I know it's not 8500 or 9k but when you make more torque off idle than 95% of rotary owners make at peak, you don't need another 1500 rpms. It also revs quickly.

---Fits under the stock hood. And now there are no bumpsteer issues at all. Maintains perfect suspension geometry.

So. There you go.

I would like you to back that up. With a regular lsx engine I'm sure there's not much to talk about. But, aren't you going to be running a front mount turbo? You're throwing quite a bit of weight on the front of your car compared to an NA lsx. Lots of tubing, intercooler, turbo. Same stuff that makes the fd longblock heavy.

Anyways, enjoying following your build.

a while back , i think jimlab made a comparison to this , or something , i am sure its in his thread somewere
i believe the LS swap (aluminium) was same weight compared to the 13b , but i think there was also some discussion that a turbo LS engine would be slightly heavier , because of the extra stuff turbo engines bring to the table , manikfolds , turbo etc etc

dont get me wrong i am in no way downing youre conversion , i think its cool and its great because it "keeps RX7`s in the loop" so to say
i love all rx7`s , be it LS ,RB,2jZ and yes even vtec h powered, i love them all
i like the rotary because i like to be different and not follow the masses , it might be inefecient , etc etc according to some but to me it works just fine , i am just saying if i wanted an LS powered FD i would buy a C5 ....same thing almost ....but again ,...thats just me

Again , nothing against youre conversion , and i particularly like the way you are planning it , very meticulous , i like that approach , i will be following the build also just because of youre attention to detail ...its what sets this appart
cool build , keep up the good work

Thanks, I'm not sure what there is to back up. I was talking about the NA LS motor, not mine. But a friend with a very similiar setup as mine will be recently sold his and built another and weighed everything before shipping- it was 85 pounds. So yea, I'm adding 85 pounds over a stock FD. I'll trade 85 pounds for 400whp all day. Compared to alot of people with an additional 30 pounds of body work, heavy ass wheels and stereos, it'll all be a wash anyway.

Haha see above on the weight, and the C5 is not like an FD with a different engine. That hurts me on the inside to hear you say that. haha.

Well, that's good news guys. Since the price of C5 corvettes are going down and the price of RX7s are going up, in a few years we will will be able to swap rotary motors into Corvettes and have the same car for less- since "an ls RX7 is essentially a corvette."

more pictures please!

I'm in the process of trying to locate the turbo into the bay right now. It's seriously tight in there. Might have to change my whole planned radiator and fan setup to gain one inch of clearance because that may be as tight as we're talking here.

Can it go in the oil cooler spot? Or too much header to route?

Yea that'd be kinda crazy. Plus it'd be super low.


So I ordered my collector materials from Cone Engineering last week and they showed up this morning right before I left for work so I took a couple pics. They're 304 stainless, 2" in and 2.5" out, 6" long. They're really nice pieces. I also bought theie cast stainless merge bullets to make the transition into the collectors perfect, and a fixturing ring for lining up all of the primaries. Total it was $187 shipped for all of it, or around $500 cheaper than Burns Stainless. If you didn't buy the merge bullets, you could get out with just the collectors for like $125.

I also was able to spend like 10 minutes looking at the top mounted turbo idea and it looks promising. It's going to be tucked up against the water pump inlet/outlet I think so that the compressor inlet can be turned enough to run the intake pipe behind the radiator. Too shallow of an angle make it aim right into the radiator. But, it looks doable. I started making up a wooden mock up jig to clamp it to the frame rail to check the hood clearance and such.

I'd like to mount it up top for a few reasons. It allows me to keep the intercooler setup I've got = no cutting the bumper. It allows me to keep the radiator and fan setup I had planned. And the oil drain will work really well and I won't have to worry about it backing up. Also, It looks badass sitting up top. :egrin: The only clearance issue I might have is the upper radiator hose having to snake under the intake pipe and then back up, but we'll see. Still need to check the lower AC compresssor mounting situation too.

Attachment 723724

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ollectors2.jpg

Hey if you're looking for ideas, my buddy worked for a company called mallet racing. They did twin turbo ls swaps in the solstice. Different car I know but you might be able to find some ideas on some of their builds.

nice work

So after alot of mocking things up, it seems that the lower mount turbo is the only feasible way to keep ABS, have a cold air intake for the turbo etc. The upper looks way better but things are just too tight. I've also decided to ditch the vertical flow intercooler for a more traditional horizontal one. The upper IC pipe would have just been a huge PITA for no real reason. This means having to cut the lower mouth of my bumper a little which I didn't want to do but it will allow me to tilt the radiator forward which gives me room for the turbo down low. So, that's the plan. Should be locating the turbo very soon and then it's time to build the manifolds. :)

Can't wait to see this finished up

This is a badass build! Good luck with the rest and can't wait to see it finished

I've been lacking in updating the thread although not alot has been done. I sold the vertical flow intercooler, and got a more traditional horizontal flow after I decided it was necessary to cut the lower mouth of the bumper to get everything to fit and the upper IC pipe would have been a super pain in the ass. Had to cut out some of the bumper support. Still need to cut some more off the top.

Also made a jig to hold the turbo flange in place for building the manifolds and crossover pipes. And today I made a mock up of the driver's side header. Also ordered my intercooler piping and couplers from Treadstone.

Also sent back my Taurus fan for 2 Derale electric fans that flow 2200 CFM EACH. I'm just using one for mockup. You'll notice I built a mockup wooden radiator and crank pully since ATI said not to intall the real one until the engine is built because removing them can hurt them sometimes.


Attachment 723725

Attachment 723726

Attachment 723727

Attachment 723728

Attachment 723729

More pics.

Attachment 723730

Attachment 723731

Attachment 723732

Attachment 723733

Attachment 723734

Attachment 723735

More pics.

Attachment 723736

Attachment 723737

Attachment 723738

Attachment 723739

Your serpentine belt is scared.

Hahaha he's got no chance of staying right now.

My belt runs right by a turbo. Never had any trouble.

I thought he was making a joke about the wooden pully. If you're really worried about heat, don't be.

Looks awfully tight next to the mockup pulley? Won't the engine rocking back and forth potentially cause them to hit? 900hp tends to flex motor mounts a good bit.

Very nice work.

The turbo will be attached to and move with the engine, so clearance will stay the same. I'm pretty sure the bracket you see fastened to the body with the turbo flange is just to help mock up the manifold(s).

Aluminum is so last year, wooden pulleys are the shit.

The only thing that could possibly hit with engine movement would be the downpipe hitting the subframe if the whole combo rotates down far enough. It shouldn't though.

Finally finished the passenger side manifold mockup. It was really frustrating for a while. The problem isn't fitting everything in- it's fitting it all in and having to get a downpipe under the collector. After a few days of trying a few different collector locations and getting really close to saying fuck this and ordering the hinson kit, I finally found the perfect location. I had to cut off this 1/2" piece of block casting but that's it. Zach and Nick did a good job of making me feel like a quitter so I stuck it out and as of now, I'm glad I did. Building them could prove to be another pain the ass but we'll see.

Everything fits really well. There's great plug access (notice my sweet plugs), and the location of the collector and keeping the runners as high as I could could potentially allow for a 4" downpipe. In one of the pics below, that's a 4" OD flex section fitting right through with room to spare. It might get tricky coming under the collector and around the subframe but it looks like at a minimum a 3.5" is doable. Pretty happy about that. I just taped some straight 2.5" pipe to the collector and the outlet points right about where it should. A slight bend and it will fire right past the sway bar like it needs to.

Attachment 723740

Attachment 723741

Attachment 723742

Attachment 723743

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...rmanifold1.jpg

Attachment 723744

Attachment 723745

Attachment 723746

Attachment 723747

So sick! Can't wait to see this build finished!

I just have one question can I hire you for cheap to do a conversion on my car???????????????? It doesn't need to be as sick as yours lol

Nobody does these swaps cheap AND well.

Got the cross bar finished minus final welding. Just want to wait until the radiator gets here before final welding it although I don't see why it would matter. The bar is 1" mild with a 0.120" wall and the ends are 3/16" plate that are 3"x3". The bar will bolt in and be sandwiched to the car via another plate from the same material on the other side. It worked out just like I had planned. You can see everything fits nice and tight. You can't really tell but there's a mock up AC condenser mounted to the radiator. So everything that's going to be up there is accounted for.

It will help mount the front bumper, radiator and intercooler. You can see how perfectly it runs under where the new bumper mounting bolts will be. I'll probably end up just using those long zip tie things to mount the condenser to the radiator unless someone can tell me why I shouldn't. I can't really see the point of making a dedicated mounting structure when it's just as easy to mount it to the radiator. Is there a benefit of not doing so?

I also welded up the corners of the frame rails where it was seperated after I cut out all those brackets a while ago. There was a good 1/8" gap all the way down. No point in making it any prettier as you'll never see it, but I think it looks pretty good. Not that it matters.

I also figured out how I'm going to mount the radiator and intercooler. Going to be really nice and easy. I should be ordering the radiator Monday ish. I need to cut up my $280 fans to see where I can put the outlets.

Pics:

Attachment 723748

[img width=800 height=597]http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b132/mefarri/RX7/mockupcrossbar.jpg[/img]

Attachment 723749

Attachment 723750

Attachment 723751

Attachment 723752

Attachment 723753