462 cubic inch big block chevy in a 1987 turbo 2 fc
 

Well im on my way with my big block fc the full size big block radiator is almost mounted .this is a tall order because just the basic radiator is wider than the frame rails minus the mounting brackets .also the over all length of the big block requires that there be at least 32 inches from the firewall to the front of the water pump.another problem is the brake booster -its in the way as well .the power brake issue is not an option -they are a must .so to solve this i will be mounting a vanco remote pump master and slave cylinder under the dash (oh did i mention there is no heat or air now ) dont need them this car will be street legal but not a daily driver.the tranny is a m-22 muncie 4 speed that will fit fine -my last one with a small block had an m-21-----anyone that has any good input on a big block in an fc would be helpfull ---thanks-jason

Why not use a hydraboost for the brake master? That should get you the clearance you need. I'd expect you'll want power steering with a big heavy sucker like that over the wheels.

I'm not a huge fan of the big block FC swaps, but definitely post up some pics if you get a clean setup figured out.

thats the unit im going to get its a vanco unit but its mega expensive ---1300.00 bucks!and i was thinking of using a seperate 3 line unit like or another rx7 pump to power the pump in the vanco unit-the funny thing is the front air dam i made for it bolts up in the farthest front bolt holes they look even side to side but the frame rail on the passengers side is 5/8 taller than the drivers side so i made a bar that overlaps its self by 5/8 and made the rest of the dam out of 1/8 6061 with a gusset to the across bar .the frame had to be cut an inch in on a side to make room for the tanks on the big block rad. the rad.has an original molded shrowd and is a super common radiator 67-68 big block camaro radiator (4 speed no cooler in tanks)i will be making rubber isolators for the bottom rail on the radiator the frame for the rad. drops down even with the air dam .----------the only thing i dont like is that in this placement the radiator will be through the hood ---honestly its 19 inches tall by 29 inches long tank to tank!! big rad for a big engine.this also means that the hood latch is gone . but i have plenty of time and a full machine shop at my disposal.the hood scoop will be made of 6061 1/8 so it wont warp and the front will have air scoops to push air to the top of the radiator.....ill keep pecking at it --thanks for the interest ......jason

also the difference in weight between a cast iron small block and a cast iron big block isnt that much ---small block is 550fully dressed and a big block is 685 not a huge weight difference --my last one was a .060 over 327 cam geardrive headers performer rpm high rise fair .194 intake valve heads(around 325 horse(guess) the 462 thats going in this car is no guess 464 h.p.at 5800 rpm and 500 ft pounds of torque at 4200---and it has plenty of room to grow on

oh one other thing ----the ls7 is not a big block its an alum.small block that they put in the z06 corvette and from what i have seen and heard -im going to stay away from those.-i hear and have seen that if you try to get too much h.p. out of one that the block breaks off at the rear where the bellhousing bolts on ! i always use a scatter shield and a block saver but i also stick to the old school stuff .the z06 vette engine is suppose to be rated at 550 h.p.-the main reason i wanted to build mine is to have a ton of low end power and not have to wind the motor to 6500 or better to get the power and because ive never seen one in an fc rx7(well one )it was a cobbled up drag car that some one cut up the sub frame to fit the motor in .its all in what a person likes and i know this site is very pro rotory--jason

well lets see the lower radiator support is almost done -all made out of alum.now i need to redo the upper support by adding back to the braces that were just inside the top channell that use to run across the front -now its removed because the radiator is above it (19 inches by 29 inch radiator) so i will square out this opening and rebrace back down to the frame as well as make a mount for the top of the shroud --when i get the radiator support top and bottom done i will post a picture of it---jason

well now im on to the mounts for the radiator for the bottom -has anyone else on here ever put a real big block chevy in an fc before? its not goin too bad so far i must say but im not to the oil pan scattershield to the tranny tunnel does it clear part yet. that will be the worst hurdle i can see so far.-----------any input besides why -or dont do that to a mass produced car comments----jason

bbc!
 

I don't have to ask why I get it. I want to see a pic or two.

well i havent taken any pictures yet . got the lower mounts for the rad. made .i left an inch for the the harness for the horn and the 5 or so relays ---dont really like that kind of gap under there i know i have to have some space to fit the wires but i think ill work the horn and relays in while i shorten the gap to a min. as well as use 2 rubber isolators to keep any vibration from the radiator. i will have to fill any gap thats left after the wires are run to keep all the air i can going thru the rad.not around it .doesnt take much time to make the parts its all the the time to engineer them that takes the time...oh well i keep moving forward -jason

well the lower radiator mounts are done on to the uppers . for this i will be opening up the 4 holes that are close to the front bumper mounts(like 3 inches away)originally they are not thru the frame rails and almost impossible to get to with a drill(with the headlight assy.on the car ---so i turned up a set of washers that fit inside the holes and transfer punched thru them to make an on center place to ceter drill them then used a die grinder to open them up just so a small shoulder is left .this morning i will make 4--- 1/2 thick spuds that have a 1/4 20 tapped hole in them and weld them in. this will make a place so i can make brakets to attach the upper radiator mounts . i will not post a picture until the radiator is completely mounted and the front upper shroud is done.-jason

well over the weekend i got started on the upper supports for the big block radiator -and being the fact that there is only 2 inches on each side clearing the tanks of the radiator +the fact that the mounts on the radiator are 8 inches up from the frame i made the supports out of 1/4 6061 alum. they are just 90 degrees right now bolted together at the bottom with 4 #4-40 82degree screws-in the corners i will support them with a gusset made of the same -this also acts as an air dam to keep air from going around the radiator.i will be using expanding boat plugs with a square like a carrage bolt molded into them as the vibration isolators between the mounting flange for the radiator and the alum.brackets.......seems like im talking to my self on here i know but im getting there slowly...jason

not talking to yourself
 

I'm listening.

it all takes time +have to work for a living as well -but i did get the upper braces in place and the rubber mounts sized up .just need to build the gussets for them now -im tryin to stay on the light side to keep the weight down -going to make my own strut braces for the front and rear as well -it would do no good to buy them as the big block will sit higher and is also huge compared to the rotory--kinda sucks that the speakers are right on top of where the brace will go in the rear-still have 2 high dollar items to get -the grannys 8.8 rear for it (3200.00)and a hydro boost remote brake booster master and slave all in one(over a grand) do you have a car in the works?--jason

I have an 88 gtu. I plan on putting the small block 355 thats in my 77 nova into my rx7. I havent started yet but it will happen. When the small block comes out of the nova I will put a big block in it. I haven't started yet because both cars run and need other stuff done. Right now im working on the rx7's sunroof.

post pics

Seems like an interesting build, I'm in for pics when you get them!

i dont even own a digital camera yet -funny thing is i bought my daughter a 300.00 nikon -should get one soon i guess.---obese i made sure i got an extra 454 to test fit what i have going on ---the pan is going to be the major hurdle -wish i could get those ball and socket headers like i used on my last v-8 rx they work great perfect fit!it was a 327 4 speed car-sold it to my brother and after all the beatin i did to that car the very first time he took it to the drag strip he snapped the axle like a twig -and that thing has no where near the h.p. and torque my 462 has. hopefully i should get the braces done by the weekend ...and i want to do a lot more beefin up of the area still...the hood latch is going to go back in front of the radiator so it needs more support.......jason

Thats an ambitious project. I wish I was not so lazy.

ive seen one other fc with a big block -drag car small radiator ------thats why i started with the radiator -as big as i could reasonably fit in there-and bracing the front of the car so that i canmake sure the car doesnt twist.because no guy is ever happy with how much horsepower the car has after a while he always wants more .helps to have a machineshop to make my own parts .i want to use every stud thats on the strut towers and wheel wells to brace the car all i can .this car is going to take quite a bit longer than the last one--jason

well i have one upper radiator support bracket almost done -came out very light and strong -its a good thing because im going to be attaching a bar that runs across the the other side -in the middle of that bar will be where the hood latch will be re-attached .another benifit of this bar will be that it will connect to where the rubber bumpers are at (very front of rad. support) to provide side to side support as well as the latch+cover that will be by means of a 1/8 flat plate of 6061 then to the same plate and bar will be a double 90 degree angle to attach the stock shroud for the 68-69 camaro bg block radiator .after thats fit i will box the rest of that area in with 6061 to conform to the basic shapes in square form with more #4-40 screws or #6-32 screws.--------back at it --jason

should get the last pc.drilled and tapped today for the upper rad. brackets (took a lil longer than i thought )but it does go better when ya have fixed points .only 2 more holes after that and the entire radiator will be in its place! hopefully this weekend i will get to run into town and find a pc of square alum. to hold the hood latch and tie the upper radiator brackets together.more to come ...........jason

This would make a lot more sense if there where a few pics. Pick yourself up a camera wile you are in town. Did you say what you are going to do about the rear end?

What are you going to do with the rear end? Iv seen people put a solid rear end but always wondered how they bolted it up. anyways I wanna see pictures please!!

ya i know i should get one (a camera that is)--i know im going to need to upgrade the rear but i believe ill get it going first before i drop the 3000.00 on the 8.8-go to grannys web site to see how the rear goes in ---it retains the brakes and the struts and the brace that bolts to the rear prevents the wheel hop.------got the other upper radiator bracket done.2 more holes and no more clamps to hold it in!!!----getting there

I think this is bad ass, completely crazy, but bad ass.

ok im a novice on the digital camera thing --so i need a memory card? is that all ?i bought my kid a new nikon and she gave me her old one that i also bought--bought 2 never even used one --go figure?----im going to try to put some pictures on here in the next few days----the radiator is mounted and shes in there like a brick shit house.about time almost 2 damm months!! geesh!

ask your daughter to help you, if your computer already has a spot to insert the memory card then that's all you'll need, otherwise you'll need a cable to connect your camera to your computer. Then use a sight like photobucket or flikr to upload your pictures and use the [img] photo name [/img] code to post them here.

I'm excited bout those pics. You just put the memory card in the slot on your pc or it may use a mini usb cord. It would be confusing if you have never used one and did not have the instructions. KKMpunkrock2011 has the right idea. I am real curious to see how that stock rear likes the big block.

me no ansel adams
 

well heres a few pictures i have no clue why some seem fuzzy and others are clear ---first time as a budding ansel adams----not!----waiting for the paint to dry on the radiator before i take a picture of that ---keepin at it---jason

more pictures of the start of the 1987 rx7 fc 462 cubic inch big block car
 

well i hope that im getting the hang of the whole picture thing -not as bad as i thought--jason---still dont know how to look at them before i put them on here in the attach part of the post ----i guess i should keep up with the times more and break out of hermit mode----jason

something will give
 

im real sure that the stock turbo 2 rear will be no match for the 500 foot pounds of torque at 4200 that my 462 puts out -but im going to give it a whirl anyways -no solid mounts on the diff.of rear subframe makes for some heavy wheel hop ill bet ---my last car was a 1987 gxl with a .06 over 327 muncie 4 speed gear drive big cam performer rpm intake headers --some goodies--but ill say a max of 330 h.p. -i beat on that car pretty good on the street and sold it under protest to my brother (he had to have it) soon as he ran it down cordovadragway one time that skimpy rear in that one gave in to the vht. and snapped an axle and broke off the drive right off into the the diff.on the drivers side.--jason

the blue one was your last car and the white one is your current one correct?

there's a few reasons why your pictures come out blurry. As I'm sure you're using a cheap (relatively speaking) point and shoot camera I'll stick to why those turn out blury.
1) the camera can't focus on a specific part because it's either zoomed in too far or the camera is simply too close.
2) not enough light, when there's not enough light the part that actually takes the picture stays open longer to allow more light to pass and when it stays open longer it is more susceptible to movement. Movement creates the blur

ya the blue one was my last one --and i think ya might be on the money about the camera --it has a night setting (its an ez share kodak i think)and i like cars and parts too much to spend anymore on a better one .ill talk nice to it and hope i get more clear pictures .--it does the job for now ---going to try to get my pc of alum.for in front of the rad.today for the latch and to hold the shroud .have to make brackets for the horn +see if the relays that go in front of the radiator clear that bar i will be making and a pc to block air from going under tha radiator.(there is a gap under the radiator for the relays and the horn wires)

holy crap thats a gorgeous rad mount. I'm a little jealous of your shop. I am glad you posted pics now and I can make sense of what you are up to. I have never seen a big block fc this is exciting.

well the place i get my alum.was finally open today --not 100 percent sure i like what i got -but im sure ill use it .i was thinking 1 by for the cross mount for the latch and shroud but i want it to be tight to the shape of the area in front of the radiator -the 1/4 by 4in angle will be handy for the shroud (planning on cutting away as much as possible )the shroud is attached on the bottom and only one bolt hole on the top .----ill take a picture with the radiator soon ..........where theres a will theres a way ---otherwise ill make it fit!----jason

Damn nice man things seem to be coming along nicely.

well heres the radiator that ate up 2 months so far of my time-all bolted in -next is the brace in front of the radiator for the latch and a bracket for the shrouds as well as a cover for that area-------ive have the idea of how the man brace is going to go in there just have to start millin and drillin------i hope the latch handle will work out cutting the handle off and shortening it because its going to be moved forward quite a bit---and the hook has to be moved as well ---jason

geesh some of those pictures suck and man am i cheap (unless its a car part of course)-might have to look for a better one.

well i got the cross bar for in front of the radiator done now i just have to figure out how to mount the latch for the hood and move the bail forward-should get interesting---ill look for a new camera this weekend ----jason

well got the latch in there -had to revise the bar some and add a lot more support to it --getting a lil closer -also have been looking at better cameras---jason

any update?

working on the latch for the hood right now and the crossbar that holds it -i believe there will be enough room to move the striker forward on the hood -im going to replace it with a shouldered stripper bolt (like what is used on die sets)its within .004 of the original diameter -still havent got a better camera yet--the latch has been moved 5 inches forward and it just clears the area that the relays use to bolt to in the front(moving them as well)--ill get some pictures up of that as soon as im happy with it.............jason

still workin on the latch area --most of the time spent so far has been building supports and milling pockets and blocks to go inside of the 1 inch 6061 square 1/8 wall material that runs across to the latch ---the original sheet metal up front in that area isnt stiff enough for me so im going to attach off of the bumper brackets back to the radiator braces (the up rights in the picture)has to be very heavy duty to make me happy+not weigh a ton............jason-----

I love your project!

But I have to disagree with that rumor of the block breaking. While it's not as strong as an ironblock, you're still going to make a ton of power before the block has problems in an LSx motor.

Also, I don't mind winding my motor out, it's such a light car it just feels like you've got torque everywhere in the powerband.

stunt man mike ---that movie is something else !(deathproof)----i cant and wont slam the rotory engines -if it wasnt for them then the car wouldnt be here to put the big block in it .also i have seen a video of a car on you tube with a rotory that when it launched it look like it jumped in the air!to each is own -i just like light cars with a ton of power -too bad it takes so long to build em.--------jason

Oh, no I think you got the wrong idea, I have an LS1 in my car.

ya i saw that (that yours has an ls1)--but even if it had a 500 caddy engine in it i have respect for anyone that goes for more power or something way off the beaten path-my last one had a muncie and a small block -gear drive highrise and ya it was fast but are they ever fast enough? i like the rx7 body and the way they handle -im sure that 685 pounds of big block will cut into the handling a wee bit -but the big block only weighs 165 pounds more than a cast iron small block -im sure the ls1 is much lighter -i seem to always take the road untraveled -built many cars always weird--i should put more pictures on here i guess(some people dont like to read )---looks like a really nice car(yours)-- i think im going to shell out the rear in mine soon after getting it going --i even looked at a jag the other day (for the rear) thank god im a machinist or i could never build the cars that i do.....jason

working on a mechanism to operate the latch hook right now as the original handle was too long and hit the bracket for the relays -that has been cut off and im now using the other side -looked thru a book i have (507 mechanical movements by henery t brown)---old ass book.-came up with circular motion to linear motion linkage --in other words -made a block out of 7075 bored a hole thru it and made a naval brass 2 inch diameter wheel with a 3/8 bearing diameter next i will make 2 studs that are 180 degrees apart one that will push the latch with a 1/2 by 1/4 alum.arm and one that i will attach to operate the mechanism -i believe that the fact on a radius with 2 movable points and one fixed point that the mechanism will operate freely as the diameter will have the needed gain not to bind-still need to figure out the travel of the pins (have to know the diameter the pins are placed in to know the cercumferance that they will travel )---i guess i like to make things difficult?--oh i got the cross bar hooked up to the front nose support over the weekend and it came out very strong and cool looking .

ok i got the latch mechanism working need to attach one more bar to it and the handle to operate it -then cover the top of the support on the passengers side ---i might take a picture of it soon ---(next 2 weeks) workin overtime and tryin to get something done on the car isnt easy -----jason

i guess the one more bar wasnt good enough for me --if i were to do that then the second half of the mechanism would be on top of the cover of the radiator support - i have now decided that i want it on the underside for a clean look ---so now making a mechanism that will push pull on a right angle with a bar on a 45 degree angle to move a block on one side of the angle and the other at the same time .--jason