LT1 or LS1
 

Now that I'm on the topic, which engine should I get. The LT1 or LS1? What are the pros/cons? And yes you can bash me for being a newbie, I have searched and figured out some stuff I just want to get a concensus on what you guys who have the experience think is best. Thanks in advance :p:

LS1 is smaller and lighter. LS1 has aluminum block while LT1 does not. However, both engines have huge mod potential, and the LT1 is probably your best bet if you're looking for HP in the 4-digit range. For a fun daily driver/track car, either engine will work fine. The LT1 is significantly cheaper than the LS1 right now, as far as I know.

depends on how much money you got.

:werd:

Go with the ls1 if you can afford it.

Exactly

20b

LS1 is lighter than the 20B slug.

LS1 can be found cheap if you look hard enough. I got my setup for much less then most pay, by watching around for a while (think 1.5 years) for the right deal. The best buys are wrecked cars. Also helps to have friends in the business. :bigthumb:

Thanks everyone. I'll be sticking with my original LS1(6) idea. This is a two year project anyway, so I'll take digitalsolo's advice and wait for a good deal. The more money saved, the more money for mods :bigthumb:

Another point of reference about your LS1(6) comment.

LS6 accessories don't fit very well in the FC engine bay, and the oilpan doesn't fit at all. That and the LS6 typically costs more then the LS1. Best bet is to get an LS1 in the years that came with the LS6 intake, put in a bigger cam then the LS6 had, and port (or buy ported) heads. MUCH more power then the stock LS6, accessories that fit, and not much cost difference. :)

Awesome, thanks for advice, LS1 it is. What years do you recommend for the LS1? Are there any years to avoid?

Digitalsolo is right about the LS6, which is also true about any Vette motor. The best motor is an 01-02 LS1 from a fbody cause some stuff is updated and they have the LS6 intake manifold and no egr. 99-00 is fine but I'd stay away from the 98s.

Now I'm glad I didn't buy that 98 ls1 I found last night. It is kind of good to have a year to plan everything, although I can't wait to get this thing on the road. Thanks again guys. :D

Is there a good place to find detailed instructions on doing the LS1 swap? I know grannies has one, but is there any more? When I search all I find are people pointing you to torquecentral or this forum, but no one points to actual detailed instructions. Is it really that easy to do the swap? By reading through grannies instructions it seems pretty simple.

I decided to go with the LS1 (01-02). Have you try Hinsonsupercars.com?

I'm definitely going with Hinson for my subframe and a couple other things. I've also thought about sending them my car when the time came (although that definitely seem as fun). I've heard way too many bad things about granny's. But still there isn't any detailed instructions on the swap there. I mean I'm sure I could figure out what I needed to do with the instructions from granny's and pulling bits here and there. I was just seeing if anybody else knew where some other complete instructions were.

Everyone points you to TC cause you can find everything you need there.

A member over there created this page which should get you started.

http://payne.stanford.edu/LS1-FD-links.htm

Oh sweet, well now I feel dumb for never seeing that before. Thanks dude!

What bad things have you heard about the granny's LS1 mount kit? I haven't heard anything bad about theirs.

Then you need to look a little harder. The words Granny's and LS1 shouldn't be mentioned in the same sentence. :p:

Okay...f that then. Is the hinsonsupercars.com one good?

And how bad is the bump steer correction? Is it as bad as grannys makes it seem?

And what exactly does it (bump steer) entail?

In the case of Hinson Supercars' minor steering rack relocation on the subframe, the tie rod ball joint is lengthened and lowered on the spindle to maintain it in the same plane on the spindle with the upper and lower A-arm pick-ups. Factory wheels barely clear it. Check FSM Section N-16 for diagram.

I don't have a copy of the FD FSM. Is there a site where I could get a copy?

Something to think about...

Don't avoid a 98-99 LS1 completely, keep pricing relative. I picked mine up for ~1500-2000 less then going rate. I can afford to do a cam, heads, intake and an LS6 block if I feel like it, for equal the going rate of a typical 01+ LS1.

The plan for my car is to get the LS1 in, get the bugs out, and then start collecting parts for a fully built setup.

Haven't ruled it out completely especially since I always find good deals on 98-99's. What are some of the problems that the 98-99's have though? I think I've read something about oil problems.

98s use a different wiring harness, different pcm, often have oil consumption issues, and the cylinder heads are "notched" so you're limited in what head gaskets you can run.

99-02 motors are basically the same with some subtle changes here and there. Starting '01 they have an ls6 intake (good for about 10hp or so), and some '02s have LS6 blocks. The wiring harnesses and computers are interchangeable (some of the computer tables are different for each year though).

Some 99s have oil consumption issues, mainly due to a poor PCV design. If you convert it to an LS6 style system it usually cleans that up. It cured mine anyways.

Here's some 'bump steer' tech.......http://www.derpca.com/Porscheforme/911Tech6-01.htm

1

As per granny's speed shop site, referring to lowering the steering rack:

We feel this set-up is less than optimal for a street car, as this type of rod end quickly develops slop as they wear, and do not have a pre-loaded design like the OEM ti-rod end to compensate. Another aspect to ponder is that some might consider the race car style rod end to be un-safe or even illegal to be used in this manner on a street car, as it's design allows a worn rod end to fall apart resulting in loss of control. The extended studs used to lower this type of rod end also induces an increased twisting force on the spindle's steering arm, which results in a car that is somewhat easier to knock out of steering alignment when introduced to curbs and potholes. While this type of set-up is common on race cars, even our own, we do not feel it is appropriate for the street. We doubt that any insurance company would knowingly cover a car used on public highways with such a mis-application of steering components.

Does this have any merit at all? Will I have to worry about my tie rod ends disintegrating while driving?

Well, an LS1 isn't going to clear the hood without dropping the steering rack. It's better to bring the geometry back into spec with a tie rod that will wear prematurely than to suffer through bump steer.

As for it disintegrating, I highly doubt it. I've never had a tie rod fail in that manner, and I've been through plenty with the various cars I've had.

I'd take anything you see from Granny's with a grain of slat. Grant doesn't sell a bump steer correcting tie rod, so of course he'll steer (no pun intended) you away from it. He also encourages the use of an FC manual rack, which is halfass IMHO. I haven't personally had any interactions with Grant or his shop (he never returned my phone calls or emails), but what I see isn't all that positive. He seems to be chronically full of shit.

I kind of had a feeling it was like that.

What happens when the tie rod wears out? How would I know when it is time to replace it?

Thanks for all of your advice btw. I'm going to go with the hinsons' mount kit.

just adding my 2cents in here, I went with a 1998 LS1 because I found it for dirt cheap and it was complete. its been on the road in my FC for a good 6 months now and I've had no problems with the motor, no oil consumption issues and the car has seen an autox every week for a month now. I couldn't be happier, especially for the price of $2500 for a full swap with complete motor, trans, clutch, ecu, harness and all of the accessories.

You can say that again. :bigthumb:

You guys can have your LS1's, I have my feelers out for a 6-liter truck block.

Sure it's iron, but it's the same architecture and the iron can handle more abuse... and it'd be easier to find a wrecked truck than a wrecked Camabird or Corvette. And thus cheaper...

Either 6-liter, or the company I work for is developing something "interesting" in the area of Buick V6's.

Good logic.

Like this?

http://www.taperformance.com/V6%20Block%20Flyer.jpg

Maybe I'll have to change my name to 6into7 now =) I do miss the sound of turbo's already =)

Ouch, $3900 just for the block! :eek:

http://www.taperformance.com/pricelist.htm

Check this out. Prices start at about $6,500. :)

http://www.cnblocks.com/info.htm

jim, just read your thread about "Anyone considering a V8 conversion kit from Granny's? " and it really is sad when a kind and patient customer like you gets screwed over. i'm sure you know that he'll get back what he deserves; only time will tell. but your project seems very promising even it's still not yet on the road :p: no pun intended.

and the whole time i was preparing myself in purchasing a kit from granny's. thanks for the heads up. :bigthumb:

now that granny's is busted, who am i going to turn to to help me accomplish my future project? hinson's perhaps?

Similar, but stronger. And not as expensive. I don't know what I am at liberty to say, maybe have said too much as it is. :) It won't be aluminum, though - as I understand it, those TA blocks are illegal for many classes because of that.

For now, though, we have some killer rotating assemblies and billet main caps and other "goodies" for the turbo six crowd. Hmm, maybe I *should* just go with a "Buick" engine for the FC, repaint the car blue and gold, the whole works. :)