I had my FC back to the dyno yesterday to see where its at with the stock intercooler. Mods: streetported S4 TII block, bnr stage 3, haltech e6k, 3" RB exhaust, 3" intake, ported throttle body, with stock intercooler. this run was at 15 psi




Intake temps were getting up to about 140F, before we put the ice on. with some ice on the intercooler, temps dropped to about 120F, but still didnt gain much power. Power also didnt change much when increasing boost above 12psi, it was at 290whp at 12psi. The stock IC does give you a better torque curve i suppose


Just for comparison, I had it dyno'd a while back at 12psi and made 308whp with a FMIC setup with 2.5" piping, the only other difference was stock ports:

 

Just wondering, why did you put the TMIC back on and only run the bnr stage 3 at 12psi on the stock ports?

I have a FMIC with 2.5" piping hoping and I just bought a bnr stage 2 with stock porting. I'm hoping to make 260 rwhp on a Dyno dynamics (300 on a Dynojet)

 

with fmic the afrs look leaner, almost too lean on the top end or is it me?

either then that good job.

 

respectable numbers. ill be getting my BNR 3 soon as well.

 

btw what were the ambient temps on that day?

 

ambient temps were 50-60F. The AFRs were leaner with the FMIC because it was back when i was still running the RTEK 2.1, and was pretty much maxing out 750/1000cc injectors. Im now running 1600cc secondaries with the haltech so plenty of fuel.

I want to try to keep a tmic setup to just for simplicity and i like how it makes the engine look stock. im going to try putting together a custom core, larger with bigger inlet and outlet

 

Good numbers. You could run AI to bring the IATs down if you want to keep the stock IC.

 

good numbers and looks smoother as well

 

that's what i've been searching for for the past few days...someone running a stock looking motor with some JUICE! i've been thinkin stage3 and 4*1000's with Rtek2.1.... and supporting mods.

but i want to be sneaky. look stock but run 280-300rwhp

very NICE!

 

Bump from the past :P

How much advance were you running?

James

 

15 advance, 12 split

 

Thanks for the reply!

Just trying to figure out timing...

I'm guessing you are running that advance / split from like 4k to redline and in the boost?

James

 

its tapered down to about 30 degrees at redline at 0 psi and then retards across the board as rpms drop. I think i have the timing map in .doc posted in the rtek section somewhere

 

So you were having problems with the Rtek or did you just upgrade to the Haltec for the hell of it? Im about to get a stage3 and an Rtek 2.1 720/720, Hoping this will work out alright.

 

15 advance and 12 split is a really common setup. The OP and i have had some discussion in the rtek subforum about timing. I would not recommend that he he add any more timing than that if he's using the stock intercooler.

I've never been able to pick up much power on unleaded gas from fiddling with timing on cars that already had decent timing maps. I've done it on nonturbos (87 octane), sequential twin turbo FD's (93), and my single turbo s4 on 100 unleaded. A couple degrees of leading or split change never made more than 2 or 3 hp difference, but again I've never tried it on 110 or C16. I usually ran in the 10-15 degree range on turbo cars and on that nonturbo I was rotating the CAS a few degrees back before you could get an Rtek 2.1

The only thing I ever noticed on the FD was that changing split had a huge effect on knock readings. the Power FC basemap had like 6-8 degrees split and retarding it to about 11-12 helped a lot.

 

i really liked the rtek, its ease of use is great for learning how to tune. the main problem i had with it was i needed bigger injectors, and staging 1600's wasnt working out with the rtek

one main difference i did notice was that the afrs were a LOT smoother with the haltech. i think the afm is inaccurate at higher air flow rates, i suppose the S4 flapper is not very steady

 

sorry to bring this thread back to life, but this thread correlates directly to what I'm trying to figure out. Everyone says that the TMIC tops out at 12psi, is that because of the air temps (which can be lowered with AI) or because of some sort of limiting air flow?

 

Air temps. Front mounts have a higher pressure drop than the stock top mount setup.

 

thats why i only ran 12psi on the fmic.. i think my core didnt flow very well and had trouble making any more than about 12 psi. im now running an ARC tmic which flows better than the stocker, intake temps are about 20-30F cooler, but only if you are at speed. Its getting tuned by steve kan next month, so ill have some better numbers then.

 

post up your results when u get them if u can!

 

302whp at 15psi, mustang dyno, 800 ft elevation. intake temps got up to 180F, but on the street ive never seen it above 130F with the ARC. its an improvement over teh stock IC, but not much. steve was able to get a much better torque curve, and spool is crazy fast.. unfortunately the shop didnt have a printer and i dont have a plot

 

Do you have an engine bay pic? I'd like to see the ARC top mount.

 

Nice, 300 is respectible. I'm getting mine tuned today by KDR, but I have a BNR stage 4 and a FMIC. Hoping for at least 70 RWHP over that with minimal lag. This is my first time going with a stage 4, in another car I had a stage 2 and I was making 261 RWHP tuned by RP.

 

how come i here so many different numbers with the bnr hybrid turbo ive seen numbers and been told by brian that a stage 1 with an rtek and a good tune should get me 300 hp with the supporting mods how come guys are just hittin that with a stage 3? stage 4's hit 400hp im a lil confused??

 

too many factors involved to give an hp number. what works alright on one setup works better on another and shitty on another.