Cool project
I like the way simplified twin turbos look

i like your project. great, thorough work.

I'll see your gold UIM and raise you a gold LIM.

^ I raise to large single turbo:lol:

Decent build thread.

=Benjamin

Thank you for the rear turbo pipe pictures!!!

Interesting about the coolant hose bracket. One would imagine Greddy would make a bracket to adapt to the stock engine bay parts. Personally, I think it's cool there is a bracket for the coolant hose. I guess you could drill a new hole?

Looking good!

....You just let me know when and where...you know im game.. ;)

.....and yes it is a FEED replica..from Shine....

-Jack

Skip the Greddy duct, it's useless. I haven't had success using that for alignment either. I cut the stock duct down to the middle of the air inlet hole cutout (2+ inches), installed it back on the car & ensured that it aligned up with the a/c dryer, then bolted up the intercooler & did fabrication work around that. Remove the coolant hose bracket, bolt up the intercooler to the hole on the right.

:bowdown:

haha yeah that's on my list for the next time i've got the turbos out...well, that or one of those turblown lim jackets...

lol with all this heat wrapping going on, we need to get afgmoto in this thread with his almost entirely gold wrapped engine bay

Hey man, looks great. Never seen the silver/gold foil on the UIM, that's a great idea. One thing I noticed after looking at your pics: if you're nonsequential, you can remove the pressure chamber (the black box that sits right in front of the UIM, has two vacuum lines coming out on the driver's side), precontrol/wastegate control solenoids (mounted as a pair on the UIM), and the metal vac rack that goes down towards the turbos where the actuators are. You can probably put them up for sale and make some money back too :) Also, you don't need any of the solenoids on the rats nest (unless you want to keep your pressure regulator control, you eliminated your ACV so the relief and switching solenoids can get tossed, your EGR was eliminated too), you can take the whole thing out (the metal rack, solenoids, etc. just cap off any open nipples on the intake mani). You'll end up with a bunch of unconnected harness connectors... you may want to wrap those up with some heat resistant tape. The branch of the harness that has all of the rack solenoid clips, you can tuck that behind your fuel lines (sit it on top of the tranny) if you want to open up the space under the UIM a little more... you can also remove the charge control valve (the BOV in the rear) and cap off that hole, it could be the source of a boost leak if it fails and you don't need it.

EDIT: I noticed that you have a Profec boost controller, if you have that controlling the wastegate you can eliminate the precontrol/wastegate control solenoids.

Thanks for the tips mdpalmer, wasn't aware that most of that could be deleted.. I'll have to keep that in mind next time I remove the UIM...

Is the primary BOV enough on it's own to relieve all the pressure in the Y-pipe? They both seem to be functional so I don't see any harm in keeping them both.

Here's a writeup you can check out on full non-seq conversion: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ov_nonseq.html The CRV is only there to allow pre-spooled secondary turbo boost pressure to vent, and you don't have the prespooling/sequential setup so don't need it. The vac signal to the CRV is controlled by the charge relief solenoid which you don't need either... Here's a good description of how the control system works if you're curious:

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...erOverview.htm

As far as the primary BOV (aka air bypass valve, ABV, in mazda literature) being enough to relive pressure on its own, I haven't had a problem with mine yet. The real issue is that it doesn't leak under boost... if you're running 15 psi you may want to get an aftermarket one if you're paranoid. I don't think the stock one was designed to handle more than 14 psi with regular boosting, but that's a wild guess...

Aaaand were back...

While hunting for a shop that had a bead roller dye large enough to do nearly 3" pipe I decided to continue with the thermal barrier and wrap the bottom of the IC that sits over the radiator and near the coolant hose:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0486.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0489.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0491.jpg

SMIC installed in it's modified location w/ modified air duct:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0492.jpg

Just how far off the SMIC was from the 'prefered' mount:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0493.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0499.jpg

After talking to numerous shops that either wanted to weld a bead on the pipe or cut the ends off and reweld them on, I decided to just push forward and get the car moving again, so I devised a plan re-using the stock accordian piece with the included Trust elbow:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0494.jpg

More shots of the modified stock duct w/ the modified Greddy duct:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0495.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0496.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0497.jpg

In the end, the car went back together without too many hiccups and ran like a champ. Profect B showed peaks of 13.7 psi with the ultra-restrictive catback still on the car. I couldn't stand looking at the stock airbox anymore and got some flack for having it on, so I tossed on the ARC airbox, untill it sells of course ;)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...c/IMG_0500.jpg

Next on the adjenda, HKS RS intakes and a free-flowing catback, then some dyno time.

Where can I bye some of this heat protective rap for my seven? Thanks

What ECU is currently in the car?

Apexi Power FC

Custom SMB exhaust showed up yesterday, and I'm super impressed. The welds on this thing are pretty epic for a one-off, they look better then most production welds I've seen.
Oh and thanks Fedex for showing up at 5pm and not letting me get tuned **shakes fist**

Now I have a true 3" system (GReddy downpipe, custom catless midpipe and SMB custom catback)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...t/IMG_0501.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...t/IMG_0502.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...t/IMG_0503.jpg

Installed:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...t/IMG_0504.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...t/IMG_0506.jpg

I'll get some daylight pics w/ video up shortly. Tone resembles the Blitz system I used to have on my WRX, nice and deep tone with no raspyness.

I dig the exhaust! Nice car, seems like a quality build so far!

I don't mean to sound like an idiot, but what is the purpose of using heat tape underneath the Extension Manifold? Is there some kind of advantage, or does it prevent something from happening? :scratch:

Used to prevent heatsoak of the bottom of the manafold

Video times:

SMB Exhaust mounted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDb3I7Ktot0

Dyno Pulls (Read info on video for explanation):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gq1T2_gz6tY

Video of the engine torque damper working:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74JUfvtRoT4

In the Torque brace video, was someone playing with compressed air, or was that noise coming from the motor? Does anyone else hear that? Could that be a vacuum/boost leak?


Other than that, car sounds great!

I hear it too. Seems strange that the noise goes away with higher RPMs. Either that or the engine/exhaust is drowning out the hiss......

That exhaust is sick!

wow.... very nice exhaust!!!