Something to think about...

Don't avoid a 98-99 LS1 completely, keep pricing relative. I picked mine up for ~1500-2000 less then going rate. I can afford to do a cam, heads, intake and an LS6 block if I feel like it, for equal the going rate of a typical 01+ LS1.

The plan for my car is to get the LS1 in, get the bugs out, and then start collecting parts for a fully built setup.

Haven't ruled it out completely especially since I always find good deals on 98-99's. What are some of the problems that the 98-99's have though? I think I've read something about oil problems.

98s use a different wiring harness, different pcm, often have oil consumption issues, and the cylinder heads are "notched" so you're limited in what head gaskets you can run.

99-02 motors are basically the same with some subtle changes here and there. Starting '01 they have an ls6 intake (good for about 10hp or so), and some '02s have LS6 blocks. The wiring harnesses and computers are interchangeable (some of the computer tables are different for each year though).

Some 99s have oil consumption issues, mainly due to a poor PCV design. If you convert it to an LS6 style system it usually cleans that up. It cured mine anyways.

Here's some 'bump steer' tech.......http://www.derpca.com/Porscheforme/911Tech6-01.htm

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As per granny's speed shop site, referring to lowering the steering rack:

We feel this set-up is less than optimal for a street car, as this type of rod end quickly develops slop as they wear, and do not have a pre-loaded design like the OEM ti-rod end to compensate. Another aspect to ponder is that some might consider the race car style rod end to be un-safe or even illegal to be used in this manner on a street car, as it's design allows a worn rod end to fall apart resulting in loss of control. The extended studs used to lower this type of rod end also induces an increased twisting force on the spindle's steering arm, which results in a car that is somewhat easier to knock out of steering alignment when introduced to curbs and potholes. While this type of set-up is common on race cars, even our own, we do not feel it is appropriate for the street. We doubt that any insurance company would knowingly cover a car used on public highways with such a mis-application of steering components.

Does this have any merit at all? Will I have to worry about my tie rod ends disintegrating while driving?

Well, an LS1 isn't going to clear the hood without dropping the steering rack. It's better to bring the geometry back into spec with a tie rod that will wear prematurely than to suffer through bump steer.

As for it disintegrating, I highly doubt it. I've never had a tie rod fail in that manner, and I've been through plenty with the various cars I've had.

I'd take anything you see from Granny's with a grain of slat. Grant doesn't sell a bump steer correcting tie rod, so of course he'll steer (no pun intended) you away from it. He also encourages the use of an FC manual rack, which is halfass IMHO. I haven't personally had any interactions with Grant or his shop (he never returned my phone calls or emails), but what I see isn't all that positive. He seems to be chronically full of shit.

I kind of had a feeling it was like that.

What happens when the tie rod wears out? How would I know when it is time to replace it?

Thanks for all of your advice btw. I'm going to go with the hinsons' mount kit.

just adding my 2cents in here, I went with a 1998 LS1 because I found it for dirt cheap and it was complete. its been on the road in my FC for a good 6 months now and I've had no problems with the motor, no oil consumption issues and the car has seen an autox every week for a month now. I couldn't be happier, especially for the price of $2500 for a full swap with complete motor, trans, clutch, ecu, harness and all of the accessories.

You can say that again. :bigthumb:

You guys can have your LS1's, I have my feelers out for a 6-liter truck block.

Sure it's iron, but it's the same architecture and the iron can handle more abuse... and it'd be easier to find a wrecked truck than a wrecked Camabird or Corvette. And thus cheaper...

Either 6-liter, or the company I work for is developing something "interesting" in the area of Buick V6's.

Good logic.

Like this?

http://www.taperformance.com/V6%20Block%20Flyer.jpg

Maybe I'll have to change my name to 6into7 now =) I do miss the sound of turbo's already =)

Ouch, $3900 just for the block! :eek:

http://www.taperformance.com/pricelist.htm

Check this out. Prices start at about $6,500. :)

http://www.cnblocks.com/info.htm

jim, just read your thread about "Anyone considering a V8 conversion kit from Granny's? " and it really is sad when a kind and patient customer like you gets screwed over. i'm sure you know that he'll get back what he deserves; only time will tell. but your project seems very promising even it's still not yet on the road :p: no pun intended.

and the whole time i was preparing myself in purchasing a kit from granny's. thanks for the heads up. :bigthumb:

now that granny's is busted, who am i going to turn to to help me accomplish my future project? hinson's perhaps?

Similar, but stronger. And not as expensive. I don't know what I am at liberty to say, maybe have said too much as it is. :) It won't be aluminum, though - as I understand it, those TA blocks are illegal for many classes because of that.

For now, though, we have some killer rotating assemblies and billet main caps and other "goodies" for the turbo six crowd. Hmm, maybe I *should* just go with a "Buick" engine for the FC, repaint the car blue and gold, the whole works. :)